O2 V11

Thanks for the reply Carl. There is something amiss with the sender. Since posting my enquiry I have fuelled up and been for an 80 mile ride. Having at least half a tank left the sender should show no resistance (open), but it reads zero ohms. When I put the tank back on the first time I tucked the connector from the harness out of harms way under the tank. I thought if it doesn't work why connect it back up! Next time I have the tank off I'll attempt to illuminate the bulb the way you suggested. Thanks for that. Another query, when I went to your rehosted schematic page I couldn't see the link to the V11 wiring diagram, is it just a case of my not wearing my glasses again? Rob

My low fuel light has never worked from day one. When using a multi meter what if any reading should I get at the two pin connector under the tank when disconnected? or must this connector be joined to the main wiring loom to get any reading? The wires leading into this connector are grey and black and they come from the low fuel level sensor, l/h side of the tank. At the moment I have done 160 miles on the tank so the fuel light would be glowing if it was operative. Failing this, any other pointers as to what I should check, other than the obvious. To take the instrument panel apart and check the bulb and connections? Rob

big J. I'd guess your a bit peeved. Spending all that hard earned and not getting the results expected. I would have thought there was a map that was suitable for your mods. What map was supplied with the PC?. Did you sync your throttle bodies at both idle and at about 3000rpm? It took me quite a while to get mine right. After setting my TPS I used the airbleed screws to get a consistent vacuum at idle, then the adjuster on the throttle linkage to get the same result at about 3000rpm. What are your valve clearances? If they are too tight this can cause problems. It can only get better after a re-map on the dyno. Good luck. Rob

Mike, when my bike was new my fast idle even after I swapped the springs around was barely 2000rpm. I tried adjusting the cable to increase the pull but it was not successful. I cut a piece of rubber hose and put it over the whatsit that contacted the cam. This took my fast idle up to about 2500rpm. Since adjusting my TPS setting and throttle body sync when I fitted my PC my fast idle now sits around 3500rpm. You can see what I did in the attached pic. Rob

Richard, when I removed my rear wheel I took it off in one piece with the bevel box. I dropped the brake caliper (6mm allen key) which made it easier to remove the wheel assembly. I left the torque arm on the bike, undoing it at the bevel box. The hex key for the axle is 14mm, it should be all in your toolkit. I hope this is of some help. Rob

helicopterjim, we demand audio, video the lot. We haven't seen or heard much of your MGS01. Anything we should know? Rob

anawrocki, I would have to echo rachethack's posting on the temperature of the bevel drive after the change to synthetic. Initially mine felt more hot than warm to touch. Now it only feels a little warmer than the rear tyre itself, quite an amazing difference. Your valve clearances of 0.01 and 0.15mm are the "world specs" I referred to in a previous posting. I shouldn't think you should have any problems with them at these settings. Did you check your TPS setting and balance your throttle bodies as well? Rob

Your list of mods sounds good. When completed any chance of posting an audio clip so we can hear how good it sounds? Rob

A good result there AJ, interesting to see all 3 runs only took a couple of minutes to complete. Not as much pain for the bike as I imagined. Can't wait to see your next results. Rob

Richard, it likes a 1100 Sport or Centauro type crossover to me. I don't know if it fits a V11 or not. Best of luck. Rob

It's alright Antonio I'll get this back on topic. By virtue of this forum's postings being dominated by Americans, I guess you could call it as have being become Americanised. I come here to view and share thoughts, experiences and feelings about our Moto Guzzi motorcycles with other like minded people. This I enjoy a lot. This forum to me is invaluable as our V11's are very thin on the ground in my part of the world. Being able to share my experiences, ask dumb questions, and hopefully answer a few, in order to help fellow MG owners where ever in the world they are is good for me. If it happens most of these people hail from the US that's just the way it is. I enjoy anyone's honest input about their MG experiences. Not personally knowing any other members you have to take all postings as you find them. It is always good to get the European perspective which has resulted in some tasty bike pics being posted as everyone's views on customising their bikes differ. One day I'll probably shock the mainstream with my bike I guess. It doesn't matter to me if anyone's English is not the best. It's not important at all, what matters is we are all sharing our Moto Guzzi interests with each other. The more the merrier. Okay, I just had to get that off my chest, I don't enjoy topics that go off course at all... Rob

Group 7 V241. Made in USA by Purolator. These has worked well for me. If I bought the original UFI they would probably cost me more than the oil. Rob

Great work Jason, a couple of issues for consideration. There was no mention of an '03 model. This is a problem child. With MG selling bikes like mine, the leftover '02 models but designated as 2003 models, as indicated by the number 3 in their VIN. Then following on with the "real" 2003 models, upgraded with the satin engine paint, ITI clocks and the front crossover, new pistons etc. I have also noticed several postings regarding speedo drive issues, is this worth inclusion as well? Rob

anawrocki, to start with I would change the fork oil now. One of mine had come apart inside the fork leg and other owners had found all sorts of crud in theirs from new. But that is not to say there would be anything wrong with yours. The use of a high quality synthetic oil in the gearbox and bevel drive has it's merits. My bevel drive runs noticeably cooler now since I changed mine to synthetic. The colour of the bevel drive oil would be due to the moly added to the oil. Those who use Redline oil don't generally add any moly to the bevel drive but I did. You said your head studs were mostly in spec, one of mine was little more than finger tight so there is a great variation in how our bikes were put together. Did you use "world specs" for you valve clearances? When I did my first service I greased both mounts of the rear shock, these are dry leaving the factory. It doesn't hurt to grease your driveshaft as well. MG are pretty shy when it comes to lubrication during assembly. I found the torque arm mounting bolts to be the only loose fittings on the bike. The service interval is your choice, I'm sure everyone has a differing opinion of what is right or wrong for their bikes. Enjoy, these bikes improve with age. Mine has 3000 miles on and just keeps getting smoother. Rob

Mike try this, this is the response I got when I posted a query regarding TPS setting for a PC with a stock map. I followed Mr Bean's posting and it worked for me. Hope it helps. Rob

Sorry guys, I messed up and multiple posted this so it has lost it's target. What I have is a bug inside my speedo. This is all this posting was about initially. The "screen" came from my initial posting which has since been deleted, about Luigi leaving the screen off the moisture transfer port which allowed this bug to get inside my speedo. Needless to say one advantage of a LCD screen would be is that there is no place for a "pillion" to reside. Rob

Yesterday I went for nearly 300 mile ride. I was trundling along taking in the scenery at about 70mph when I caught up on a couple of bikes in front. As I got closer I could hear what one of them was, needless to say his life was being saved. His mate on the Beull wasn't much quieter. As the pair had slowed and the lead bike wobbled round a corner with his bicycle tyre wide front wheel I took that as my cue to get out of there. I dropped it down a couple of gears and gave it to it. I was looking at a huge straight piece of road in front of me and I kept the throttle pinned. I had run it up to 6000 before but it hit the wall at 7000 and ever so slowly creeped up to 7200 rpm, an indicated 135 mph. Using a gearing table I found on Guzzitech and the tyre sizing off the Bridgestone website, assuming the tacho is correct I should have been doing 128 mph. I had a laugh to myself as the guy had a personalised plate HOGET, a hogget is a year old sheep. Looking at him with his tasseled jacket he certainly looked like a sheep shagger to me. Can anyone tell me, does the fitting of a open lid airbox and less restrictive exhausts enable these bikes to redline in 6th or is my top speed about the best they can do? Mine is stock with just under 3000 miles on the clock but is fitted with a PC. Rob

Ben, it makes more sense with a pic attached... Rob

Can anyone give me some input about the Ventura Bike-Pack system? Good, bad or indifferent. Waterproof or not? how do you rate them? As these are made here in N.Z. they are an option which I can buy local. For $500 I can get the whole system. The "L" brackets, the pack frame, sports rack and passenger grab handle. As well as a 45 litre pack and the 10 litre sport pack. Thanks, Rob

richard100t, I see you must have bought a vacuum gauge to fix your throttle body imbalance. I would like to share my experiences. When I had to do my own 1000 mile service I did not have anything that resembled a carb stick or twinmax. I did a search on the subject and came across IanJ's posting and made my own manometer. When my bike was new the fast idle lever would only rev it up to about 2000 rpm. I found this a little low so I put a bit of rubber tubing over the whatsit that contacted the cam thingy. The end result was a fast idle speed of 2500 rpm. But now after setting my TPS, valves etc I have a fast idle speed of up to 3500 rpm and no it doesn't work as cruise control. But it is a bonus when adjusting my throttle body balance as it gives me a consistent throttle application. I just move the lever until the revs reach 3000 rpm and then adjust the air bleed screws to get the vacuum right. Return to idle, adjust if necessary. Repeating everything until I'm happy with the settings. See attached pic of the "whatsit" Rob

Dan, go with your heart. Be it a used '01 or a new '03 whatever you buy you won't be disappointed. Any MG has a few quirks and foibles, anyone here will vouch for that. There is something special about owning a new bike, but at the same time the run in period is a lot higher, up to 10,000 miles some have said. Mine has 2,500 on the clock and is still getting smoother. Buying a used bike would be a plus as it would be at it's best when you take delivery. There is one on Ebay now for example, a 2001 V11 Sport with all the mods you would ever need and it's green for only $4500 which is past it's reserve. Moto Guzzi's are very unique, capable bikes with character that sets them apart from the rest. Being so user friendly for servicing is another big plus, good luck with your subsequent decision making and purchase. Rob

Mike, Let's hope Mrs Stewart doesn't limit you to 3 bikes now that she is only allowed 3 pairs of shoes !!. Congrats, looks good, how are you going to register it? Rob

When I changed my oil I measured in 3500ml including the oil filter fill. Now when I check the oil level, I do it before I start the bike. I unscrew the dipstick with the bike still on the sidestand and check the level against what it was after it's oilchange. The bike is always parked in the same spot so the only thing that can change is the oil level which hasn't for the last 1000 miles. My oil sits about 10mm above the high mark but checking the oil level the correct way after having run it for a while and the bike vertical it is on the high mark. It doesn't matter to me what method is used, as long as it's done the same way, same place every time so the only variation if any, is the amount of oil in your sump. Rob

I was wondering what models have the mesh cover over their oil coolers. I was looking at Nogbad's Sunday morning posting and his V11 Sport has the mesh cover. Mine does not have one fitted and looks decidedly agricultural compared to the earlier model. Do the Rosso Mandello's which are 2001 models have this? Is this cover able to be taken off and fitted to the later model bikes? Rob