O2 V11

Slug, This is the price they gave me back in March last year, I couldn't see them being any cheaper now. Please see prices as follows. 1xset of polished or brushed finish stainless steel oval mufflers $1285 incl gst 1xset of black chrome finish oval stainless steel $1370.00 incl gst The v11 sport mufflers and made to mount on to the stock muffler brackets&have inserts to accommodate the heel plates. Expensive buggers, even here in N.Z. Rob

Tom, If you're keen on those parts (seat, belly pan and fairing) e-mail me. Rob

Carl, I recall a posting of someone's tripmeter reading differently to the odometer but I would say it would be an exception, not the rule. Your gas mileage is very good, my '02 model which is stock except for a power commander, has done at best a fraction under 37 US mpg. Rob

Allan, if your LeMans has Veglia clocks and the chinpad on the tank then you have an external fuel filter. Rob

The colour scheme worked for both the original V7 and then the V11. Being polite, I don't think it works at all for the Griso. Rob

Enough said, 1st tyre change I did the same. Rob

No, mine is one of the many 2002, sold as 2003 model bikes wholesaled by OC and their cronies in late 2003 and early 2004. Rob

I've posted before on this one. My 2002 Naked uses all the gas in the tank so I wonder if there were any changes made post 2001? dlaing has run out of fuel twice and put in near enough to 19 litres both times. I have never run out of fuel, and have filled the tank with 21.67 litres. This time the slosh test failed there was nothing left, another 100 metres I would have been pushing. I'm double anal, if that's possible with fuel usage, so far in 7184 miles my average consumption is 38.99 mpg and 32.48 US mpg. In there is a high of 45.16 / 37.62 mpg and a low of 26.9 / 22.41 mpg. My high fuel usage relates directly to tyre wear and enjoyment factor. My last rear tyre a Continental Contiforce was knackered in a couple of miles short of 3,000. This is a but a small price to pay for the privilege of being able to ride such an outstandingly enjoyable motorcycle as we do. Rob

This "cracking" of the inlet sleeves must be prevalent. Mine arrived as such in July '04, with the bike being assembled in Feb '02 and having travelled only 6 miles. I am of the opinion if it isn't broken then there is no need to fix it. The sleeves appearance has not changed at all since then in 7,000 odd miles. Never has there been any indications of them actually leaking air. This leads me to believe mine is only cosmetic damage. Rob

Mine is doing the bubble thing now as well, with just over 7,000 miles on the clock. As we are in the throes of autumn now in our part of the world and looking towards those inevitable dark wet winter days. It will soon be time for me to attack my cases. I have heard what good things have been done by soda blasters. Similar to sand blasters but using a lower pressure and bicarbonate of soda as the medium. I'll let you know how it works out. Rob

I've been following this with interest. Before posting, I needed some clarification from Neville Hayes the owner of the actual WFI. He told me together with his late father Norman he purchased the bike and all the parts that went with it before Burt's death. I was told the engine in the USA, is an 8 valve engine Burt made from spares. I am not sure what size this engine is. Also remaining in the US is the original 1920 Scout frame along with the third streamliner shell made. As the record was set in 1967 it would be fair to say we share the World's Fastest Indian. The US is home for the record setting streamliner shell above and Invercargill is home for the much modified motorcycle itself. I have included some links to some interesting articles. Rob http://www.seniorjournal.com/NEWS/Entertai...opkinsStars.htm http://www.indianmotorbikes.com/features/munro/index.htm

Looks like you have the right one there Brian. Rob http://www.mgcycle.com/oil.html

orangeokie, here is a pic of mine. Rob

It may be a case of conjecture, premature conjecture at that. Time will tell. Rob

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the forum Tony. Out of curiosity what age are you and is this your first Guzzi? Rob

1956 Lodola? Rob

When I change my oil I measure in 3500ml including the oil filter fill. Now when I check the oil level, I do it before I start the bike. I unscrew the dipstick with the bike still on the sidestand and check the level against what it was after it's oilchange. The bike is always parked in the same spot so the only thing that can change is the oil level. My oil sits about 10mm above the high mark but checking the oil level the correct way, after having run it for a while and the bike vertical it is on the high mark. It doesn't matter to me what method is used, as long as it's done the same way, same place every time so the only variation if any, is the amount of oil in your sump. Rob

http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm azccj, try the above link. Courtesy of Lex, this may help you get the job done. In order to tighten the stud under the plug, I cut down a 10mm allen key then used a socket on this. In regard to the moly additive for the bevel box I think Harper's Cycles sells this. Another option is to use Redline Shockproof heavyweight in the gearbox and bevel box. This comes very highly recommended and as a bonus you do not need to add the moly to the bevel box when using this oil. Rob

I'm with bshpilot on this one. When I trailered my new bike 65kms home this is where I tied mine down. I feel more tiedowns are not always best. I use two now, and the have found the front end doesn't have to be pulled down tight. As for the rear I stopped using tiedowns after the kid's old trail bike fell over on me. All I do now, is secure the bottom of the wheel to the deck to stop any sideways movement. No matter what you do, I know you will get it home in one piece. Congratulations on the purchase. Rob

Try Fiat Panda, Cinquecento or Seicento from '82 to nearly new. Rob

Fernando, I replaced my OE Bridgestones with Continentals, the basement ContiForce type. I downsized the rear to a 170/60 at the same time. I have found them to be a significant improvement over the original. I had too many scary moments of the rear end sliding on unseen pea gravel. A couple times I stopped immediately as it felt like my rear tyre had instantly deflated. I'm not saying the Continentals don't do it, but they offer me so much more confidence inspiring grip when cornering. Before I would deliberately run wide on a corner that I saw gravel on. Now I don't worry, if the rear does slide it's all over as soon as it started. Strangely the front end has never given me any moments at all. Rob

Big J, you can see what I use to do mine. I've done mine twice now. The first time was when the bike was new, I took the wheel off and greased everything I could, shocky bushes, torque rod ends, all those sorts of things and secondly when I changed the rear tyre. Looking at my tyre, I'll being doing it for a third time at about the 8,000 mile mark. With the wheel and bevel box removed, I lower the driveshaft as far as it can go then force the fitting onto the upwards facing nipple. The hose gets a fair bend to it but it works. If you could find a flexible hose with a shorter fitting anything less than my one at 6cm it would be a lot easier to work with. Rob

Jasper, the BMW part number for the lens you will need in Australia is 63 12 1 358 148. This is the part I replaced my lens with after my bike arrived from the USA. Hopefully, you won't need to buy a new one. Rob

"I ran mine last summer on 120/60-17 Pirelli dragon corsa, no trouble with the front. but watch out many tyres with the lower profile are made for lightweight bikes like 600cc sportbike or supermotard bikes. Our V11s needs a more stable tyre at high speeds." This is gthyni's response to a similar posting I made last year. From the Continental tyres website: In the ContiForce range, the difference between a 120/70 and 120/60 is, the 60 tyre has a load rating of 218kg compared the 70 tyre's 236 kg. The rim width recommendations are the same as is the air pressure. Another difference being a 24mm reduction in diameter for the 60 tyre. Given that the V11 has an accepted rearward weight bias I cannot see fitting a 120/60 front would cause any major problems. Can anyone state how much weight is on the front wheel, I broke my bathroom scales trying to find out... My own experience in downsizing the rear tyre, which led to making my bike a better handling one, makes me keen to experiment with the front tyre sizing as well. Rob

OldButNotDead, I fitted Continental ContiForce tyres. German designed, made in Korea, now a near bottom of the barrel selection. But for me, still a far better product than those originally fitted. The 170/60 is only 10mm narrower and able to be fitted to the 5.5 inch rim and also has slightly larger circumference than the 180/55. It was no problem for me to change sizes. If your riding style entails dragging pegs and mufflers then it might not be the correct option but it works very well for me. Rob