Jump to content

luhbo

Members
  • Posts

    2,711
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

Everything posted by luhbo

  1. out is leaner. More air. That's why you should have turned them in (closed) while balancing. Hubert
  2. I have something similar. I just fed up the slot from about 8mm at center to approx. 1.2 at the tip (just enough for the wire) with a plywood strip. I think this is way enough, because more would make it impossible to open the throttle with one grip. I had to enlarge the mounting hole in the center of course, now it looks a bit like the one from the throttle sensor. Hubert
  3. If it was teh throttle sensor, it wouldn't have worked. Maybe CARB stands for "carburante" (and then should go to the tank) or something like that, especially as there never was a carburetor on the V11. Hubert
  4. Yes, this time looking from above... Hubert
  5. I have a '99/2000 V11 Limone and can say that the bike is overall just perfect! No gear problems, no engine problems, no guiding problems and perfect paint on every part. The only issue are the fugative toungs to where the voltage regulator and the horns are mounted. They really have a tendency to fall off. Hubert
  6. I think bromides could be the result of cleaning fluids. When I remember right this stuff is found in beer also from time to time. In the region where I live there once were found nitrogene derivates in high priced wines. It was a quite scandalous affair, because they found out that the wine maker optimised his wine using faucet water (and some sweet things like glycol and so). The nitrogene (or better nitrate) is alowed in the faucet water but not in wine. Nitrogene is also standard in high pressure race bicycle tyres. Hubert
  7. I am also not sure, why they should be so. But at me they look way more suspicious than the ECU does. I'm not really sure, but in my mind something takes shape that I once heard someone talking about a similar problem with blown fuses and guilty relais. Personally I only had a blown fuse once, the one for the starter solenoid. That's nearly the same. Lights were off, the solenoid has its own relais, why should the fuse fail? I think I let the starter knob go for a short moment, and this short interuption killed the fuse. Must have been the jumping relais. Besides, I am still waiting for the rain. All this salt still lays around everywhere... Hubert
  8. Carl, have you already changed the relais? If you don't have new ones at hand, then just switch those that are used actually, means 2 with 1 or an other one. I think you see my point. I would try this first. Hubert
  9. I once ran out of fuel when I was in Italy, about a quarter past noon or so. Luckily I found a gas station, Agip even, just to find that they close down the whole country from 12 to 4 pm. I can see your point In case you have to stop just because of vapor lock I suggest to remove the right hose from the tank and fire up the pump for some seconds. Without the backpressure it should be possible to bring the vapor out. Anyway, with this procedure you could also fire up the whole bike, so be carefull. Hubert
  10. But keep in mind that shifting is easier at lower revs, so fiddling with the lever at that RPMS quickly leads to 9000+. The older LM3 stands it (at least prooven 3 times) but this engine is remarkable smaller. Hubert
  11. I wish you that this was the reason. I had the ECU open. As the diagramm also shows there should be a ground connection via pins 23 and 24 over the harness. (The PCB imho seems to be separated into two ground blocks, one connected to 23/24, the other one separated but connected to the first block via the internal screws and the housing) Have you checked wether the housing and the battery minus is connected even without the separate cabel? Hubert
  12. Hi dlaing, I mean disinformation does not mean lying. I call it disinformation, when correct informations are shared, but either in a compromising context or without any further but important informations that were available and so on. Maybe this fellow killed this clutch with excessive wheelies (probably not, of course) but that's what I wanted to say. And look at the bolts again, these were 10.9 ones. The mechanic must have done something wrong IMHO Hubert
  13. The bolts all have sheared, in deed! I would post such pictures more carefully, to be honest. You have or at least share no information how the clutch was mounted, who did it, with what tools, what torques and so on. You don't even tell us the source of the pics! I think it's just a wonderfull example of how desinformation works! This clutch is sold since many years, as you probably know, without any problems or even safety issues as I think to know. I do know that it is shit anyway, as even the steel original shows too much wear. Also it is seldom a good practice just to change the material without any design or mounting adjustments. Hubert
  14. It's not necessarily unwanted to have some reversion of the exhaust flow, the opposite normaly is the case. The reason is, that while both valves are open a varying amount of fresh gas leaves the head and should be brought back just before the outlet closes. That's for 4-stroke engines nearly the same way as for the screamers. That you always have to change gains here against losses there should be the basic problem of tuning in every case. I know only one tuning item that promises gains everywhere An other possibility to deal with this step would be welding a short piece of tube to the header, so that you get a better insulation between the head and the hot exhaust flow. Hubert
  15. One could also suggest to visit the next car repair shop and to connect the V11 to their diagnostic system. Normaly every half way state of the art shop nowadays owns such an oscilloscope and so should be able to logg these killer-spikes on your harness. In my non electrix expert eyes it seems to be abit risky to try to protect electronics with the help of fuses, especially car type ones. They are so lazy. I remember to have already ruined the harness of my LM3 cockpit before the fuse finally blew. Hubert
  16. Hi Mogens, what you wrote, together with the fact, that there is indeed a world beside the internet, brings the sentence to my mind: NEVER CHANGE A RUNNING SYSTEM! Personally I would not want my bike to consume this amount of fuel, but who knows how you are using it. If I compare this with the values given in the different magazine tests it is not that much too much. I think you trust the right people. Seems they've been in this business already in pre-PC times, somehow like the stuff at Guzzi itself. Hubert
  17. On my old LM3 I have an oil temperature meter. Even in summer on the highway, and for you on german highways (plus 180 km/h), I don't see more than 130 deg Celsius. For me this means next year: V11 with standard sump, additional oil meter and no extra cooler. I commute from April to Oktober, and I found that on normal roads and on 15° to 20°C days the oil hardly gets 80°. Comes rain it stays cold! HUbert
  18. I heard quite some of them, being at a meeting last year. Now I can tell you what I "liked" most, personally, and from driving behind them. That's a bit like using the good old Castrol RS because it smells so good. Practically you yourself have to pay for this expensive stuff, the great smell is for the others. Coming back to the mufflers I think the Titanium have the best sound and also the best look. But it was not very hard to find out that others definitely have better prices. Now when I comute I always have the pleasure of great sound memories from then and the good feeling, that my V11 probably sounds equaly. Hubert
  19. The fuel pump and the coils are switched on and off solely by the ecu. It looks, as if pin 19 of the 15M is the one that triggers relais 46. And before doing any harm to you or your new powder coating: why don't you just ground the regulator via the cable that's meant exactly for that? One could start an other thrad here, but I find it a bit risky to damage an otherwise closed and waterproof powder coat. I saw frames, where under the nice red coat the metal more or less had partially vanished. A bit like cheap chinese outdoor furniture tend to do. Hubert
  20. You should have a direct link to the battery for all your electric components anyway. On my V11 the voltage regulator f.i. has a separate ground cable. Last summer it came loose and I ended up with a flat battery, but not with shot components (like tiny ecus) or blown fuses. I'm still curious. Please make sure to post the solution. Hubert
  21. luhbo

    ECU

    Some time ago Todd said here in this thread, that actual PCIII Usb's wouldn't try to fool the ecus any longer. He confirmed, that an actual PC would use the injector signal, that comes from the ecu, only for triggering its own map. After struggling hard to stay at ball height in this thread this mentioned PC behaviour makes sense in my eyes. If a given value in the PC map would stand for a procentual enrichement, the PC would have to wait for the signal turning high, start injection, wait until the ecu signal goes low again, then add some time as given in its map and finally end the injection. While doing this it would have to interpolate between its own breakpoints also. But a PC can do more, it can also lean out the mixture. If it does not know how long the ecu injects, how should the PC subtract 3% e.g.? 3% from what time? A zero map would work anyway, just putting the original signals through to the nozzles. Hubert
  22. Fortunately no rewiring this time...
  23. This sounds good, but why does the ecu fuse pop? I you have a bad ground, you should have less then normal currents. I have no idea, I am asking... Hubert
  24. I read the other thread, too. It reminded me of something you folks may like. It's from one of our actual comedians, acting always in early sold out houses. He speaks all of the persons himself, Dr.Goebel, Hartmut and his Alter Ego, Erwin Pelzig. His last sentence says: "I just said, England is different" Enjoy, it's not meant as an offence (rename to mp3)
  25. luhbo

    ECU

    The conclusion I draw is that there was a fault at least in the exhaust system of one of the Futuras. What do you think is the reason for this difference? When you have oxygen in the exhaust gas and everything else is ok the engine runs probably rather lean, or what am I missing? What did the O2 sensor say at these two Futuras, in terms of Lambda or A/F? hUbert
×
×
  • Create New...