luhbo
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Posts posted by luhbo
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I know several guys who swear by V-Power and similar high priced low ethanol stuff - and yet report swollen tanks. Well, these plastic tanks are 20 now, a long time even for slower chemical reactions.
E10 is good for Guzzis, technically, alas our European alcohol is made from Amazonian rain forest, burned down for corn and sugar plant mono cultures. If you have a choice you might consider this
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180° Laverda 1000. Beats everything. The epitome of mechanical brutalism.
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Not sure about the details. I think I read about big resistors bolted to the pegs resp. the carriers
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Yep. Sending or wasting surplus energy to ground was funny English pre-war technology. They had bikes with heated foot pegs for this.
Balancing was necessary with magnets-based light/spark installations on light 50cc bikes. Rather tricky systems, but light and cheap.
Which site is still spreading such things in context with modern bikes?
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The stock cans have several downsides, as weight, looks, ground clearance, whisper, just to name some. But power restriction certainly is not on this list. Especially midrange should be much better as with Mivvs.
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On 9/1/2019 at 2:59 PM, gstallons said:
The cylinder head comes off very easy . Don't be afraid to take it off and do it right . If things get too f'd up .Time-Sert is the ultimate repair .
If it's the plug that I have in mind then the head won't come off at all.
But as 68C said a several times now: take a big nut, M10, M12 or bigger even, lay it onto the plug, fill in the hole using a simple arc welder and then just screw out the plug. Easiest thing in the world. No risk of damaging anything. Opposedly to what you're trying now.
Because of leakage problems it may well be that this plug is glued in with Loctite. In that case welding would be your only chance.
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6 hours ago, andy york said:
Here are the guts of a TPS
Pull out the resistance foil. That's the part that wears.
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Well, I quite like them. They sound like the Mivv ones, a bit too hard for me. Maybe you should try them in combination with the stock crossover
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With the fuse open the regulator won't work, means won't charge. With the fuse solidly bridged (what I understand under "running it without a fuse") you go a rather high risk of fire in whatever form. Because then you have your mighty Odyssey directly connected either to the regulator or, in case of a shorted cable, directly to the frame or the engine etc.
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Cutting out this 30A fuse is dangerous.
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Impressive. That's roughly 250 Watts. That's hot. The headlight burns 60 Watts, enough to lighten cigarettes
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In case you're out of plugs at least make sure you have a Harley or Beemer cover with you. A bike should be trailed properly covered only.
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I wouldn't stress too much the vulcanising aspect. The times when rubbers were rubber are long over.
I have a friend who takes tissue and super-glue/cyano for it. A plug on this basis works for 5000 km and more (you seldomly have a worn tyre pierced)
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Relays are ON/OFF, nothing in between, and the ECU is completely fed through relays. Quite the same for its controller. It works stable at plus minus 5V, but below that it doesn't cough or sneeze or so, it just resets -> full stop.
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Read the first post
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Anyhow, the initial description was "idles perfectly as long as you don't touch the throttle". That still doesn't match the now given solution.
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I'd have preferred the P/C. A slack joint at the neutral switch is just too cheap. Reminds of my cheap and loose plug cups, shattering my elaborate phase sensor theories to silly pieces.
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Sharp!
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On the runway, ready for take-off ...
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Thirties' design, mirrors and indicators added
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Mind the name: Verde Legnano
Most blokes never get it.
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Well, for the looks only it was a steal. Otherwise there's no difference to the standard ones. Just another sleeve. Same 10 kg steel cans inside.
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Yep, he missed. Me, too
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23 minutes ago, Steve S said:
You just missed a pair of titanium cans on ebay
Steve, for how much did they go?
3D printed intake boots
in Technical Topics
Posted
I think they are 160 for a set of two.