luhbo
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Posts posted by luhbo
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When I have such problems on my bike, what happens every 5 years or so, it's usually a bad ground, caused by either worn or greasy brushes. Remove the metal cap at the back of the starter and check the length of the brushes. You will also see whether the mags are broken or not. If they are broken you'll see a lot of small magnet particles/pieces between and around the brushes.
Hold the starter button, ask your friend to pull in the clutch, then give the metal cap a slight knock (while it's still on the starter), using a 12/13 spanner or the like. Should the starter engage the moment you kick it you can be sure it's the above mentioned ground problem.
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Written on my Odyssey ( as on probably every single one sold the last 20+ years) is 13,8V charging voltage for floating use. If you want to be nice to your battery you better keep the voltage in this range. If your 14.9 are real, then something's wrong with your charging circuit.
Only for those who drained theirs (in spec) it's below 14.8V, no inrush current limit.
Exide claims at least 40A/14.8V in case the battery shall fully recover from a deep discharge. If you take this serious you better don't drain it that deep (10 and less). 40x15=600W is a lot, maybe a charger for lorry batteries could come somewhat close.
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P/S to ECU to tach. Wasn't it this thread where I gave a link to Cliff Jefferies' site, holding better and especially detailed information for such topics?
Ed.: It's been your other one. It's MyEcu.biz. Worth a reading.
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Thx. See your other thread
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No, that's not normal. That's why I asked. Check the phase sensor. You'll probably find it mounted with way to much distance to the tooth wheel. I recently found this on two engines, both probably as they came from the factory. I removed a 1.5mm shim and changed the 0.5 one to a 0.8mm (two were mounted, so it was 2 mm). Now I have it sitting with 0.5mm clearance - and that cured a lot. At least it's driveable again.
It's a Hall sensor, this type is ageing. When new it obviously works also with a gap that big, after nearly 20 years now it doesn't.
The interesting part is why especially at 3000 the problem becomes so obvious. Anyhow, check the gap and better get a new sensor. And report your findings please
I forgot: I tried several different maps. Would have been better to watch the tach needle earlier and think about what it wanted to tell me.
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What happened to the misleading and jumping tach needle? The bike's still running fine, also when hot?
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It's a simple job, agreed. That doesn't mean it's going by itself. It's about the gains in this game. Chain and tensioner are rock solid, easily making 200.000 plus. Not without wear, but still doing their jobs.
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These parts are that cheap. Once they were "proudly made in USA" by CTS, a competitor of where I go daily. I think some years ago I already did post a link to their site. They sold it as a product meant for "leisure articles" like lawn mowers and the like. 80.000 miles on a big V-Twin definitely is beyond its designed life time.
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The wheel resp. the mark probably is jumping mostly because of running the engine without load. The risk of doing something silly to your engine while opening it just because of that definitely is bigger then any possible gains.
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So where exactly do you pick up the signals? Between sensor and ECU or between ECU and Tach? As written by others further above the wheel/sensor feeds the ECU, the ECU feeds the tach. Go on MyECU.biz for further infos and details. This man knows his stuff.
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Mine died shortly after this began. Coil wire was broken.
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On 4/6/2019 at 7:44 AM, Lucky Phil said:
Just some feedback on the timing gears. Rode into the city yesterday for lunch with my wife which entailed about 60klms of freeway riding at 100 klm/h in 26 degC heat at around 2900-30000 rpm indicated. It still coughs and stumbles at around 3000 rpm occasionally. So the gears aren't the answer to that it seems. looks like mapping.
Ciao
Now that. Posted since nearly a month now and no one jumped in
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Ain't no direct steer on two wheels.
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while you're breeding over the pics (and let us hang out) you might want to change the title to "Gina the racing moto" if you want it to be somewhat Italian. Doesn't sound half that smooth, however it translates to bike, not car.
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A friend bought me a bad one, too, not the quality I expected. But they do react positively on tlc (as you say), so if the basics are ok, the things that you can see and hear, I see no reason why you shouldn't take her. You have to like the fairing, silver or not, but that's up to you.
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Sorry for the affront then. It doesn't offense my enthusiasm, that would be too silly, I see such talk as an offense against my profession.
I have a buddy riding his Stelvio with the standard warranty replacement parts inside, built in after the standard warranty procedure from Guzzi,without any issues since another 100.000 km (comuting 100km per day from March mostly 'till December). That's correctly hardened flat tappets, correctly hardened cams, oil only flushed once to get the biggest debris out. Same design as before, works obviously fine now.
I believe that most often quality problems are mixed up with bad design work. Just take 'The Spring' as an example. Early builds work perfectly, next generation completely fails, last generation works again. Is that a design flaw then?
BTW, I consider roller tappets not being a clever solution. Never understood how they work on standard flat-tapped-cam profiles. Any suggestions?
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... but they didn't design the motor correctly as it ate the flat tappets...
Impressive. Quite some mouthfull, worth a proper Tweet if you want. But sorry, that's BS. Eating tappets is not necessarily a matter of bad design. Not that I would doubt you guys cannot immediately recognise a bad design should you ever come across one, but in this case it's just not so. I take phrases like this as a personal affront.
Some folk here should eventually make up their mind why they're still Guzzi owners. Is it because of the bad design, the bad looks, the bad prices, the bad parts situation, the bad quality, the bad situation in general? Because you feel being in good company when it comes to Guzzi bashing?
Better be easy with them, maybe they just don't have the right handbooks down there at the lake.
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Look up 'A twist of the wrist' or so. Said all that already in the 70ies iirc.
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Voyeuristic video, misused to transport pseudo scientific bullshit. Only useful message: You have to countersteer, actually more then ever!
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Pretty good eye. It's .003" out.Shouldn't the upper eye of the conrod be round? Is it all the same on Jap bikes? How come it's came that long?
Thanks. Obviously more a matter of screen distortion then
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Shouldn't the upper eye of the conrod be round? Is it all the same on Jap bikes? How come it's came that long?
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tried several answers to your addi puzzle. No one went through so far. Could you please give me an additional hint?
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Well, I see the crows circling. Let one brake and they'll go down.
Over here we had the same. Guzzi too stupid to design even the most simple spring (talking about Gepetto the spring bender), then thanks to one of the forum Gods who stood up and roled his own suddenly nearly everyone had at least 5 wonder spare ones laying around. Then something strange happened. The wonder springs started braking, the Guzzi ones stopped to do so. Lots of crow so to say.
Nonetheless, with this double wound, thin wire spring you should be on the safe side.
NGC did I tell you guys about my new bike?
in Special place for banter and conversation
Posted
Great, it has a main stand. Those come handy for tyre changing. Wish I had a main stand, too.