luhbo
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Posts posted by luhbo
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you spray silver and over that a transparent green coat, finally seal it (and the applied stickers) with clear lacquer. The colour (system) is hard to get and for the right effect it needs an experienced painter. The silver layer must be perfect, the size of the particles and their orientation make the difference.
Congratulations to you for your fine taste, by the way
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17 hours ago, footgoose said:
if the muffler hit the ground, the hangar bracket could bend. also bent foot peg. Joe has good stuff, thats what I have.
I bent the bracket outwards, pulling at the hanger, and the bracket came off. Just so. It helps to have a MIG/MAG unit available in this case.
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When it worked last spring it should do so now as well. I think the play you noticed might be the problem. Check for any forgotten spacers or such, although I think there aren't too many in there in this position.
Shit, one part left, again!
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Never. The Murphys already had emigrated to Italy those days
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Pic from another period. Ancient English industry
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I'd say this is not acceptable, even when it's quite common. Make sure you use 12.9 bolts and torque them to 40Nm. You may also cut the slots some millimeters deeper to ease the clamping. Of course, that's up to what nerves you have in real life, internet off. But done properly it's a proofen modification.
Some words about the alignment: Because of the wide rear tyre the U-Joints don't move in one plane only. Look from above and you'll see the shaft pointing outwards. That's the reason they weld them with some degrees more/less then 180°, it's to reduce the resulting transmission failure.
And be easy with grease on the moving part of the shaft. The spines should be able to glide 'freely', too much grease and they're stuck. Common fault because this zerk is the only one everyone can reach
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Main purpose of this sensor is to control start-up and warm-up enrichment. Its influence on the drivability is overestimated.
My maps are set to zero above 50°C (enough) and below -10°C (failsafe)
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Will do that, have an old Duc one in parts.
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What is the problem? Centering them? I've never done that so far.
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Oha:) That's seldom, I say.
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Do you have more pictures?
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Oil will get inside the clutch only through a loose input hub in combination with a worn or otherwise damaged O-ring on the input shaft (or inside the hub, as you like it).
What you have here can also be the result of someone having greased the splines, hoping to reduce wear on them.
You should find only red rusty dust inside the clutch, and more or less worn splines.
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Get a little closer and take your time. There's at least one, coming right out of the black spot in the center.
And don't be too quick with the 15M Marelli system. It's rock solid and offers absolutely 100% of what can be used on this engine. Carbs, well, to each his own or so. When you expect more from a 'modern' bike like ours' than 'fuel in / fun out' and also think that the 'fuel in' part should be somewhat restricted, in this case carbs aren't a real option. Even crazy costly ones.
Interesting is the info about discrepancies between PC5 and TPS/PF3. Only last week a buddy from our forum told me how sweet the autotune option would be. Maybe the truth lays in the 'would be' part of his story
Anyway, your tuner is correct about autotune. It will screw the map to uselessness -but only if you leave it on for every days' use. That's not what it's meant for. Make a couple of test runs similar to how it's done on the dyno and then turn it off. Check for silly looking spikes, maybe smoothen them out, check rideability and then maybe repeat the autotune session. This will give you good results.
Another question is closed-loop running. Can the PC5 be used in closed-loop mode, that's basically auto-tune without modifying the map?
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12 minutes ago, sp838 said:
How about the hairs growing on it? -
Don't take it all too digital, or black and white as it was called then, both systems have their advantages.
Biggest disadvantage of the PC is its vulnerability caused by additional connectors, additional pcbs and so on. Not to mention the space it needs.
Biggest advantage of the PC is the now finally available AutoTune / Closed Loop option (since when, btw?). Many are using it nowadays. Nomore need for a dyno at all (only if you can get on without impressive charts and curves, of course).Another option I can think of, especially for the US, is a TuneBoy key. Tuner in the US use it on their Dynojet dynos. TuneBoy also can read PC maps and use them to modify the OEM Marelli maps. Because of this feature others also still use TuneBoy in parallel to GuzziDiag.
If you're new to this you should have a look at TuneBoy. You can still go to dynos, you can use PC maps, additionally you can change ignition values and correction maps etc. Costs should be comparable, if not better.-
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Stay easy, folks! It's the internet only.
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Griswoia, thx for reporting the solution. PC3s spoiling your driving experience are reported here quite often
To enumerate all modifications right in the first post is an important part of the ceremony, as it helps to enumerate all theoretically possible sorts of failures
, the fun part of the whole thing.
But seriously, mentioning the PC3 would have solved the problem right in the first answer.
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Boring them is not a bad idea, as long as it is just for smoothing the wear marks
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This year's Greeny parade, 3 of 4. After 20 years still the biggest group, even without the other 4 KRs of other colours (2 and 2)
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No, no power loss in my case. Since the time I had a regulator go bad and high, cooking quite some acid out of a then rather new Hawker, I have installed a small two tone led inside the tach which roughly shows me the status of the charging circuit. Dark red below 12V, bright green above 14.5. Roughly. In-between it's ok. So when I saw the red light I knew I had to do something. First lights off, then head home.
You may find the schematics for this little gimmick on Wayne Orwig's site. Recommended. Wayne Orwig's Guzzi Stuff or so
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Mine were old and worn and delivered differently and replacing them made both exhaust headers look the same. This didn't hurt, at least.
When I read through the posts above I can see only one conclusion: keep as much components straight and matched and level as possible.
Are the injectors listed in the OEM parts/alternatives list? They are available for Lancias IIRC and should come sufficiently matched. Green ones should be ok. Alas, I can't remember what the specs were or where I found them. Maybe Guzziology ...
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No, that happens just so. Me, too, had to go through this once.
I could resolder mine. You'd need a solid iron, 100W is adequate. And it should not be your first attempt to solder something.
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Loctite 648. Good stuff.
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mine has about 60km left when the light comes on the first time. After 60km the situation becomes tricky, but so far I never had to push the bike
Colour change - Coppa or Green??
in 24/7 V11
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Rosso Mandello is the other possible choice of colour
Black frame then ....