Cliff

I don't need much pressuring. It wouldn't take much effort on my part to relayout the board to suit the 15M connector. If someone can find the part number of the ECU connector and a source I'll do it. If you can find the cable side connector also I could switch over completely to the 15M plug. Carl perhaps you'd loan me your spare ECU to look at so I can size the board etc.

I was considering using carbs when my WM ECU got zapped, but now wouldn't consider anything else but FI. A few people are doing FI upgrades to their bikes at the moment and will using my controller. It really comes down to understanding the technology and more importantly being able to diagnose and control it. This is lacking with the original controllers. Scott it sounds like the leman law is your best option here as you seem to be in good hands dealerwise and this is what they're saying also.

Ok, having done a search, it appears we're talking about the 3-4K miss. A common problem unfortunately. Are there any other issues ? The miss could be because of one of two reasons I can think of off hand. If its due to mapping ( being to lean at that point ), then a PC will improve the situation as should increasing the TPS a little to make it richer. If its due to the cam pickup resonating as detailed on http://www.fuelinmoto.com.au/fimfaq.html#q8 then its unlikely a PCIII will help. It may be fixed by replacing the ECU. How about finding a V11 near you and trying a quick swap to see if it helps.

Sorry to hear about you bike being a garage queen. I don't recall hearing too much about it. Give us a full run down on what its doing and see if we can get it running better.

Anyone running this model with the new ECU - catalytic converter and gas sensor? Any feedback as to how it performs. I had a guy from Germany contact me about My16M because his was running so badly. Usual stuff - missing badly 2000-3000. He's already changed the ECU and his Guzzi contacts aren't much help in fixing it. Trying to ascertain if this is a another generic issue or a particular problem with this bike. This is the first feedback I've heard about 2003 models except for the Breva.

The pump primes fairly easily. I'd have the filter with the inlet at the bottom. This allows any air to be quickly purged from it. On the Sport it is mainly horizontal with outlet slightly higher. This looked like it would hold air in that upper corner. I'm sure the first ride after replacing the filter, I was getting occasional misses as some of the trapped air escaped

There are similar and more effective ways than the oil temp sensor. You can use the air temp sensor or air pressure sensor. These have more effect on the mixture. I'd add a gas sensor and display first so that you can see what you're doing. On my site you'll find some circuits indicating how these sensors hook in.

Good advice. After finishing my major service 25000km, still got the fork oil to go, I should do the same. It also helps to use the higher quality fuels. I use Optimax almost exclusively.

This problem seems to got back through the Sport 1100 range also. I don't think there'll be a fix any time soon. Is there some oil additive that can protect for the few seconds of no pressure

Nothing yet. A new fuel filter is coming up soon. Thats a easy job with the tank off. You might want to clean all the electrical connectors. Even just openning closing them a couple of times will improve the contact.

Two different solutions there. The first is a one off water addition, the second is talking a permanent installation. I can't see the first one doing anything more than perhaps decoking the cylinder. The second is more interesting. Perhaps add another pump and some injectors and a few more outputs to My16M and you can have permanent and accurate water injection. If we do the same again with NO ...

Just changed mine yesterday with only minimal skin loss. Nearly finished except a hose clamp broke. Rather than contemplating a new tank, wouldn't it be simpler to get some fuel line and brackets and move things around. It will make for easier servicing in the long run.

Carl, the connector is just a cable mounting centronics printer plug. For testing purposes you could fudge the pressure sensor with a potentiometer. If you want I could send you over another harness and a pressure sensor I have, or perhaps you'd like another my16M with the pressure sensor already installed If you can send me some photos of the 15M ECU and cabling that would be good. You may even be able to get some part numbers off the current plugs. It wouldn't be to hard for me to layout another PCB to suit.

The ECUs used are different but the way they connect to the bike is nearly identical as far as I can see from the schematics. Why don't you connect it to your V11 Carl, you know you want ''

Could be High Energy Radio Frequency http://science.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid...tid=159&tid=186

Same spot?? Its not someone with their HERF gun or something. Slashdot had a story on these just the other day. Is it near a house or is there a radar trap? Check all the connectors, reseat the relays etc

Same spot?? Its not someone with their HERF gun or something. Slashdot had a story on these just the other day. Is it near a house or is there a radar trap? Check all the connectors, reseat the relays etc

Another thing to check would be the signal level from the engine sensor. Its basically a sine wave and you can use a voltmeter to measure it. You should be getting at least 4 or 5 volts peak to peak at idle. This is measured between the two signal wires from the sensor.

Sorry to hear of your problems. Has the bike ever performed properly? These two bikes sound like they should be shipped to Italy for detailed diagnosis and replaced outright. Could it be something like a timing wheel being one tooth out? A timing light would be a simple test. They idle with about 5 degrees advance.

That's a hard call. I heard the some of latest Dukes had moved to a new controller. Don't know if Guzzi have moved on also. If they have most things will be different. If its still the 15M then I would say its all the same. Either way get the bike first and see how it goes. The PC is optional not mandatory. The standard FI setup seems to improve each year anyhow.

With the above comment on pinging being worse, that is if you don't modify the ignition advance. When you adjust the advance by retarding, then you are better off. So your ECU has the modified ignition timing now or is that fixed the "not running" problem? What was the fix?

If you had spots where it pinged or pinged sometimes, dual plugging will make it worse as the cyclinder pressures will be increasing more rapidly. Anyway you know where you can get an ECU that has no mapping limitations and if you blow the output with the coils you're only up for about $10 to fix it. You're pioneering a few other areas already :-)

It is getting confusing and these multiple boards don't help. Carl is incorrect when he says I measured the coils in parallel. I did measure both coils together, but they were in series. Combined impedence was 1.4 ohm which means each coil was 0.7 ohms.

I'm sure it will improve the spark and perhaps performance a little, but I don't think it would be good bang for buck. CDI and such are more important in the single coil/multicylinder environment where there is limited time to charge up the coil. For our application there is plenty of time. I don't see the ignition of the FI bikes being lacking. There'll always be those that can hear the difference with gold $100/metre speaker cables though.

There are two things I see the ECU caring about, the maximum current and the kickback voltage. The current has to be handled by the driver of the ECU. In addition to being within spec for the driver, more current will also mean more power has to be dissipated whilst energising the coil. A coil is just like any inductor. When turned on the current starts at 0 and ramps up ( in an exponential decay sort of way ) towards a maximum value dictated by the DC resistance. Apart from determining the final current the DC resistance determines how quickly the current ramps up. The kick back voltage on the primary is dictated by the voltage generated on the spark plug and the ratio of primary turns to secondary turns. To throw a few loose numbers if the spark voltage is 30kV and the ratio of turns from secondary to primary is 100:1 then 300V will apear at the ECU. The ECU will have addition protection built in to protect its output stage, perhaps 400V. Ideally this will not come into play as the voltage is limited by the secondary side. You want all the stored energy at the spark plug, not back in the ECU. If you don't have enough turns on the secondary, or your spark gap is too great some of the energy will be back into the ECU. Fortunately things aren't as exacting as it sounds, don't go less than your current coil resistance. Measure both of them. Don't go too high either or the ECU may not energise them long enough to store sufficient enery in them. The ones JohnIIS suggests are probably ok as would probably most coils off a Jap 4. They're usually dual output also aren't they?