Cliff

They're good points Carl. The pressure regulator does have a reference inlet. In our case it is connected to nothing. This could be connected to part of the nitrous setup to boost the pressure. That would also take care of the injector sizing. If think the increase required is of about 30%. I'd be worried the bike would last the dyno session. I think the supercharger would be a better approach.

How do you get the ECU to provide more fuel? That sport looks like a carb version. Couple of options would be increase the fuel pressure, fool the current ECU by tweaking air temp sensor.

In the ECU

16 throttle and 15 RPM breakpoints are what the 16M has and I presume the 15M also. The breakpoints can be moved around so you can bunch them around and resonant points the engine has. What does the PCIII allow. More is better of course but but it will take longer to dyno tune. If you don't get a dynotune the extra points are probably a waste.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to know the details. Is that information available on your site?

I think their main reason to claim this is because their PCIII won't work with a closed loop system. Open loop is good when you have the map right but even a service can throw that out. I got a 10% variation in TPS sensor just adjusting the balance as my idle stop is on the LHS and the TPS on the RHS. Having closed loop will counter these variations and others. My bike feels noticably better closed loop. Of course its all in the implementation. Who knows exactly how the WM closed loop works. Is it only for a small portion of the map. How quick is it to respond? IMHO closed loop is the way to go - with a wideband sensor. At the moment I don't do anything fancy with wideband as I only have one target A/F for the entire map. I can, through the Optimiser or PC Controller, go economy or power if I want. In the future I will have a variable target A/F depending on what section of the map is running.

Hi all I've still got Carl's ECU. He hasn't been ready for it yet and I've been doing some software enhancements in the meantime. I've just finished my bit so I'll get it in the post to him next week. His will be the first My15M so you wont find anything about it here. There are are few Sport 1100 and Centauros with it so you can find some bits on http://morini.com.au/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=1 and http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=1 One of the best write ups about My16M is this site http://www.kolumbus.fi/koivupiha/ecu.htm

And the shadow is the wrong angle given the direction of the sun

The resistor on the coil will not really benefit. Any output driving a coil will expect spikes and be protected for it. The problem with the 16M was voltage spikes coming in from the supply. Usually because the battery and/or regulator was stuffed.

Don't think I'd be paying 200 euro for an oil temp guage

Not sure I buy that. Throttle and RPM define engine conditions and the engine will produce the same torque regardless of load. What the load affects is whether you accelerate or not. Both conditions, overtaking the truck and running up through the gears, in my opinion, both require max power, as opposed to perhaps best economy. This means getting the Air/Fuel correct. Another thing to consider. Even with full throttle acceleration in first. The actual change in RPM is relatively slow compared to the cylinder firings. So my opinion is the motor doesn't see much difference between the two conditions

Thats not too unusual. Things to check are throttle synchronisation. Throttle position sensor adjustment. A simple thing is increase the idle speed. I think you'll find the manual recommonds 1100-1200RPM. I've heard idling too low can cause unnecessary wear around the clutch. The sports have fairly low flywheel weight and hence don't like to be too slow.

There's not too much you can do. The throttle position sensor is about the most common maintainence issue for EFI bikes and all you need is a multimeter. BTW your bike has the third generation 15M controller. The manual in Paul's post is for the 1st generation P7/P8 but as he correctly points out much is still common. You will probably find some of my site useful ( see my signature )

Great work Carl. Any chance of a worshop manual for the Sport 1100? I reckon next winter will be really cold.

You'll find the fast idle cable comes out on the RH side throttle body. All it is a bit more throttle. The ECU has calculated that its needs to enrich the mixture due to the cold oil temperature. The two are independent of each other.

I think there where some "limited run" PCs for around US$150 for a while. Don't know if thats still the case. There's also a run of 2nd hand PCs from those upgrading to the USB version. The annoying thing is you shouldn't need them at all with the 15M as you should be able to flash map the ECU. Even stranger, you buy an aftermarket exhaust and they give you another ECU. I should do what these guys in europe do and charge euro200+, just to change your ignition map. Although I'm not comfortable charging people for nothing.

Its not a choke, its a fast idle. Cars usually add a soleniod in to do the same thing.

Both my bikes get better than 5l/100km or 20km/l on my near legal weekend rides. Bad economy is not a function of FI/carbs, its an indicator of bad tuning. Unfortuantely the powers that be have made it pretty awkward for endusers to tune standard FI vehicles.

I've been using Stein-Dinse from Victoria and I'm pleased with their service. BTW I was looking for a V11 in Sydney to test my own ECU on. If you're interested in helping me out send me a private message on this forum

It usually means its not setup properly or there's an issue with sensors or the ECU. I get better than 20km/l on both my 1100 Sport and Cali at legal speeds

The "how would you" is fairly easy. You can either 1- edit the map file directly. Its a simple text file if you look at one on my maps page. 2- Use the ECUController program to do it ( point by point ) 3- Use the Optimiser - for the point the engine is currently operating at. The "how much" is a lot trickier. The main priority those would be to retard those points where it pings. Otherwise optimizing spark advance on the dyno is tricky or so I have found so far. The Optimiser can help as it alternately retards and advances the spark and hopefully you will get a better/worse response from the engine. I haven't spent too much time trying but it seemed promising.

The local guzzi dealer had a 2002 lemans come in for its first service today and allowed me to test my unit on it. First off we hooked it up and turned the ignition on. All the numbers on the Optimiser looked good and nothing frying on the board or bike. Next we put the original ECU on the bike and warmed it up. Then back to my controller and turned it over with no throttle. Nothing seemed to happen. Try again with a little throttle and it roared into life. Running was smooth although it needed a bit of throttle to keep from stopping. Considering I had neglected to configure the unit for the bike and the map was from my bike it was a pretty good result. Carl, I'll have this unit off to you within a week probably. I do have one spare 15M that is available for $100 on top of the My15M cost of $700. First in best dressed. Others will need to source their own sacrificial unit if they want one.

At this point I'm stalled while waiting for a local bike to test it on. Went down to the only Sydney Guzzi dealer and they're going to help find me someone. They also want me to develop a controller for their Rotax powered Aprilia race bike, a 60 degree V twin with two independant ignition coils per cyclinder. I'll get unlimited dyno time.

Thought you may be interested to know that I've just finished assembling the first unit. I hope to be able to put in on a bike in the next week or so. Here are some shots of the units - couldn't get inline to work here http://www.jefferies-au.org/My16M/my15m.jpg http://www.jefferies-au.org/My16M/my15m_bot.jpg http://www.jefferies-au.org/My16M/latest.htm Click on my signature to find out more

I haven't looked into the sender, but on my Corsa I got the impression that is was some analog type of device as the lamp would slowly light up or fade out