Cliff

Remove the power commander until you have the bike running.

I've seen the air temperature sensor being affected by engine heat, showing 50C +. This will cause the bike to run 5 to 10% leaner. You might try relocating that. It should be under the tank near the front.

It would be simple to convert into any format. Even some unix style scripts with sed, awk etc would do it. Let me know which programs you think would be useful and I'll look into supporting them.

THe dump itself produces a rather cryptic file like ~POR ~BOR ~My16M V3.85 C487 =110BD1415132B14C62D00000000230000004E =308DA03864700040000AE =00C3000BC02B6028E035E00B9014F =1101C1615792F14CD30000000002300000023 =308DA03864700040000AE =00C5A00BC02B6028E035E00B80178 This is then translated by the ECUController that is supplied with MyECU to a human readable form Map (0.0,0.0) RPM=200 Inj=9848us BaroAdj=110.9% o2Adj=100.0% o2[0] o2Target=0.00V o2=2.83V OilT=23.0C AirT=24.0C AirP=983mb Thro=93 Bat=12.39V Map (0.0,0.0) RPM=200 Inj=9848us BaroAdj=110.9% o2Adj=100.0% o2[0] o2Target=0.00V o2=2.85V OilT=23.0C AirT=24.0C AirP=983mb Thro=96 Bat=10.83V Map (0.5,0.0) RPM=671 Inj=6297us BaroAdj=110.9% o2Adj=100.0% o2[0] o2Target=0.00V o2=2.87V OilT=23.0C AirT=24.0C AirP=983mb Thro=95 Bat=12.05V Map (0.5,0.0) RPM=680 Inj=6209us BaroAdj=110.9% o2Adj=100.0% o2[0] o2Target=0.00V o2=2.89V OilT=23.0C AirT=24.0C AirP=983mb Thro=95 Bat=12.11V Map (0.5,0.0) RPM=691 Inj=6120us BaroAdj=110.9% o2Adj=100.0% o2[0] o2Target=0.00V o2=2.91V OilT=23.0C AirT=24.0C AirP=983mb Thro=96 Bat=12.16V Map (0.5,0.0) RPM=697 Inj=6116us BaroAdj=110.9% o2Adj=100.0% o2[0] o2Target=0.00V o2=2.92V OilT=23.0C AirT=24.0C AirP=983mb Thro=103 Bat=12.22V There's also a comma delimited form suitable for pulling into a spreadshet

Currently the logging is to an external device. All parameters are output including the gas sensor voltage. The next generation of the Optimiser I will add the option for a SD flash memory card so you can log 32Mb or more and simply transfer the card to a PC.

Wayne will probably do a version of the Tuneboy if it's possible. Some later ECUs use encryption on their protocol. Its for your protection I'm sure.

There are different ways to implement "closed loop". The ECU thread went into great detail. With my implemention, the closed loop is build on top of the open loop mode. Closed loop generates a correction factor that is applied to the map. It may take a second or 2 to reach the required correction factor ( hence the top gear/uphill ). The tuning is basically to smooth the map such that the correction factor is the same all around, so the the closed loop does not need to find a new correction. The result of the tuning is the correction becomes 0. You could at this point disable closed loop and go open loop but there is no need. The closed loop becomes a diagnostic. If the correction is not 0, why. Two gas inputs from my perspective is about making the ECU more flexible. If the closed loop correction is different between cylinders it could tell you that a throttle balance is required while still maintaining optimal mixture.

The successor to the PC III USB? It's nothing really.

I doubt I would have the feature in by 6 months. It would be the bottom of my list and there are many other features to be added. All of my ECUs are firmware upgradable so they can always get the latest features. Things I'll looking at soon are, multiple spark, 2 gas sensor inputs and independent closed loop for each cylinder, my own wide band gas sensor controller. Got to keep ahead of the PCIV Firewire.

Do you mean working with the Dyno Tunelink? Wayne of Tuneboy offered to give me the code and help to do so. I haven't got around to it yet. It doesn't really add that much. Running my controller closed loop works better IMHO.

The Rec-Ignition is not intended for the FI bikes but for everything else. This would be an enhancement for those running off points or replacement for broken Dynas etc. Interesting idea. It could probably be made into a Power Commander style addon where it can advance or retard a few degrees from what the ECU is generating. I feel ill now.

I think you're referring to the Tuneboy. Works for the 15M but not for the 16M of P8 though. Yes it does. The pot allows the rider to perform various mapping in realtime, including mixture, spark advance, mixture advance, closed loop targets and more. While riding, if you find a spot where the bike is missing, you can turn the knob to enrichen or lean till the bike performs as expected and then make that change to the map.

I've just ordered the 2A0 kit from www.wbo2.com. It will be interesting to compare closed loop operation with a real wideband sensor versus the 1st generation bosch wideband sensor I've had for the last couple of years. The cost of the kit + sensor (AU$300) is actually cheaper than the bosh (AU$400).

It is usually a result of opening the throttle. This has the effect of moving from one area in the map to another - where timing, mixture and load is more conducive to pinging. I been running both my bikes on unleaded for a time without any problems. However I've since moved back to Optimax. Only because I figure if I tune it specifically for the fuel, a 10% improvement in economy will pay for itself. A 10% increase in range is always handy.

Although it looks easy to install, the limited connections to the rest of the bike indicates that the unit will be fairly limited in functionality. It doesn't even know the throttle position.

Don't assume it's the engine. Does the bike "roll" with minimal resistance. Check the brakes for rubbing and bearings etc.

Perhaps I'm reading those pictures wrongly. I assume the shaded green is from the Ti map. If we look at the advance in that green block, we have 15 degrees, at 900RPM, REDUCING to 12 degrees at 1100, slight increase to 13 at 1700. Both maps show an area of advance decreasing with RPM increasing around idle. It would seem the bulk of the spark advance ( everything over 2000RPM ) is identical. Therefore the changes are predominately for idle but also for the initial taking off.

I think those advance values are more related to helping stabilise the idle. Notice how the advance actually reduces with RPM at the lower throttle ( Not at the higher throttle ). As the idle starts to run away as it heats up etc, the spark advance reduces to keep the RPM from increasing too much.

Couple of issues The standard setup runs the injectors to over 90% on at full throttle/redline so even if they were hardwired on there will still not be enough fuel. For lower RPM the ECU has a 16ms limit. The easiest change is to bump the fuel pressure. This could probably be done with a standard regulator if you pressurise the extra nozzle on the regulator. Some setups run this to a manifold. Some places can modify your injectors to increase the flow rate. You then have to map it all.

Your calculations are accurate but meaningless. If that was how you would design an ignition system you would require a pentium Ghz processor. Truth is an 8 bit processor is more than adequate unless you also want to add a web browser and a WAN. I run my 8 bit chip at 8Mhz. Half of what the chip is capable of. The main thing is you do not generate the output pulse in immediate response to an event. In the case of the WM15/16 you are getting trigger events every 15 degrees. Lets say you want 20 degrees advance. You probably would queue the event at the 30 degree pulse. Calculate the time delay required, factoring any latency you expect. This delay could even be precalculated. Many chips have hardware on the timers that will generate pulses for you without the CPU doing anything however I prefer to use an interrupt. It's more flexible and not tied to any particular hardware.

It could be that the ECU is not seeing the throttle and therefore goes too lean as you open it up. The throttle cable goes to the left throttle body and this has a pushrod to the right throttle body. The TPS ( throttle position sensor is on the RH body ). Check the state of the above and check the TPS is connected. There's a 3 pin plug on it.

Well its getting easier ( and better ) all the time. With tuneboy you're starting with an ECU that you know runs the bike. With mine there's a little setting up before starting the bike. Its fairly trivial stuff though. I suppose its just as likely your first map download with tuneedit might not run. If you want you can send the My15M ( and Optimiser ) over here and I'll fix and upgrade the unit. Just cover the postage. Put "Australian goods returned for repair." on the customs slip.

I'm not a PC man but I don't deny it works to a degree. It's just down the list of recommendations I give. The only hands on I've had with a PC was removing it from the Suzuki and putting MyECU on. I've had more than a few people try MyECU after having tried a PC. I prefer my units to go to those who will appreciate them. I'm actually quite happy for others to use the Tuneboy or PC. For most riders they are the best option as they don't require as much techincal expertise.

You should ask Wayne what he thinks of their world class software. Re your map: why not richen it up yourself where it is pinging. One thing your map shows clearly is the lack of adjustment of the lower left half of the map ( high RPM, low throttle). Its not easy to do this area on a dyno but on the road you're frequently in this area and it has a big impact on drivability.

The power commander for the Suzuki TL1000 has spark adjustment and it takes the crank pulse signal also, in addtion to the backend signals. Presumably thats for the spark adjustment. Even without the raw timing signals, its not that hard to make such adjustments with just the backend signals, so long as the ECU is producing consistant pulses