Cliff

Thats unfortunate. It is very likely that the surge current passed thru the wiring harness and took out the earth wire like a light filament blowing. I think you should try removing the harness covering in a few places and check the wires inside are intact.

I 2nd the battery, if its low the starter relay drops out, then in, then out. Sounds aweful.

I don't buy it either. Air is about 80% nitrogen and 20% oxygen. If it does leak badly you have a flat tyre of nitrogen and when you top it up with air you now have a mix of about 95% nitrogen. Next time it gets better still

Nigel, I would suggest a more hands on approach with the Optimiser and the ECU in OPEN loop. With the bike on its centre stand use the fast idle to set 2000-3000RPM. Now go into the Optimiser Autotune mode. This will allow you to dial in a correction factor. While doing this note the voltages the sensor is giving you. Also check that the voltage tracks the way you expect(clockwise is richer). You will easily hear the spots when going too lean or rich. Probably easiest to go too lean and then richen it till the motor smooths out. You'll only be running lean for a couple of seconds at low power levels so it is quite safe to the engine. Note this voltage and use that as your first target for all of the 7 targets.

That sounds reasonable for the grounds. For the +ve, I spiced into the same feed as the fuel pump/injectors/coils. I took it from near the relay. Better to be switched by the ECU rather than the key. I don't like any unnecessary load when turning the key on.

No. If you can't be bothered, or not capable, to tweak a PC, don't bother with mine.

No V11s use an O2 sensor as far as I know. The dynotune place will use an o2 sensor to create the map. This is an external sensor and not part of the bike.

Did you check that you bypass screws are turned out equally before balancing. Balancing is done at 2000-3000 rpm not idle.

I'm impressed at how well the TPS wears. I spend too much time look at what value it returns and even under the smoothest road conditions there is quite a lot of movement being transferred into the TPS. I try and reduce the wear by moving my hand outwards so I have part of my palm stabilised against the bar ends. I find this is gives a stable output - necessary whe trying to tune on the road and dyno.

Ouch Stig. The fact that the melting is near the ECU indicates the problem is likely with the ECU and not a short to ground in the harness.

The coils/injectors share a common +12V that is fed by the fuel pump relay. The other side of the coils is pulled to ground by the ECU. This is normally only done briefly when the spark is required as each coil is only 0.7ohm and hence will draw over 10A. I suspect either a dud ECU is pulling the coil to ground or you have a short to ground on the harnessto that coil

For the MyECU map, if your setup up produces higher voltages for richer then you need +ve numbers. If however your setup produces higher voltages for leaner, you need -ve. You should verify operation by tweaking the mixture and seeing the voltage go the way you expect. With the optimiser you can easily adjust the mixture from the autotune menu when running openloop by turning the pot. You can do this while idling.

Below is a snippet from a MyECU map showing spark advance. X axis is RPM, vertical is throttle. Idle is bottom row and full throttle is top row. A MAP system would be doing something similar with vertical replaced with MAP rather than throttle. Hard accel. would put you along the top row, cruise would put we around row 3-4. THR 832 704 640 576 512 448 384 320 256 192 128 96 64 32 0 RPM 500 1100 1500 1801 2000 2302 2601 2900 3360 3654 4045 4655 5353 6157 7082 8143 SpkAdv 14 8.20 13.83 20.16 22.50 23.44 24.38 25.78 27.66 28.83 29.06 29.77 32.81 34.92 35.16 35.16 35.16 SpkAdv 13 8.20 12.89 19.45 22.27 23.44 24.61 26.25 28.13 30.00 30.47 30.70 32.81 34.92 35.16 35.16 35.16 SpkAdv 12 8.20 12.42 18.52 21.56 22.97 24.38 26.48 28.59 30.47 30.70 30.70 33.05 34.92 35.16 35.16 35.16 SpkAdv 11 8.20 12.42 18.75 22.27 24.14 25.31 27.42 29.06 31.64 32.81 33.28 35.39 37.27 37.50 37.50 37.50 SpkAdv 10 8.20 12.42 18.75 22.50 23.20 25.31 27.42 29.06 32.81 34.69 35.86 37.73 39.61 39.84 39.84 39.84 SpkAdv 09 8.20 11.02 16.41 20.63 22.73 24.38 26.72 28.83 32.58 34.45 36.33 39.14 40.31 41.02 41.02 41.02 SpkAdv 08 8.20 9.84 14.30 18.28 20.39 22.97 26.02 28.59 33.28 35.86 38.91 40.78 41.72 42.66 42.66 42.66 SpkAdv 07 8.20 9.61 13.83 18.05 20.39 22.03 25.55 28.36 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 06 8.20 9.38 13.36 18.98 21.80 23.91 26.95 29.06 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 05 8.20 9.38 13.13 19.22 22.73 25.31 28.83 29.77 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 04 8.20 9.38 13.13 20.39 24.14 26.95 29.30 29.77 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 03 8.20 9.38 13.13 20.63 24.61 28.13 29.53 29.77 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 02 8.20 9.38 13.13 20.86 25.08 29.30 29.77 29.77 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 01 8.20 8.91 10.78 20.86 25.08 29.30 29.77 29.77 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06 SpkAdv 00 8.20 8.20 8.20 20.86 25.08 29.30 29.77 29.77 34.22 37.73 40.78 42.42 43.59 44.06 44.06 44.06

The tables are 2 dimensional so you get different advance curves for each throttle setting. You are generally in a different part of the map cruising and accelerating. ECU Ducati works well alsoas Ebay search. Esp. for 15M. Let me know if you are going for an ECU so we dont bid against each other

Your last email of 11th May was fairly positive and didn't indicate any problems. Send me an email and I'll try and sort out the issues you're having.

It was quazi-moto who said he tried the My15M

Don't recognise you from your alias. When did you try one of my units? Also just trying it is touch and go without the required setup. Your symtoms really sound like you have some other issue, either TPS or temp sensor. If you can get hold of the My15M and the ECUController software you have the best chance to diagnose the issue. Could also be a relay issue, why don't you swap them around.

Hi George. It might be easiest to get the first service out the way and get them to look at those issues. After that you'll find it easier to do your own stuff. The first thing is to make sure the bike is setup as per spec. That basically comes down to valves, TPS calibration and throttle balance. This can actually make a bike worse than before as each component has a variation and some bikes are unlucky enough to have all variation in one direction. If you still have a problem ( pings, misses etc ) after that, then you should try a tweak. Turning the TPS a smidge one way from the calibrated position or the other may improve things. Beyond that you're going to have to move to the third part addons which are basically the Power Commander, the Tuneboy or my own My15M.

I tend to monitor my Sport 1100 often ( via the temp sensor on the cam cover ). Moving at over 70km/h I tend to see the engine about 40C over ambient. It gets warmer as you go slower. 60km/h might be an extra 5C. It climbs quickly when stationary. 2 minutes, or 2 sets of red lights would definitely get over 90C. I've seen over 110 in heavy traffic. In the city when it gets up there it does tend to come down due to the slower speeds. The temp sensor seems fairly quick in its response. I can see it cooling after being stationary in about 1/2 minute. I'd imagine the sump pickup would be a lot slower. Maybe its hotter down there also.

Around town they do get warm and cool slowly. On the open road they probably are over cooled

Do a search on pinging on this forum there might be some references to it. My advice is to turn the TPS a smidge ( not 2 smidges ) to increase the voltage- say 10-20mV. This will have the effect of increasing fuel ( possibly to detriment of economy ) and reducing spark advance. Both of which will reduce tendency to ping. If that doesn't mean anything to you, a quick search of this forum will give you the answers.

I think you should get at least 12V out of a good battery. My Breva falls to about 12V on turning on the key but that includes the headlight. 10V sounds like you've lost a cell.

I'm surprised the ECU draws power when off. I didn't realise pin 17 had permanent power. Didn't use it with My15M. 70mA, while thirsty for electronics in standby, should not drain a battery over night. Thats about 1Ah per night. Can't recall actual capacities - 20-40AH? I think your battery has problems.

Hubert you spoilt the surprise. Actually I've just announced the MkII versions of MyECU on my site. First off there is the new hardware - dual gas sensor capability. The firmware you mention is next but I only expect it to take a few weeks unless I get distracted. I've also been asked to do a quick upshift capability. Then the new Optimiser with data logging to a flash card.

Sounds like most of the basics have been covered. Did Phoenix Motorsports have the bike running or just assembled the bike? The fact that you see spark indicates the ECU and timing pick up are ok. If Phoenix Motorsports didn't run the bike, could the cam timing wheel have been misaligned? Temp sensors could result in insufficent fuel Have you checked if the ECU is giving any fault codes? Check all your connectors particularly the injectors. I came across a Laverda with a fuel pump in the tank and its fuel line had come off. You could try removing the fuel line from the pressure regulator and place in a container and see if it pumps fuel when priming.