Cliff

It was my understanding that the Tuneboy worked with the Dynalink software. Therefore you can do the usually dyno run.

No it's not. It does contain an O2 sensor and in the lean mixtures operates as an oxygen sensor. In the rich environement its works in a totally different way. Can't recall the details but the buttom line is it reads CO ( indirectly) in this case.

Whats happens below 2500 and between 3800-4000?

Thats like asking how many inches I keep the the inside wheel from the edge of the road when all I'm doing is keeping the car near the centre of the lane. I just generate 7 voltage targets to span the range I see the sensor producing. I then decide which parts of the map I want to be richer or leaner by selecting one of those voltages. If there are problem areas, I make a change to that area of the map (richer or leaner target or change the voltage ) untill there is no problems. If that didn't work well enough I'd try something else but doing the above, produces results that are good enough for me and others. I'm not after telling people I get xxx hp. I just like to tell them it runs great. For those who know the type of bike (16M based), they know just getting them smooth, particularly around town, is an achievement.

Probably the paint fumes. Just open a few windows.

I actually agree with you about the o2 content. It's a noise quantity in the richer regions and cannot be used. What annoys me is your insistance that lambda sensors are o2 sensors and hence can not be used in this application. If memory serves, lambda sensors are measuring ionization current, and by inference CO. I also agree with most of the technical info and conclusions you present. The disagreements are more about what the rider needs/requires. The "before" scenario is a bike, that misses, is unresponsive, guzzles and many of the usual symptoms. The desired "after" a bike that is smooth and reponsive and gives good economy. Sure a dyno session, as you suggest, will provide that, but so will many lesser solutions.

How about, you can have the perfect white but it will fade from day 1, or you can apply the off white everyday. You'll need a new brush occasionally. Its all so clear. I mean translucent. Sorry, I was amused for a moment.

I think the problem is some arguing black and white while other argue shades of grey.

The main point of going closed loop is you don't need to have an expensive dyno session to map the bike. I'm not saying the resultant map will be as good as what could be achieved on moto's dyno. I'm saying that most riders will be happy enough with the resultant map to not want to bother with the dyno. In fact many users of my ECU are more than happy with my Sport map running open loop( My ECU does not have to be run closed loop). If you have a rough spot at 3000RPM around town, richen the map in that area a bit. If thats worse try a bit leaner. Repeat as necessary till perfect ( enough ). No dyno required. If that sounds too technical don't bother trying my ECU. That technique works perfectly well with a power commander or tuneboy. The real decision is do you want to map your bike or have someone else map your bike. Unless you are considering competition grade racing, or have money to burn, or don't want to put in the effort yourself, a dyno session is not necessary. BTW here's one of my latest users. http://www.dlra.org.au/profiles/140.htm He expects ( and has achieved ) his centauro to pull smoothly from idle.

I don't think any sensors will fit the 10mm thread. It may only be for attaching diagnostic equipment. I took the header down to an exhaust shop with a nut. Only cost about $20 bucks to get the nut welded. Make sure you have any flanges that need to be on, on!! You won't get them on after the nut is welded.

That would be a waste of money. There would be little of the dyno session to carry forward. You would probably find that My15M solves all your issues and you don't bother with a dyno tune. Not sure how many of MyECU users have actually done the dyno. It would be a small %. Probably less than 20%. Most talk about it beforehand.

Listen to the fuel pump when the ignition is turned on. Does it change sound significantly. Try turning key on twice (waiting for the fuel pump to stop) before hitting the starter.

It really depends on what you are tuning for. A lot of the people who buy my unit are not looking for the maximum numbers that only a dyno session will give them. They are looking to fix specific problems they are having. I don't think I need list what these problems are but they are the sorts of things a bit of manually editting of the map and experimentation can quickly fix. Another big plus that is underrated is the diagnostic capability. Just this last week, Bill Doll found out the flat spot he was having just off full throttle was actually a failing TPS.

Not true in all cases. The combustion initiated from the spark can cause the pressure to rise too quickly too early. This will cause detonation of the unburnt mixture. I've had detonation at times and cured it by backing the spark advance off a few degrees

Yes

The ECU does not draw much power from +12V - perhaps 100mA. All the load is controlled by pulling things to ground. I can't see where 5A would go inside the ECU. It sounds like some short in the harness.

This is not the fuse for the fuel pump is it? What sized fuse is it. Try putting a meter in series with fuse to see what the normal current is and how it changes.

I thought you were having issues? Did you resolve them?

I must be missing something but there's no mention of any running problems. Just speculation that if the blinkers are affected maybe the ECU. Some flashers are a heated bimetallic strip so they are sensitive to load and battery volts. Changed your bulbs to a different wattage? Injectors are sensitive to battery voltage but the OEM ECU has compensation for this. Battery volts can easily drop to 8V when cranking. That doesn't seem to affect the ECU. On my sport I see the battery volts come up to 14V within seconds of starting with less than 2000RPM. You could try turning on or off your headlights and see if there is a difference. If think your missing is just due to the nature of the beast. Ever since the 16M ECU ( 1996 ), guzzi have had a miss to some degree. Even with the PC it is not totally eliminated.

Its not uncommon for plugs to look uneven on the Guzzies. You should be able to save your map before try another map. That would be a simple check. You can also tweak your custom map.

Second the injector cleaning. You might find some injection service that can check the injectors flow rates. Maybe also swap them around. It is possible for the ECU to do small corrections left/right as its used on Dukes to perform front/rear adjustment. You could try Wayne at www.tuneboy.com.au. Is it only at idle that this imbalance appears? Don't forget there are idle jets. Is there any rough running?

When the engine is cold ( as in not run that day ), check the resistance of both the temp sensors. They should be the same.

Funny how the fuel pump became a suspect. Diagnosing can sure be a challenge.

Have you changed relay. Starting to sound like the relay can't handle the load. The ECU does see the fuel pump at all. The only contact is to drive the relay that energises it and the coils. The fuel pump will take about 5A continuous. The coils also take about 5-10A for a very short time ( 5ms ) Perhaps we need to choose mechanics that have internet access

Pin 19 is what gives you the fuel pump prime. Just turning the ignition on will activate it for a few seconds. You will see the voltage at pin 19 go near 0V then return to 12V