txrider

Here's some more general info on setting fork oil height- http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/oilheight.htm

Thanks, TX, it's in my favorites file. How's the Katrina recovery going?

Well it's a different fork but I had some of the same concerns on my 2004 when I did the fork service on it. Both forks pumped, hung upside down overnight, pumped some more until I was dead certain all the old oil was out. Then on refill I put in 430cc each leg. With fork compressed, lower spacer in, and spring out that amount of oil showed 77 mm freeboard ( fluid surface to top of fork) which is about 30-35cc less than the other usd Marzocchi forks I've done. in fact all forks usd or otherwise I've done the past few years showed 100-110mm freeboard which makes me wonder if that's too much oil even though MG recommended it. For you suspension specialists, wouldn't that account for too much compression damping for the forks? Assuming one uses MG recommended 10wt? The result on my bike is that it gives one jarring ride and I plan to make changes this winter to correct that.

Ratchet, I've been following all threads concerning setting static suspension sag with considerable interest and most describe bike unladen (rider off)sag numbers as well as bike laden (rider on)numbers. As a matter of interest why is unladen sag even mentioned? My impression is that total suspension travel and sag measured with rider/load aboard were the only numbers critical in setting sag so a % of total travel could be calculated like your 33% mentioned.

Good point, Wick. I was careful on that having seen the same thing. I applied the Loctite sparingly just to the first 2 threads.

My bike had a cracked screen at one of the mounting holes when I got it and checking, I found the mounting screws overly tight. After getting a new screen I added two washers to each mountng screw, one plastic next to the screen itself and a stainless one to act as a bearing surface for the acorn nut. Then used blue Loctite to secure the moderately tight nut instead of mucho force. To date that seems to work.

Fortunately I'm short so the bike fits me well except for having to tip toe at stop lights. And my wife? Can't get her near any bike much less the Futura. You guys that have riding wives are fortunate (mostly) .

One sits in my garage now. One of the best seats there is but passenger sits up in the breeze a bit.

I'm using an Eclipse Tanktote now on my LM and it fits and works fine. I think Eclipse changed ownership within the past 2 years.

Had a similar experience with escaping fuel. I failed to double check the fuel quick disconnects were properly seated after doing my initial go-through on the new-to-me LM. I realized my error when my right jeans pant leg got real cool as I was allowing the bike to warm briefly prior to doing a check out ride. No harm done except to my wrenching skills confidence and some spilled gas. Now, anytime I re-connect those fuel fittings they get double checked.

My bikes usually stay pristine with a little regular cleaning using only wet soapy towels (auto grade shampoo), spray bottle rinses and then a going over the body work with Plexus instead of wax or polish. Our "bike dirt" usually consists of road dust and bugs and these come off after each ride as soon as the bike cools. Undercarriage cleaning is done with paint brushes, vegetable brushes and 50% dilute Simple Green. Kerosene and/or WD-40 is used first if there is a buildup of grease/oil/dirt there. I use a LOT of Bounty papertowels during the undercarriage cleaning. A note about Plexus- I've used this for several years on acrylic windshields and faceshields but discovered recently by accident it works great on body work paint.

My front crossover also moves and so rests against the alternator cover. I emailed Todd at MPH inquiring about this so I could order new seals. His reply was that his does this too and it's normal. Edit- Todd said this was normal as long as the crossover didn't show lateral (side to side) movement. The real test I suppose is whether there is exhaust gas leakage from the down tube to crossover connection junction. I think mine were ok until I removed them for polishing and twisted/pivoted them around during that work.

I'd go with Martin's suggestion- gentle heat, lots of care and patience.

This is the post I was trying to find from Todd at MPH on the headlight lens. Confirms Rob's information.

That was the source of my starting problem. I chose to completely replace (although not required) the low grade connectors and problem solved.

MikeC, that is one drop dead gorgeous bike. First time I've seen that coating in black and it looks good.

I'd use one of the performance coatings like Jet Hot or HRC applies. I've never used an exhaust paint that was good for the long haul. If you decide to go that route check the Stucchi crossover fit first as some have found problems with alignment with rest of the exhaust system. That way you can do any bending or tweeking before the coating is applied.

Thanks for taking the time/effort to add your experience on what works to the FI tuneup. I am about to do this and your procedure is what I'll use. I had the basic approach down but several points you added will help a lot.

My bike has a very slight tendency to drift right but I have to be looking for it to notice. Why this is I haven't a clue but I imagine the short stubby bars (it's an LM) make this more noticeable. You should ride the oil head Beemer I used to own, a 1995 RSL. That one required enough left bar countersteering to cause serious fatigue over the course of a day's ride. And BMW owners being somewhat fussy on details, there have been lots of theories offered and lots of time/effort spent in their quest to find the source of the problem. As far as I know the closest one came to explaining the cause was one local owner who took his new RT (a 2001, I believe) to a GMD Computrack facility and they found the structural dimensions of the NEW bike not quite correct. You might consider trying GMD but from what I hear they're not cheap. The Laser measurement/alignment check used to be about $300 or so but the real expense came in correcting any problems.

TX and Todd, stay safe. Looks like we're in the clear here in Ft. Worth.

My 2004 with 7300 miles on it does this on occasion and like others here it's usually within 6 blocks of home, return leg. I call this the "PHHTT" syndrome and it's like the bike is complaining- "Don't put me back in the garage, we're having too much fun, dammit".

I posed this question to Todd Haven at MPH. He said there had been a redesign and as of early summer MPH had not repaired any 2004's.

Mike, I found oily residue at both top and bottom frame vent banjo bolts on my bike and here's how I fixed it- I removed one of the banjo bolts and fitting to find the frame surface under it painted and rough so I inserted a small piece of paper toweling into the vent hole then carefully sanded (backed with a flat piece of plastic) that mounting surface down to smooth, flat metal. Then dabbed some anti-sieze on the mounting bolt threads and torqued it down. I repeated this on the other banjo bolt fitting and presto, no leaks after 2000 miles. Cautionary notes before I get called down here- don't loose the paper toweling into the frame. And as you remove it, "unscrew it" to prevent any sanding dust from getting into those holes. In fact, I used a Shop Vac to prevent that possibility before removing the paper towel. Also be sure the two crush washers are in place at install.

I had a little cold start trouble when I first got my bike and was fiddling with the "choke control" as part of the start drill. Then I simply started cracking the throttle about 1/8 turn and no more problems. Starts immediately hot or cold and after a few seconds of fast idle we're off to an easy warmup in low gear for a block or two.

My owner's manual (2004LM) page 168 under the heading "Greasing the driving shaft" says the same thing, "The lubricants must not contain additives with MOS2".