txrider

Well thought out and expressed, stormsedge.

On the vibration bit at the handlebars, I'll mention again that the original grips are pretty thin and replacing them with an aftermarket slightly larger diameter grip relieves some of the tingle. Another thing I've found to work is to relax your grip at the handlebars a bit. Makes for less fatigue and smoother inputs to the front end.

Do you get a lot of fluid leakage past the threads of the bleeder or maybe seal with teflon tape? Sounds like a good idea for a new unfilled system. Thanks, TX.

Same experience here but I did a connector upgrade to eliminate possibility of a recurring problem.

Just my opinion, but my 95 R1100RSL was dependable, comfortable and one of the best looking bikes I ever owned but riding it was a boring, unexciting experience. I always could depend on it getting to final destination but the trip was d-u-l-l-l compared to riding my V11 LM.

My favorite on line hardware store- McMaster-Carr. In fact I bought some n-butyl rod with a hole through it from them to cut up and make a dandy bushing for the rear crossover mount.

The seat-relay thing you mentioned might be the item to take another look at. Can you see under the seat with all aft body work removed? The wiring under the fuse holder and the relay holder could be stressed if the seat is resting on either with you aboard. A subtle shift in seat position upon accleration could then allow a shorting condition if wiring is chafed but touching intermittenly. Is the ECU mounted where it clears the seat with you on the bike? Or can you make up some spacers to raise the seat and then redo the acceleration/rpm test?

You said you soaked the axle/swingarm contact areas- I have had little success with WD-40 and the like. However, Liquid Wrench and/or Kroil have helped in several situations including getting a stuck shell casing from a rifle. You might try soaking again with one of these before resorting to mucho force. Mine was partially siezed on l/h swingarm/axle junction.

George, I think MG changed the engine paint on the 2003 models. Appearance of the old paint was flat and textured kinda like what we call "crinkle paint". The replacement used on 2003 and up models is satin and smooth (more or less). The earlier coating used thru 2002 was the problem one and tended to flake and come off in patches according to some on this forum. Far as I know, no one has come up with a way to keep the older engine coating from coming off.

That is without doubt the most beautiful color combo MG has produced.

I've not found a site with listed oem panels and replacement parts/prices you describe. If no comes up with such I'd start by taking some good digital shots both closeup and some with bike filling the frame and contact a good dealer like MPH. Todd has always been fair in pricing items like a used oem airbox to me and that seems like a good place to begin.

Here's a link to the MG service bulletin (it's in Adobe) - http://www.guzzitech.com/V11S-SpeedoCable.html

I'm not one of the resident experts on the LM but based on what others have written here the cable/housing assembly is slightly short requiring relatively small radius turns for routing speedometer to transmission. So the best long term fix would be a longer assembly but what to ask for I couldn't say. I would suggest contacting MPH for a recommendation. On the other hand if you lubricate as suggested and reroute to minimize sharp turns then you might be just fine. Many here have had no speedo problems for many miles by doing just that. This doesn't mean the speedometer is immune to failure, just that it will give more reliable service if the cable isn't whipping about inside it's housing.

I think the reference is to the cable housing, the black hose looking sheath which contains the cable core. Inner-cable, outer- housing.

Strictly opinion here but seems like a binding cable that alternately binds up then releases with a whipping motion would contribute to speedometer failure.

Just as they say- a picture is worth a thousand words. Nice.

My take on the cable breakages and bouncing speedo is there is binding and metal to metal galling inside the housing, particularly where there are turns and bends in the housing. First signs of problems are signs you are seeing. To address this on my 2004, I undid the speedo cable from the speedometer and drip-lubed a mix of moly engine addditive and 10w-30 Mobil 1 until it came out the trans end. Also rerouted the housing to eliminate any abrupt bends. I think the angle drives are on earlier bikes than the 2003's.

Thanks for this article, it's much appreciated. I've followed a similar break-in regimen just not quiet so extended. And the warming up of an aircooled engine without some moving airflow seems too quick a temperature change. But that's just my uninformed opinion, what do I know?

We're getting off track here but one issue I have with the LM sidestand is it's so far forward when deployed I can't see the thing and I can well understand forgetting what is out of sight. And on checking the frame CompuTrack is another source that specializes in that work.

Carl, check this source. They have a good selection including the BMW style accessory connectors which could be used with an adapter either from stock or made up. http://www.powerletproducts.com/products.php?mid=1 I'm still getting to know my LM and so can't advise on how much accessory load the alternator can support.

Good point- go around the pipe, not along it. A little more work but worth it and makes the pipe as new rather than cobbled up.

More like a throttle assist is the ThrottleRocker, a paddle like affair which attaches to the throttle grip and enables one to use the palm to relieve wrist fatigue. And $10.00 well spent.

I used Scotchbrite 3" wheels wet with Simichrome polish and chucked in a drill motor to get the pipes like new. The bronze color and other discoloration is just the way stainless steel oxidizes. The finished result is bright metallic which turns to bronze again after a bit of running. And you're not alone in going to the garage to sit with a beer and admiring the LM.

I read about this on ST.N website and not to carp on and repeat what everybody else has said but glad you're relatively unscathed. As for the bike- it's too nice not to do a pristine rebuild and parts should be available. Whatever you do, keep that beautiful champaigne color. I imagine the previous owner had disabled the sidestand switch which shuts off engine when gear is selected because of bad switch or connectors. I did the same on my Futura and am about to re-think that decision. About 6 months ago had someone stop me in traffic to tell me sidestand was down on that bike.

I have an FZ1 I bought used as part of the stable and yes, the 1000cc Jap I-4's are powerhouses. It serves as a more than adequate parts chaser for the LM as well as the other bikes. Incredible value for the money.