richard100t
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Posts posted by richard100t
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OK, I misread something so that's how I came up with the F08.
P32B then.
Yoyodyne's got the whole caliper for $88 and MG sells it $106 I believe with pads.
I cleaned the caliper last year but it was still noisy so now I'll give the whole system a good flushing.
Could be the master as well I suppose.
I was going to say that if you need one and cant find one I have a used caliper and master cylinder lying around collecting dust.
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weird, just had a look at my mistrals, and they don't have anything that looks like a db killer.
they're the carbon fibre ones. I wouldn't mind making the bike a bit louder actually, it does sound a little gutless.
any thoughts? I still have the standard crossover.
I believe you have to buy a set of db killers from the aftermarket suppliers, but it sounds like you dont want them anyway. I have the FBF's on mine with the stock crossover and it seems loud as hell to me if i get the rpm's up past 3k. Can someone tell us if an aftermarket crossover will make the bike even louder? I know that getting rid of the stock air filter for K&N's will give you some extra honk on the go handle as I have them. Well I used to have them, now I have the velocity stacks with the foam filters.
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Well I think they will have to liquid cool the engines to meet all the regulations sooner or later anyway. They might as well do it now and get it over with. Honda makes a pretty fine v4 right now that you can buy and not have to worry about quality control or if the company will back the product up.
Its a damn fine looking bike and I sat on it but didnt care for the seat much.
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The cam and follower/bowl
Are those the "new" replacement parts in your engine? If thats the so called replacement parts I think I know where the stuff in your pan is coming from. I would be exremely pissed, those look just like the original bad parts that were supposed to be replaced. Makes me wonder if the work was ever actually done
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Well it looks like you can eliminate the chain tensioners as the source of the rubble in your pan. I was kind of hoping it was the plastic tensioner fragments because plastic wont damage the engine nearly as bad as steel.
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The main purpose of the pressure in the shock is to prevent the oil from foaming. While the pressure does add a little to the stiffness of the shock that is not its primary role. If you want a softer shock change the spring or the oil/dampening.
Most manufacturers set the bike up to handle the bikes maximum GVWR I THINK. If you're under 180 and ride without a partner on the back the stock setup probably will feel too harsh. I replaced the fork springs with progressives from Hyperpro and still wasnt satisfied until I swapped the 10wt fork oil for a 5 wt. After that it seems to all work like its supposed to work. I would think the same applied to the shock. Try a lighter weight oil and maybe back the pressure off 5%.
Thanks to both of you for the info. Will try to find a lower poundage spring but do you know what can fit the white power or the standard ratings for the original springs?
It might be a good idea to change the oil in the shock to a lighter weight first. It will be cheaper than a spring and will definitely not do any harm.
as long as you dont gain 100lbs or decide to haul a huge partner on it 
If its still too stiff after that change the fork oil to 5wt. If its STILL too stiff after that then buy the lighter springs.
I'm betting the oil changes will surprise you.
Hi Richard
You're saying that the original is 10wt and changing it to a 5wt helps. Any idea what is the quantity of oil needed at least originally?
I dont know how much you'll need for your bike. My 01 rosso mandello uses 400ml in each fork leg, so if you buy a quart of fork oil that should be enough. Do the forks first, because I think thats probably going to solve most or all of your problem with the too stiff ride.
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The main purpose of the pressure in the shock is to prevent the oil from foaming. While the pressure does add a little to the stiffness of the shock that is not its primary role. If you want a softer shock change the spring or the oil/dampening.
Most manufacturers set the bike up to handle the bikes maximum GVWR I THINK. If you're under 180 and ride without a partner on the back the stock setup probably will feel too harsh. I replaced the fork springs with progressives from Hyperpro and still wasnt satisfied until I swapped the 10wt fork oil for a 5 wt. After that it seems to all work like its supposed to work. I would think the same applied to the shock. Try a lighter weight oil and maybe back the pressure off 5%.
Thanks to both of you for the info. Will try to find a lower poundage spring but do you know what can fit the white power or the standard ratings for the original springs?
It might be a good idea to change the oil in the shock to a lighter weight first. It will be cheaper than a spring and will definitely not do any harm.
as long as you dont gain 100lbs or decide to haul a huge partner on it If its still too stiff after that change the fork oil to 5wt. If its STILL too stiff after that then buy the lighter springs.
I'm betting the oil changes will surprise you.
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time to trade that bike in on a new or at least different bike.
Richard, I looked at that before. All I was going to be allowed for the very low-mileage bike was half its value. I just couldn't contemplate it. I paid full price to buy the bike and none of these problems have been my doing. The factory/importer have taken my money and left me with Grade C junk. To have to personnaly lose even more, because of contemptible Moto Guzzi, is just wrong, wrong, wrong.
I don't know what to do, but I've other, different things to worry about at the moment.
I can understand your frustration with Moto Guzzi and the damage done that you are not responsible for. I would love to have one of those 8v bikes but then I see what happened to you and the lousy way they treated you...AND you're a repeat customer to boot
! Its not right to take someones money for a brand new supposedly defect free motorcycle and then leave you to fix their problems. It does seem to me that its more a local dealer/mechanic problem but again they should still make it right with you.Its a damn shame Pete lives just about as far away from you as a man could be without moving to the moon
Even so I wonder if you couldnt get it there and back for a grand or less.There is probably no fast cheap easy solution, but this is the best forum to figure out the least bad of your bad list of options.
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I would be getting my arse to the hardware store for a magnet right away! That looks like one hell of an intimidating project. I cant imagine getting it all apart and finding the tensioner intact
. Theres no way this comes out well I guess, if thats not plastic in the pan then its metal. If its metal I have a feeling the engine will be coming out anyway and will be costing a lot more money in parts. But if it runs well I would consider it as being a prime time to trade that bike in on a new or at least different bike. -
DB killers are probably useful when you live in a quiet neighborhood or a gated community. Other than trying to keep the peace with the neighbors I dont see the need for them. They arent that loud if you keep the rpm's down anyway, at least not that much louder. I did read an article in Cycle World where California is going to ban the loud pipes because people either dont know how to behave or the politicians are trying to make people think about something besides the state being bankrupt.
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Most manufacturers set the bike up to handle the bikes maximum GVWR I THINK. If you're under 180 and ride without a partner on the back the stock setup probably will feel too harsh. I replaced the fork springs with progressives from Hyperpro and still wasnt satisfied until I swapped the 10wt fork oil for a 5 wt. After that it seems to all work like its supposed to work. I would think the same applied to the shock. Try a lighter weight oil and maybe back the pressure off 5%.
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After looking at the metal bits in your pan and screen I think your engine has either cleaned out the damage that was done or is eating itself alive. Looking at the bits in the pan I would say its the latter.
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If they would start refering to the sides as the "brake" side and the "clutch" side it would help eliminate confusion. Although I'm sure they would find a way to make that confusing in the translation too!
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I have to give some respect to the bikes suspension. I think the rear wheel would be rubbing the underside of the tailsection if she was on the back of mine.
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Kawasaki makes a 650 Ninja that looks really similar to that bike. I seen a kid out on one yesterday actually and it sounded pretty nice coming up. Just another one to consider
do you mean the KLR?
or you mean the ER-6N?
that might work and I'll keep my eye out but its a tiny bike marketed towards women and new riders, the seat height would be about my knee level BUT I wouldn't count it out I'll try and find one to get a look in person as I do like the looks and a parallel twin is always nice, definitely would be a great twist and go bike.
No thats not the bike I meant. There is a ninja 650R with a full fairing that looks pretty damn cool. You can find a few of them on ebay right now if you look.
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Kawasaki makes a 650 Ninja that looks really similar to that bike. I seen a kid out on one yesterday actually and it sounded pretty nice coming up. Just another one to consider
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If the sv's arent ugly enough for you, how about getting a v strom?
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Hi, I am building an extra bike for the circuit with parts that I have hanging around. I used the forks from a 1100 sport, frame from the V11, sub frame of the Centauro and exhaust system of the V11 le mans. But I have the idea that this is quite low? Isn’t the exhaust hitting the ground when you corner (especially on the circuit?)
Thanks,
Joep
You can probably make your own exhaust hangers. Just use the old ones as a template for the mounting holes, then make the hanger part shorter to raise the cans upward. If you have access to a drill press, a vise and a bandsaw it shouldnt be too hard.
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Having spent a frustrating morning in the garage pipe bending-burnt forearm! I'm no nearer that bloody nipple!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so I guess its wheel off, will the bevel and shaft just slide off? I have the alignment marks already on it, just line them up on re assembly? thanks
Some people in here swear they can grease that front fitting without removing the rear wheel, but I never could. That might be all you need to get in there. I had to grind the edges down on my grease fitting to get it to lock onto the zerk but thats it.
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I just filled up the ducati ST2 after 126 miles, 3.8 gallons just a hair under $15 and WTF 33mpg isn't good!!! thats almost the same as my aprilia RSV got with a lot less oomph and 2 less than the V11, but with more oomph
Something isnt right there, that bike should get closer to 50mpg. Gas is $3.85 here, unfortunately I've had a cast on my hand and will have until the 19th of april so I cant ride right now
I cant imagine having to pay $35 or more to fill up my bike like you guys in Europe.
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this is dumb.. but is your kill switch activated?
LOL That sounds funny BUT it could definitely be the easiest problem to fix! I wish I would have thought of it.
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Anyone else out there who takes otherwise fanatical care of their bike simply give up on the front U Joint? After spending probably $150 on parts trying to create the magic 55 degree bend with a torch to reach that front uni I give up, how many miles can I expect from the shaft if I never touch that u joint with grease again? Low miles so it has probably never been greased since the factory.
Thanks, and no use trying to talk me through it I have thrown in the towel.
I would think it will last a long time especially in Los Angeles, no rain and snow or salt. If you ever get ambitious enough to take the swingarm off the bike the front u joint will be yours for the greasing.
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You could possibly have your tps out of whack a little. Check the tps, and sync the tb's, that usually solves the problem. Also check the rubber intake boots on the tb's for excessive cracking, that can cause trouble too.
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Check the relays under the seat too. Hopefully you just fried a relay.
Rear caliper
in Technical Topics
Posted
Have you tried just swapping the pads for new ones? I tried to save money and bought cheap pads once and they make noise and dont really work that well. My motto is when the solution to the problem isnt clear to always try the easiest remedy first.