Alex-Corsa

Well that "global warming" gets me into thoughts.Warm all over the place,ect.ect.

Me too and I would suggest these. , , Agostini they may have something to suit your Guzzi needs.

Forza Italia What's going on on September?

Wouldn't choose any of the above , instead for better prices I would take a visit to Flyin Brian and ask his best offer for something that would cost me even twice as much in other shop.Have purchased lots of clothing from his shop over the last 2 years, his service remains over the top always,answering every email and shipping ASAP what is ordered-paid

All I know is afecting the timing will change also the AFR as well, so there you have it, in summary.Reduce the timing and it will be a leaner effect to the exhaust AFR , i.e. but I think this prehaps won't be as "healthy' as when only the fuel map is changed to achieve the same "leanness"(while still have optimum timing on the spot unchanged).IF the timing is correct don't mess with it, you'll only have to check out fuel and temprature parameters,cause you'll do more harm that good.. AFAIK LC1 works faster than LC2 and is been concidered as the most accurate of the innovate line. P.S> you could try their forum as well http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php

Congrats for your new ride, though the pic doesn't show up

I use the Innovate LC-1 kit with XD 1 indicator. Sensor is pluged to the header exaust ca.50cm after the cylinder exhaust hole It is real time and I believe one of the most accurate in the bussines.I think there can be a difference in what actually going on and what really is between different AFR measurment units. In your case I would fisrt look at the synchronization of the TB's and definatelly the TPS voltage to be set correctly on both TB positions (0 and 3.5') And or you have to programm the fuel map a bit leaner to (as stated) reach a mid 13-14 AFR. And yes the AFR I have targeted is for best power.Though at the end for me it is quite OK with the cosumption therefore I leave it as is..

I'd say that abillity to accellerate frenzy is a bigger danger than top speed.A limmited HP bike will have less "tedency to accident" than the same bike with 50% more PS.All that of cource concidering correct enviroment (street condition , others drivers' attitude) as well as riders' training and ability and attitude(being the same in both occations-bikes). Unfortunatelly lattely, the motorcycle industry world had very few to offer in terms of ridability improvement and offer mostly more PS as an improvement feat in their "new" models. ABS has been around for some time as well as excellent suspension systems and othre braking systems but how many companies are using those in their default bikes? FEW. And as everyone is raving when a bike comes out with XL HP, offering track bikes with street use, bike press is "cultivating" the future "victims" of the "track bike " desease. Same goes for cars

The original MG mapping has parameters for engine temp and air though air temp isn't that well mapped causing on cold days higher consumption that it should, and richer AFR measured at the exhaust as well. I get an aprox. 43-49mpg on cruising to speeds 60-95mp/h,using my own developed chips.AFR varies 12.2-12.8 between those rpm

So far paypal is very convenient and quite fast, probably the best of all for internet transactions.Yes banks are "officially approved" thieves in genneral Western Union is fast but they are bit thieves as well, i.e. when the USD was 1.3 of euro they used to exchange it with no more than 1.18-1.2 plus the transaction fees that vary to amount (i.e.for 200Euro they take about 22Eur fees , for 500 about 35 or bit more.) I used to do a lot of Western union in the last 3 years (over 1000Euros only for fees for 10nths of transactions) I wish I had worked on doing paypal. If you want a good bank go to CITIBANK. no transaction fees from Citi to Citi all over the world ,same day transger and avaiability, good exchange rates and if you got more than 80K cash in deposit you get a Gold membership, and a "red carpet" like behaviour treatment when you walk in , plus you get a personal account manager for free

I agree for the above 100% , i believe that crcking can happen to bad quality stuff , that are as well wrongly fitted as well. Never heard of an Öhlins,or a WP, doing that

Wouldnät be helpfull to add some appropriate loctitite to the bolds so it does stay in place? There are many Loctite formulas , I man the one that is lighter duty and allows to unscrew when needed, but protects well against vibrations and so on.

How about bank account money transfer? Though the site needs a bit of update, last September that I was at Daes he carbon cockpit for the 1100iSport wasn't avaialble anymore and as he told me they wouldn;t have any pieces available in the future (no more production) if I can recall correct.

AFAIK any real polishing techniques for these cans insn't going to be really successfull on bringing up the polish result, but merely. Further more for small scratches a scotch brite pad might do the job , but for big or deeper scratches there isn't any cure to restore to "new" like condition.

The Italian colored number means the winner of quiz award, respectively on how many are there below. The tree thingie , I think this is for setting a quiz that finnaly didn't got any correct answer and was awarded with the "stomp" sighn.

You can say that again Pete , you can say that again. The point is as said before , we live in a world of hype, where less is not enough and yet again more isn't enough too. Fortunatelly for us , the ones who know what and why we want, we do have a choice of true enjoyment , with a Guzzi, Fly Eagle Fly !!! .

Better be starting putting some of those in cars, the media had already broken our balls with the "global warming" story.

HORRIBLE

This won't answer all you questions but here is a hint on finig TDC. Unscrew the front cover of the bike , yes , that bell like front (in between the exhausts=alternator cover.)where the alternator is,then screw CLOCKWISE that main screw . At the side of your gearbox there is a cup, you have to take take this off and you and see now while turning that screw that "gear plate" rolling .With a flashlight you will be able to see the marks(line mak with letter on top) "D" and "S" inside this gear plate, and they should come alligned with the outside point mark which is on the gear box. D refers to Destra=Right cylinder head. And S to sinistra=Left cylinder head valves to be adjusted. I have marked these 2 points in that gear plate with red paint so it is easy to find. It needs to make a couple of complete "rolls" to the whole thing so that the TDC is OK when S od D is alligned to the mark for both cylinder head respectivelly. Hope that helped. Anyone who came up with some pics will help to what I have described. To your questions. Q2, Yes I get this impression too (judging on the method I just described) dunno what it is.I roll oonce more and the allignment is correct. Q3Yes I have came up a couple of times where the Ex. alves where tighter than the intake ones. Q4 Well clearences don't get always bigger, dunno why is that. Q5 I adjust the valves when I hear something doesn't sound right, or my AFR instrument starts showing me some unusuall indications Generrally I will do a check up about every 5K km (if nothing of the above is happening) Q6 Dunno , I have never noticed this. Q7 Yes it is but then again it should better be checked up at the RPM you want to know of how it is working(i.e. stop the bike pull aside and check plug, so better use an AFR instrument instead of doing this). If it is done after long idle it will only show you about how idle is working. Well , in more extreme situations i.e. overall too rich or lean , approximate plug colour will show up anyway. relative Spark Plug chart If you go tunning for best results then get an real time AFR measure instrument. P.S. I am sure Gary and Pete will be able to answer your questions in depth, but that's all a basic look from my point of view.

Basic service at 6Kmiles should be Oil change (engine oil+gear box+back bevel box) Check and grease the shaft, Change oil filter and fuel filter Air filter change as well. (except if K&N or BMC type of filter in the airbox.) Check & adjust valve clearence Spark plugs change Optional , synchronise Throtle bodies along with also TPS voltage check and adjust. Optional , you can also change the oil of the front forks, I do this once a year regardless the km so the seals won't wear out and secondly to have for sure best performance. That's all I suppose.

Adding to that usefull also would be to say the total length of the dipstick, length of stick I mean that is dippend to the oil sump (after screw and on) Have seen different lengths of sticks especially on aftermarket. So what's it on the one you got?

Where are these pictures finnaly? All I see is some Calis over there.

WOW !!! That is really well done!! :thumbsup: my best congrats even for the try. Any other details such as your best scoring lap , compared to others' best in the race?

How about this V sump that has the oil filter at external point , isn't it any better solution , considering this problem? I know that there is a version for smaler type sumps like the carb1100 or quotas and older lemans' Is there a version that can be fitted in longer oil- sumps like the V11's or the sports1100, if so, would there be any mods that have to be done?

Any name , address or tel? ,or ,Has she done any movies?If then which.?