Alex-Corsa

Just another twat riding a bike, disturbing the peace of normal going people.That's only dangerous. And something more to all these "fast & dangerous wannabees" come over here in Athens jungle and drive like this where almost everyone and the cars are going like insane,and let's see if you could get out alive or unscratched within a week. Riding like this is total Bul***t , whay can''t everyone ride safe and carefully , do they need the "TrailMaster" law to get responsible?

Have not noticed that, but a steady leak ,not increasing as speed increases(i.e regardless the km/h it is the same), and that's quite small,when at traveling

I use the Castrol MTXi full synthetic 75W-140 gear oil. No leaks at all at lower speeds up to 80km/h no matter the time , small leaks at travel speeds after some 40'/1hour when the back bevel gets got. Very smooth gear change and no noises, I would recomend it Castrol MTXi full synthetic 75W-140 gear oil

That sounds like a sync problem to me.In your case I would sync again , in addition unscrew-remove the bypass air screws at the TBs and clean them a bit and put back in. They get some dirt from time to time and need to be cleaned. So does sync, I do sync or sync check on my bike precautionary and as an short of "breakfast practise" (when I have nothing else to do). Anyways a fresh sync can only be good. TIP , you won't hve to unscrew the TPS pot. from allen screws to adjust when the TBs re connected. Just screw-unscrew the cup-spoon like conecting to the right TB (underneath from the TB connecting bar) Use one plier to hold the connecting rod and the other to adjust (screw-unscrew) the "spoon" Doing these tuff correct then you will know that any throttle popping will be most possiblly from the mapping

There aren't any breathers to the 1100i bt default !

Yes , a BMW could do, the new S perhaps , the Germans have got it right on this one . Nope I don't do track days for me is just a waste of time and money. As for brake training it can be helpfull of some short, but in wet and slipery or variable road conditions that one could need an ABS mostly, is also useless, since in order to learn braking to the best possible(in such conditions) start imagining how many times one will take a slip with the bike in practice just to learn. I agree to this point 100%

It is hard for me to believe that in technological age in 2007 there isn't an ABS conversion kit for non ABS bikes. I guess I will have to "yahoo it"

I am thinking to instal ABS on my 1100i sport Corsa, does anyone knows about it?.If it is possible and how , or if someone did it and how can it be done? Only the front would be OK and enough for it if there are any patends around or what can it be done ,I would like to know.

If you still want to stay on the 70's you can then try the Metzelers Z6 roadtecs they have some sporty quality in them in terms of grip and geometry (more than any other 70 profile tyre on the market for sure) Well they are not pilot powers or M1's, but they are excellent in what they are. For me suspencion is much more important but I haven't dig much into that a lot since i don't do track. hope you find what's best for you.

Well , I can understand how it is to you, but don't worry about metals , they can be fixed.Health i much more importand in any case. So the problem is to get that screw that's left in out of there? If so then just think of this part as something to be rotated to the direction to unscrew it. I have dealat with sitution like this before (though not in cylinder head) and solved t with the below principle diagramm (actually the no 1) There are three basic options as I see it. You need bore machine and screw driver (and WD40) Diagram 1 1 as in diagram , drill the smallest hole you can in the center of the leftover screw 1-1.5 mm diameter(to 3-4mm deep depends on how deep the leftover screw is you must not go deeper ), then drill the next bigger one gradually increasing (be carefull to estimate the size of the threads of the head though so you don't hit them) As you increase the bore, most times if not all, the leftover piece will get unscrewed with at least enough to catch it with a plier and remove it. If it doesnt you can try tight-fitting a screw driver that's just abot as wide as the hole drilled and unscrew from that. I have done this and worked all times. Well of course you have flooded the place before you start (all occasions) with some WD40 or any anti rust fluid. 2 Drill 2 or three holes (with small bore prefferably 1mm)and then with any way you can *drill over in the midle spots or hittling lightly at an angle with a screwdriver from a hole(or whatever approriate you think of) towards the other holes to scrap of some material and create a line so that it is converted to a flat screwdriver groove and then you know what you will do. *tight fit any flat tool that will help you rotate the thing) Then again caution on the outside holes not hitting threads perhaps you'll need only 2 or so, 3 The 3rd on is to drill 2 small holes and fit into them 2 steel nails , then catch them with a plier and try to unscrew dunno how much is better but that's the principle to make this thing move around Hope that helped, but be very carefull when driling and working on it if you go one of these ways, best is if you know a bit about then try it or else with someone that knows about , or better get it to a shop tip is if you do no3. and don't work then you can do no2 If you di the 2 first then you can do the no1.

Dunno how exact , but I start believing that it does, after my yesterday's experience to "feed" my bike with lower octan (still OK for the bike) of 95 unleaded, had a 8-10% more lean indications in my AFR instrument,(where I was having 12.8 was getting 13.9-14++) and the bike wouldn't go as good as before with the 98 or 100 octane I used to do my tunning an measurments. For a moment I though WTF but then I remembered I went that ride and burned that fuel ,and on the return just filled up , with 100, bingo! the bike came back up as alive and good functioning as before. Dunno what all that translates to power and or miliage but for sure there must be something hiding there. This AFR on and steady when cruising , or when accelerating? you see there are different throtle openings for that. A throtle opening on the 5th speed on the 1100i when cruising (about straight)at 4000rpm is at around 18-20deg. when accelerating is a bit wider and then depending on the gear and or load..

LOL , any pics , I don't know what this part is you talk about. Each or both?

Yes one leg at a time. The 10mm or about so is comepestating the back height loss when a 60 profile tyre is fitted, perhaps that direction goes for the Daytona RS that has a 60 back tyre. Not so necessary when in 70 profile I have dropped mine about 2-3mm ,still wearing a 70 profile and that's all, and even when have riden with a 60 and no drop still was fun to ride, too much details at big level is IMO just a load of **** that you don't need in the street situations if the bike is otherwise tip-top OK and you know how to ride it. I was such a sceptic some years ago but right now after 55Kkm riding the bike the matter means nothing to me. Rule of the thumb is to set it up as you'll fit better on it (riding position and style)

What a great job on that bike. The 1000R belongs to the legendary Kwaks ,at the time where 1000cc was a mans job to handle.This definatelly is a classic,my fisrt big bike was a GPZ900R which I had more than 10yrs ago,nice bke it was , till I saw that Guzzi!!

Also, except all these mentioned , faulty intake valves-guides can cause some "strange" poping as well(especially at idle), check out , is there any "side-play" at the valves?....been there and done that

Beautifull places , Italy has some of the most beautifull scenery in the world. I always have found some scenery to admire every time I have been there.

Seems like your bike is running rich miture of fuel.Well, before doing anything on the mixture , be sure about your injection system being adjusted and working correctly.i.e. synchronisation , TPS voltage at least, they play significant role to the consumption. In my experience these can effect on fuel consumption 0-10%(of course in same setup,before-after situation) I have an approximate 6-6.5lt/100km on autobahn speed travel (120-160km/h) and about same on country sport (not extreme) riding, and a 6.9-8 in city even though I have programmed my chip on the injection to get a 12.2 -12.9AFR at the exhaust.

IMO nothing will happen, even if it all turns to stone age in terms of navigation one can use everything that's available from a paper map to a mountain goat to find the orientation.I still have that S.A.S. book telling lots about star navigation and so on as well. There are no rules but use the best (way)that works for you and leave some place for the rest.

I use the VDSTS from Technoresearch the standard version. Works great as a diagnosis tool for my 1100i sport. Many parameters to see and even record on a ride if I want to. From oil and air temps to TP and spark advance, ign.timing, and so on.

If that works convenient for you then it is OK. Same goes for GPS, I use my PDA with a Navigon thing, it is helpfull on calculating the route and I switch it on when I need some info. Had saved me tenths of hours when I wanted to find some address in an unknown city,

I would suggest to take a look at the TB's and see if the are synchronized first,a lok at the TPS and the valves is alo a relative thing to check up. Temprature chart should alo be taken into consideration. What was your bikes temp(and outside temp) when it was running OK? Doest in mow always(all oil temps) run with this problem? The "hicup" thing does it happns on all gears at these rpm?when accelerating or when holding the thotlle steady on these rpm? Jus few tips to mak your resource.It can be fixed so don't worry about it

You'r right , and even more ,a mechanical watch is a real time piece and won't need any battaries. I have a ring ring as well.

I use a WP with gas reservoir and 32 setting points on my 1100i. Quite good all the 2+ years I have it on .Though to some the our Guzzis don't need a steering dumper. I like the feel I get from it and it is a must in the way I want to ride and feel the bike

Colors and other little details can play their role greatly in a bike.(actually everywhere) My 1100 is an injection model with a 17" back wheel and 70' profile tyre at the back. Plus as a corsa it has a black painted motor that hides some engine volume , letting other details pop-out of the design, such as exhaust valve covers and keeping the shape of the bike into main view especially the red. They obviouslly got it right on that bike and my artistic eye got it at the spot right on. Besides for me is Moto Guzzi "soltano Rosso" The yellow one especially in "normal" 1100i version is also a very nice combination allowing the shape to "be seen"

I have seen once,a Guzzi watch some time ago , it was a chronograph ,claiming to have a valjux7750, quite OK looking, selling around $500. But it is better to have a watch around made for "Guzzisti",by "Guzzisti"