callison

I've got check these posts more often... Okay, I was adjusting my swingarm centering after having the pork chops powder-coated. Somehow, I got some grit or dirt between the swingarm and the porkchop on the pin. Centering the swingarm involves running the pins in and out full depth to take measurements and while I backed one of the pins out, the grit invaded the threads and started galling the aluminum threads badly. It ruined the porkchop. I can't even remove the aluminum that was bound into the pin threads. It was NOT cross-threaded, I had been running the pin in and out with no problem during the centering process until that tiny bit of contamination screwed up the whole process. Just make sure that everything is spotless around the pin on both sides of the porkchop when you're doing any adjusting.

FWIW, I don't think anyone that buys a Norge is buying it because they're looking for a sport bike. Although most of my Guzzis are gone from the stable now, I retain my Sport 1100i as the counterpoint to my Norge. All I have to do is get it running again, and at the moment I'm about 1/3 of the way into the timing cover on the way to replacing the timing chain tensioner. I'd be done, but I've misplaced my 13mm hex bit. It's in the garage somewhere, I just know it is. I just haven't found it yet. After I've changed the chain tensioner, I'm hoping for a very much improved idle etc. If that works okay, I'll probably be swapping out the wiring harness and ECU for ones off of a V11 Sport.

Hank Blackstock used to be the Guzzi dealer in Oklahoma City many years ago. He has a track record at Hallet - in a bus!

GuzziTech MG-Norge/Sport/Stelvio 1200 - Chat 24/7 GuzziTech MG-Norge/Sport/Stelvio 1200 - Technical Data GuzziTech MG-Griso/Breva/Bellagio - Chat 24/7 GuzziTech MG-Griso/Breva/Bellagio - Technical Data GuzziTech MG-Griso.com - Registry GuzziTech MG-Manuals - Owners, Service, Parts and Workshop.

I never actually located whatever component drew that smidgen of too much current under specific conditions but a 7.5 amp fuse on the circuit keeps it from sidelining the bike and hasn't caused any problems. Time will tell. The bike is nearly 1100 miles away from me now, so I hope I don't get a call from a suitably irate son...

I've signed my 2001 V11 Sport TT over to my son in Buckeye, Arizona. Now I have more space in the garage and the Guzzi remains in the family. All I have to do now is hope that the Air Force will let him have the weekend off for the Prescott Rally next year. Life is good...

Refer to: 1999 Moto Guzzi V11 Sport schematic The generator light, oil pressure light, low fuel light and the speedometer and tachometer lights all share a common +12v from a red/black wire. That same wire also feeds the engine run/start switches, the front and rear brake switches, the horn and the high beam flash. If any of these work (checking the brake lights would be a fast easy check) you'll know that the fuse F5 is good. Unfortunately, the red/black wire is fed from the headlight relay and that in turn is fed by the starter relay. Either on of those could be a problem unless of course, turn signals, brake lights etc do work in which case it might be something a bit more insidious. Lest you cringe in fear of that statement, you should know that the illumination bulbs on the V11 Sport have a very inferior bulb socket design that has been known to fall apart and short out. That would be where I would look first. When you pop the bulb holder(s) out from the back of the tach or speedo, you should be able to remove the bayonet bulb without the whole thing falling apart. If it does, that's an indicator that things ain't right. The problem could lie somewhere else so I'm not going to give this reply as the universal panacea for your problem because it most certainly might not be, but it is worth a check.

Well, duhh, you look at it backwards. Everyone knows that... Seriously though, since this worked for you and I have a Valtek tensioner hiding in a box in my shed, I'll have to get my act in gear and do the same thing to my Sporti. It's been sitting since it hit 58,000 miles nearly 5 years ago. My V11 Sport is going to my son next week which will open up some garage space (finally) and I'll be able to work on the Sporti. There is one other possibility to keep in mind although I've only heard of one instance where a repair was done for it and that is air leakage past worn seals on the Throttle Body shafts. There is a direct replacement seal available through Yamaha dealers but I don't have the number at hand right at the moment. I do have several sets of the seals though. Just in case you know...

Mounting costs for re-modeling portions of the house and alleviating the effects of too much rain necessitate the sale of my 2005 Patrol. I purchased this unit (delivered Jan 2006) from Wagner's Cycles in Arkansas. Wagner's have a reputation for setting these rigs up correctly. Very little has ever gone awry except for the ignition unit (replaced under warranty) and the vacuum fuel tap which was replaced with the manual type. 2005 Ural Patrol 2WD with less than 2500km (currently at 2231km). http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/Ura...and_trailer.JPG Stuff added from Wagner's at or after time of purchase: http://www.wagnerscycle.us/parts/: Deluxe Driving Lights http://www.wagnerscycle.us/parts/images/pr...ving_lights.jpg National Cycle Windshield - Plexi II Windshield - Plexi II http://www.wagnerscycle.us/parts/images/preview/6.jpg Tank Bag http://www.wagnerscycle.us/parts/images/preview/tank_bag.jpg Hand Warmers (black) http://www.wagnerscycle.us/parts/images/pr...and_warmers.jpg Spare Drive Shaft (brand new - not zerked) Things I've added: Rich Maund tire cover, Sidecar Side Curtain, Tonneau and Windshield Skirt (tan) http://www.geocities.com/rgmaund/TonneausCurtainsSkirts.html Hawker Odyssey PC680 Battery (an unbelievably strong battery, much better than stock - and much more expensive as well). No maintenance dry cell. It's lightly larger than stock so it's mounted on end with the terminals accessible from the left side of the bike. There is wiring for a battery charger on the battery as well. http://www.portablepower.com/items/batteri.../SL105/37L105S5 Heated hand grips (original grips have been changed but the handlebar end plugs have departed somewhere) http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Heated...it-p-16539.html 12V outlet on side of bike and in sidecar Holopaw Corvette Ural type trailer and trailer hitch http://holopawcorvette.webpointusa.com/ima...ry/trailer2.jpg http://holopawcorvette.webpointusa.com/ima...ailer_hitch.jpg Cargo volume is 47Lx27Wx14.5 inches - about 10.6 cubic feet. This trailer has a short tongue, it can be used with a standard motorcycle but requires caution to do so. Trailer has 18" wheels, the Patrol is all 19". Bike has been rewired for a fuse block (not Wagner's, I had spare parts lying around - Wagner's parts would have been somewhat prettier...). This includes a re-located heavy duty type flasher unit. Additionally, switches have been added to the Ural dash to accommodate switching the driving lights, a jack for a heated vest, heated handgrips and auxiliary power sockets on the bike, sidecar and trailer. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/Ura...s/Ural_Dash.jpg The wiring is even documented: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/Ura..._Ural_Mod_I.gif Relays have been added for the horn (an ah-oogah type that never stays adjusted. Drat), and relays also run the additional circuits added to the dash. The bench seat has been modified for a hitch pin release making it very easy to remove the seat. http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_9048245/c4...rwT9oGB9Pu9Qeqg http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_9048245/c4...rwT9oGBz5GaVxO_ I am asking $9750 but make a realistic offer and I'll consider it. Basically, I'm paying off the loan on the Norge. I also have a trailer available that it fits on to reasonably well that could be thrown into the deal for the interested party that just wants to drive up, hook up and leave. That would set you back an additional $150. It's a 5x8 foot flatbed but you have to back the Ural onto it to keep the center of gravity forward of the wheels. This would include a set of aluminum ramps that aren't really worth anything but will get the bike onto the trailer to go home - then I'd toss 'em except maybe for light weight work. 2" ball hitch. The trailer (no longer available from Holopaw Corvette) was a $995 item all by itself. All and all, this could be a very sweet deal for someone.

You all might as well confess that the most esthetically pleasing Guzzis ever built were the Daytonas and the carb/FI sports. After that, I would consider it the MGS01. MHO. YMMV

In 1999, the cheesehead in charge of MGNA told me that not only would Laverda be releasing new bikes but that they were going to build a touring version of that V6. Har de har har har... He also told me that MG would have a fully faired touring model in 3 years. He was only off by 4 years on that one.

I've got a front and rear skinny set that could be sent off for powder coating prior to your arrival. I don't want a wide wheel though for the same reasons as you. Horse trading around would probably cure that. jma is the guy looking for the wider rim.

And the world's shortest poem: Fleas Adam Had'em

On my Macintosh, I had to purchase QuickTime Pro so that I could turn off the sound tracks that I did not want. By default, all languages are turned on, so it really does sound like a catfight at the United Nations.

Make damn certain that the backsides of the porkchops are clean with no dirt or grit anywhere. If there is, you stand a chance on buggering the swingarm pin threads in the porkchop. BTDT, currently have one good and one bad black powder coated set of porkchops out in the shed.

Unless you've ponied up for the additional PayPal buyers insurance, their liability limit is about $175. BTDT.

Of course she does! Keeps her competitive...

1. Okay. Wow! Note that the bike is lifted high enough that the center of gravity is well below the lift point. 2. Arkansas, where the toothbrush was invented. Anywhere else and it would have been called the teethbrush. 3. I had a Lockhart stand. Seriously weak design. Replaced with a Pit Bull stand. Really fantastic construction. P.S., not really wanting to insult Arkansasians, but Richard asked for a joke. Blame him!

Did you check the resistance for the socket to ground?

Remember the Redneck Thermometer?

I have a problem that imageshack is so stinkin' slow that the image cannot be seen here nor accessed at it's web site without timing out. Drat...

Mine is pretty erratic at idle. Until it tries to run backwards. Then it dies.

Clean the ground areas under the regulator where it bolts to the frame and then make sure that you bolt the regulator on very securely. Worth a try and costs next to nothing. Make sure the leads on the battery are clean and tight as well.

Italjet?

Yes. Do. Yes. Yes, it's odd and thats precisely what my Ural was doing when I had a bad starter relay (not the solenoid). I refused to believe that it could be the relay and wasted 3 months chasing around other problem. The solenoid takes a LOT of current to pull in, if the starter relay has worn contacts or whatever, it will pass voltage - but not enough current.