felix42o
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Posts posted by felix42o
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Not quite as cool as the jets but I am flying the one one the left side ...
I dunno, having been a helo crewman most of my career (both heavy lift -53's and later HH-1N's), I'd say it's at least a tie! We had HH-1N Hueys in the SAR team I flew with, and the sound of that thing beating the air from across a valley at altitude gets me all misty-eyed
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I just took my tank off to put my shock on right as someone previously had installed it upside down. Anyway my stock air filter is pretty dirty so it's time to replace it. I have the factory Ti exhaust and MG off road ecu. I'd really like to go with the pods just to unclutter everything but would consider a K&N w/o box top on my box. Can I get away with either one of these without having to get a PCIII ?
I don't know what the mapping is like on the "race" ECU, but on the stock one it was definitley too lean for mine. If you can't swing something like the MyECU, I'd say that with pods you'd at least want a PCIII.
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Tenni#132 now resides in Billings, MT. Dream come true.
Congrats! Probably the only one in the state I'd imagine.
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Craig,
Those guages look nice in there.
With regards to the hall effect sensor, I found this one which looks to be lower profile.
What type of adapter did you need to fit the oddball GM female threads onto the Guzzi male side?
-Brian
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That's a nice looking bike! Yeah, sorry about confusing you on the breather hose...it's at the top of the engine case, just behind the cylinders, and goes up into the frame. It's under the tank and a little difficult to see, but if that's where the leak is it'll probably be cracked and ugly looking where the hose clamp holds it to the case of the motor.
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Many thanks, Tom and KB, for your sane advice, appreciate the replies.
Good questions, too; should have clarified: Appears to be engine oil. Seller wondered out loud if synthetic oil seeps through seals and gaskets. I let that go. I hadn't thought of breather hose issues - which supports the symptom of no leak at rest. When I get it home I'll clean it all beneath, talc it up and hope for a clear diagnosis.
The bike had been sitting and was charged up before my two test rides, which may have disturbed the battery connections. The snapping sound, about every 7 - 15 seconds, was apparent after both short runs. The ignition was off. The sounds seemed to be coming from the relay area but I'll certainly check around the battery. Darndest thing.
Otherwise, it ran and handled beautifully! I hope to collect the bike one evening this week. I'll be back to report!
Cheers,
Bob
The stock breather hose fails pretty quickly. It's not very high quality rubber, so I'd look there. Then do a forum search for replacement options, as there is/was an automotive one that had close to the right bends and was cheaper than the MG one. I just used a length of hose I had in the garage, and it works fine. That was 5 years ago. These bikes tend to "find" their own happy oil level, too, so if it's overfilled it will find a way out.
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I dunno, I guess it depends on your head shape. I had a few cheap HJC modulars that I liked the fit of but considered kind of disposible, and changed up every couple years. I then bought a Nolan, which was considerably more expensive, and though the quality is better and it's lighter (than the HJC) it just doesn't fit all that well. I'm going to look at the Schuberth S2 or maybe a Shoei modular, but only 'cause it's been a good year at work and I need a new one. Who knows. I do know that I like the modular flip-ups, even though they are louder.
Felix,
You might want to give Shoei a try if your HJC fit you well. HJC and Shoei seem to fit my melon best among all of the helmets that I tried on. My RF1000 is getting old but it's holding up much better than the HJC did.
Good to know, Tom...I'll take a look as I've heard good things about the RF1000s. How's the wind noise? I ride with plugs usually anyway, but it'd be nice to have a quiter one.
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I dunno, I guess it depends on your head shape. I had a few cheap HJC modulars that I liked the fit of but considered kind of disposible, and changed up every couple years. I then bought a Nolan, which was considerably more expensive, and though the quality is better and it's lighter (than the HJC) it just doesn't fit all that well. I'm going to look at the Schuberth S2 or maybe a Shoei modular, but only 'cause it's been a good year at work and I need a new one. Who knows. I do know that I like the modular flip-ups, even though they are louder.
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I recently got a Rosso Mandello with 45k miles on it and it looks like it. so it's going to need some refurbishing particularly around the back half. Questions I have are;
Is there a color reference for Dupont or other manufacturer of paint in the US for the tank and for the greay tail section?
Are the Rosso Mandello decals on the tail section still available?
Are the valve covers supposed to match the tank? If not is there a paint code or number available for them also?
I guess that's enough to keep me busy for about a week
The paint codes are available, some searching on the site should yield results. Whether or not the codes can be used to translate into an available US color is the question, but one step at a time I suppose. There are also on this site files with the tail decals which I understand should be able to be printed by a decal shop, though I haven't done this (yet). Good luck with it! Another thought: The guy that did the bags, fairing and front fender on my R90/6 said he could match the original paint's current shade, noting that with fade over the years having him match the bags and fairing to the color on the existing bodywork would look better than mixing by the code of the original paint. He was right, as the work he did matched the original BMW paint perfectly. Might be worth looking into anyway.
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If I remember right (which I might not), doesn't that hex piece just unscrew? Try an adjustable on it and see if it doesn't come out. I have some swanky Rizomo grips on mine and they have their own end cap that uses an expanding rubber plug (like a bilge drain on a boat) to keep them in place. Probably your mirrors are the same?
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Okay so I thought I'd get cute and change my oil by using the port hole. Even spent 20 bucks on the tool. Everything goes great until I try to actually get the filter off. Filter wrench just wont fit on it right. No room to get any other tool or your hand on the filter....why make it nearly the same diameter as the filter? so now i just want to put it back together and do the filter next time. Can't get the porthole back on, keep cross threading it, try again and again.... So finally pull the sump. So easy. I can get the porthole to lay flat and thread, Plus I get to really clean it out. Easy to change filter...Moral, just pull the sump.
Sorry you found out the hard way, but at least you didn't bugger the threads on the manhole cover. Glad you got it figured out.
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Welcome, glad to have you aboard. Sounds like you've got a handle on things, so enjoy and share your adventures. With pictures, preferably:)
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I'm inclined to agree with you here. I have a friend who put his wife through nursing school and bought her a great set of fake boobs...she left him six months later armed with a new career path and fresh paint.
I think the takeaway here should be NOT to sell the bike.
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I've been using the rossopuro bit (basically solid w/ heim joints at either end) for quite a while now, with no regrets. It doesn't feel like it misses the rubber joints even one bit, so I would think you could get something going pretty cheap if the one from Jaap doesn't work out for you.
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Great video, looks like an excellent bike.
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Looks great! I have a set of Cali hubs and have been planning to get this done for awhile now. Glad it worked out for you.
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Were it me (which it's not), I'd just leave that ugly thing off, and fab up a simple plastic rain/muck guard to protect the rear shock/under seat area. Makes the bike look about 50 lbs lighter IMO.
Yer right, it is a bit of a blob. Not got the skills or facilities to fab one up and it would look crap if I did. Any options out there on the market that anyone knows of?
You really just need a piece of thin, flexible plastic cut to fit. If you search around on this site other members have posted pictures/plans/etc. on dimensions. All you'd be looking to do is protect the shock, battery and underseat area.
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Were it me (which it's not), I'd just leave that ugly thing off, and fab up a simple plastic rain/muck guard to protect the rear shock/under seat area. Makes the bike look about 50 lbs lighter IMO.
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Looks like a good foundation to start building a V11-matching trailer on.
Glad you fixed it before it let go.
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I've only run into mine once, on a long stretch of highway in top cog. It definitley hits hard enough to scare you...
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Can you post a picture of them?
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If this guy is for real then he's out of his mind. But looking at the ad, and having spent a lot of time purchasing throgh ebay, this has a lot of things wrong with it that point to a scam of some sort. Spelling errors, pictures that aren't of the actual machine for sale, a location of sale in Kentucky with the item supposedly living in "Oakland with my partner"...
I'm going to call "bulls*&t" on this one.
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Something people may have overlooked is that wrapping the headers also makes life hard on the mufflers as it puts a LOT more heat into them.Probably not an issue with general road riding with Ti or alloy cans but if you have carbon skin cans then I'd recommend you stay away from the wrap.
Wrapping the headers on a Ducati 996 superbike a friend used to race back in the 90's saw the carbon cans last about 10 laps before failing in spectacular fashion. Didn't just happen once and they were new cans.
All that insulated heat has to now go out the mufflers and at the very least even on a road bike it will make life a lot harder on the carbon skins and glass packing if thats what you have.
The other factor is that the Guzzi is an air cooled engine and in most cases needs all the cooling help it can get.Why would you add to the impost on its marginal ability to cool by wrapping the headers with no real benefit to performance? Add to that the fact that it will eventually look tatty and require replacement and it starts to look more like the "i'm bored and need a cheap project" thing to me,or a conversation starter at the pub.
Ciao
Interesting addition to the topic Phil. I can't afford carbon cans ... but do like a good conversation in the pub ...
Cheers - I guess it's already 2012 down-under!
Gio
I have carbon FBF cans, and in 8 years have noticed no issues on my bike with header wrap. I like the way it looks, and it keeps my little hands from getting burnt. And my headers looked like crap, which was why I did it in the first place. Doesn't seem to make a bit of difference in how it runs at all. And it so far has held up fine for the cost and effort involved (low and very little), needing replacement only once about a year ago. So, from my experience on my bike the wrap just looks cool and hasn't hurt, or helped, any other part of the machine in the process.
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I have been using header wrap on mine for the last eight years or so. I have had to re-wrap it once in that time, but otherwise it holds up fine. I wouldn't use the 2-inch, though...the bend on the header pipes is pretty tight, and the thinner 1" forms to the curve a lot easier. I also used a high-temp epoxy to seal the cut ends so as to prevent fraying.
Does the wrap hold in moisture? I was wondering if the pipes show corrosion....
If it does, it certainly doesn't seem to have caused any damage. But I'm fortunate to have a garage to keep the bike in, so the only time it sees rain is while riding, where the heat keeps it dry anyway. Last time I wrapped them (about a year ago I guess) I noticed no damage or corrosion. They're stainless anyway, so I wouldn't expect them to.
New to me Guzzi
in Newer models
Posted
Welcome back, great looking bike