felix42o
-
Posts
566 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by felix42o
-
-
Welcome back, Enzo.
-
So I got this Cali rear wheel and front hub off fleabay for cheap. Sorry for the bad mobile phone pic, but what do you all think? Should I consider having these laced up to a proper rim and switch to spokes? I kinda like it, I think.
-
I've taken a rear Tyre that far, caught me by surprise, the design of the Tyre had no tread in the middle , I was riding straight roads and one minute it looked fine 20ks later canvas was showing through. Had to stay in Mackay overnight (it was Sunday) and buy a new one next day. Some rears can look ok one minute and OMG the next. However I don't see an excuse for the front one. And tyres might not be that expensive in the states but in Aus ----Ouch
I had that happen on my last rear tire, right in the middle. Looked okay till a gas stop near LA and I parked it till I could get a new tire as well. Had to ride on the back of my buddie's ST1300 bank to San Diego, which must have looked rediculous. Two grown men in full gear on a Honda
It certainly wasn't to the point it wouldn't hold air though. What do tires cost over there? A set of pirelli diablos cost around, what, $300-350 I guess. -
Yeah, I gotta say that's pretty ridiculous. Tire aren't that expensive...you don't need to buy top shelf tires to be safe. I hate to judge, but if you can't spend the money on basic consumables you probably should re-evaluate your need for a motorcycle.
-
Is rattle there stationary or just with bike moving?
It's there when it's stationary as well. I'm going to pick up a bolt to replace the missing one. Whenever I do something like thus, I normally take the whole thing off, clean/lube it, and reinstall. I just don't know what's behind the cover and if I need to worry about anything there. If it doesn't fix the rattle, I'll be back.
I find it odd that I only hear it from 3k - 5k or so.
The alternator is behind the alternator cover. Nothing to worry about there. 3-5k must just be the range where it vibes the way the loose thing likes to be shaken. Frequencies and all. Er something. Is it really a rattle or more of a buzz? Regardless, it's ALWAYS a good idea with these bikes to go around checking hardware. Don't be afraid of locktite, either.
-
are they selling any of the bikes they build don't see many new ones
I saw a factory worker on what had to be the next version of the Stelvio come roaring through the gates while I was there, back tire sliding all over the place and making a hell of a racket
Pretty nice looking. The nice lady working the gift shop said they don't sell anything out of the factory. I think Agostini's is the first place out of the gates you can buy one. -
I was at the factory an hour ago. As I left the museum, so did about 75 workers. The woman in the shop said they are still working, some reduced hours. They do have a huge sign in front from Piaggio, which I couldn't read, which looked like it was the design for a new plant.
The tour was great - they had a Rosso Mandello as part of the display, so now my friends can say both my bike and it's owner belong in a museum. I ran out of time, but would have loved to go to Agostini's -a block away from the factory, looked like Guzzi heaven.
You did miss out a bit on Agostini's...cool place. They didn't have a spare tach laying around, or any of the other little bits I'd hoped to find there, but it's still a cool shop. They had one of the V7 cafe racer bikes, too...it's a lot nicer in real life.
-
Hi everyone,
Have found a Power Commander 3 for sale in the UK. Model number is 706-411. It's for a MY2000/01 V11, but I'm wondering if it will fit my Tenni. Can anyone let me know if they have this model number fitted to a later V11
Thanks
Pretty sure that's what's in mine. I believe all the V11's have the same ECU.
-
FWIW, I got mine through McMaster-Carr...a quick forum search will turn up the part numbers. I think I paid $62USD delivered for both front and rear.
-edit-
From my notes:
Rear L&R # 6204-2RS (Dim: 20 x 47 x14)
Front L # 6205-2RS (Dim: 25 x 52 x 15)
Front R # 6304-2RS (Dim: 20 x 52 x 15)
-
Nope, still open:) I was just there about 3 weeks ago. They are planning a renovation of the building, but not closed...fortunately I think that was mostly just us getting all worked up about nothing.
-
Will do, you guessed it, I am a forum newbie.
I'd better coz I think I'm going to need this forum a fair bit.
Thanks for replying so quickly. You pre-empted my depression :-)
No worries. When you use the search function, make sure you select "Relevence" in the "result sorting" field...otherwise it doesn't narrow down far enough.
-
Welcome to the forum. You should familiarize yourself with the search function...most everything about these bikes has been covered at some point in time, usually in far more detail than needed. As lifted from an earlier post...
"To remove the rear wheel once the bike's rear is in the air, remove the rear brake bracket anchor from the left side of the swing arm. Next remove the rear axle nut. Now slide the axle out about 1/2 way. This will allow you to slide the rear caliper bracket down and forward to remove the caliper and bracket assy. from the rear brake disc. You can just let the bracket and caliper hang or tie it up out of the way. Now slide the rear axle out about 2/3 of the length. You will have to hold the wheel up to keep it at 90 degrees to the ground. Slide the wheel to the left and it should clear the final drive and rear axle. The small spacer is about 1/2 inch. long and goes between the final drive and wheel. It will sometimes stick to the wheel or final drive. Just look for it so you know where the little devil goes."
As far as the axle goes, it's not threaded but I find that *light* tapping with a rubber mallet while turning it with the allen key helps to break it loose if it's being difficult. You're going to have to hold the wheel a bit to take some weight off the axle.
-
please god someone tell me someone has a saved copy of one of enzo's monstrosity, that purple and blue and I've all but blocked it from my mind
Nobody needs to see that again.
-
I have found, the more vocal I am about K&N, the more I offend people. GM will cancel powertrain warranty on their use. They are a MAF sensor's worst enemy! What good is it to wash a filter and get the dirt particles on both sides of the filter, oil it and then install it ?
I prefer my paper element any day and change it frequently.
I agree with you for the most part. They're highly overrated and there's lots of testing showing they don't filter as well as paper, particularly if you don't keep them clean and oiled which I think most people don't. When someone makes a paper pod filter I'll swap. Till then I like the look of the pods and just clean and oil them alot. I don't use them in my cars mostly because they're out of sight hidden in the air box, and I will forget to check them in there. At least with the pods, I can see them readily and it's easier to keep them up to snuff.
-
I run the K&N's on mine, with the stock airbox tubes fixed between the throttle bodies and the filters to maintain the intake track length. I also have the air temp sensor thingy fixed in the end of the right filter. It runs fine. But it would be a lie to say that it runs better than it did with the air box. I run the pod filters purely for the look and sound. I like the clean appearance and the loud intake honk. K&N's are never going to give you as much protection as a paper filter, especially of you don't keep them clean and oiled. This is pretty well documented. But, I have multiple bikes and a few cars as well, so making my Tenni's engine last as absolutley long as possible isn't really a priority-if it needs a rebuild 10,000 miles earlier than it might have had I kept the paper filter I'm okay with it. Just know the trade-offs involved with any modification before you jump in.
-
Also, if you haven't done so, bleed all the fluid out and replace with fresh. There's a tiny orifice in the master cylinder that allows for the heat expansion of the brake fluid, and it can plug easily if the fluid is dirty.
-
Agreed. While you're at it, just check every connector you can get at. They used some pretty shoddy connectors at the factory.
-
I was holding out for a 04 but this is intriguing. Good deal?
[/quot
Looks nice enough from the ad. All of the stuff listed in the ad is just factory stock, nothing special except the exhaust and bags. Search the FAQ's here regarding the issues to look for on the '02's, namely the shift pawl spring and bubbling engine case paint. The price isn't too bad, if it's in nice enough shape, but I'd definitely take her for a ride and see if she fits your tastes. If it does, you'll know in short order. Then you'll be screwed up forever like all the rest of us here. Good luck and happy hunting!
-
Resurrecting an old thread here, but I am going to be in Bellagio for the next week or so, and am going to obviously visit the Guzzi factory across the lake. Anyone here know anything about the current hours it's open, or maybe have a good phone number? I haven't had much luck finding anything on the Internet. Worst case, we're just going to spend the day in and around mandello, but I'd like to gather any information I can. Of course I'll post pics afterwards. The wife and will be on the lake for the next week, then we head to Croatia. So good to be on vacation...
From the web:
Museo del Motociclo Moto Guzzi
Via Parodi 57
23826 Mandello del Lario (Lecco)
tel. 0341 709269 - 0341 709111
h 15:00 - 16:00 mon - fri, sat and sun only booking a visit.
Thank you! Of course, as luck would have it I have to leave for Venice Friday morning. I suppose the tour will have to wait until our next trip out. We will just make do with pictures of the exterior and the surrounding area. I still plan on ferrying across tomorrow and exploring that side of the lake. I will keep the information on the museum as well.
-
Resurrecting an old thread here, but I am going to be in Bellagio for the next week or so, and am going to obviously visit the Guzzi factory across the lake. Anyone here know anything about the current hours it's open, or maybe have a good phone number? I haven't had much luck finding anything on the Internet. Worst case, we're just going to spend the day in and around mandello, but I'd like to gather any information I can. Of course I'll post pics afterwards. The wife and will be on the lake for the next week, then we head to Croatia. So good to be on vacation...
-
the Q doesn't use the 15m cpu?
I'm not sure one way or the other...just a guess. It's probably like Tom said, with the extra tach pulse. Not a huge deal here, but alot of you out there are pretty savy with this stuff. Figured I'd throw it out for consideration before getting rid of a working tach.
-
Awhile back, I bought a known good tach from a wrecked Quota. It works (technically) in the v11, but the quota must have used a different ECU, as the rate the tach swings is much faster than it should be. In other words, once started, it shows an idle of roughly 2500 RPM, and moves very quickly towards redline with only a slight increase on actual engine speed. So. Any thoughts on a way to "calibrate" this tach to work properly with the 15M ECU's signal? Is it as easy as adding a resistor inline(although I'm sure it's probably not that simple) or should I just scrap the thought and sell the thing on eBay?
-
I'll tell you, I had one of those early (carb'd '02) SV's at my house for awhile rebuilding the carbs for a friend. Super easy to work on, and once I got it running I was amazed how quick and light it was. Even for my 200 pound ass, it got up and went much quicker than a 650 twin has a right to in my opinion, with a nice pull to redline. Even brought the front wheel up in first gear... If I had room for another bike in the garage and only had $2500 or so, that'd be where I'd be tempted to spend it. I think there's a good reason it's as popular as it is. 'Specially if your just looking for something to thrash around town on.
-
I want a good townie/commuter bike that doesn't blast too much heat on me goes alright and gets at least 40mpg, so far the top choices about in order are a Dosoduro, a shiver(same bike kinda) a KTM super duke(reports say it'll get 38-42 stock) a KTM 690, a duke 2, BMW 650 or 800, but here's the problem I don't really want to spend more than 6k, 5k would be better and I'd be looking used obviously, I don't know much about the big 4 as to what they would offer in this category that may be better than what I listed but there is NO way I'm riding an SV, for some reason I just hate them, all other contenders are welcome.
I've seen plenty of low mileage super dukes for 6500-7500 duke690 would be tough, too new.
I also haven't counted out a Tuono or a Griso 1100 which can come real close to my price point.
Buell? The XB9 I rode got way better than 40, and had decent power. The BMW's are expensive to keep up with, so that wouldn't be my first choice. Too bad you hate the SV's...I think they're a lot of fun, and they are dirt cheap. What about a KLR or DR?
Spokes for my Tenni?
in 24/7 V11
Posted
The front is just the hub. Both are used and would need proper rims and spokes. I think I paid around $40 for the front hub and $80 or $100 for the back wheel, but I bought them at seperate times between many expensive airhead parts and am not positive. Not much, though. There is the issue of the rear caliper mounts being different, and if I used the same guys (Woody's Wheels) I used for the R90/6 I'm building it'd be around $300-400 to get a proper rim laced up on the hubs. I was just going to powder coat the hubs black I think with my cheapo powder coat kit.