Keith Foster

Your pic looks just like the one I got and installed this past weekend.

I just installed the kit Sunday night. I just put on the part right in front of the crotch, I doubt I'll use the knee depression area. i followed the direction on TS's web site. Quite straight forward. I ran my well below where the seat hits. What happens long term I don't know. We'll see.

I thought of something I'd read years ago about breaking engines in. I recall that some mechnics/engine builders "heat cycle" engines to attain proper break in. As I recall this technique involves running the engine up to operating temp for several minutes, then letting it cool back to down, then running it up again, and letting it cool again. Performing this "heat cycle" several times to accelerate the break in time was the goal if I recall correctly. I don't know if this was a fad for a year or two, or if it is hocus pocus or a valid technique. Anyone else know of this technique and if it has merit or not? As I will be soon picking up my V11 LM I'd be interested in the opinions

Turtle, I see you are in MD, as I am. You can count me in on a set of the socket shims. As my bike is still a week or so away, I'm not in any hurry. But this kind of thing annoys me and this looks like a good fix. Contact me off line whenever you get an order together and when you need the money. Hopefully with a half dozen or so orders the cost can come down. Did you get your V11LM from Speed's Cycle?

Good work on the sleeve turtle. Something I thought of that could be used for those worried about the "solid" sleeve fix would be what 2 stroke riders use on their pipes. Expansion chamber tape. Sold in many off road bike shops, it is a kind of taffy conststency, white tape product that expands when hot. It's used to seal the exhaust port to expansion chambers on 2 stroke MX bikes. It seem like it would work here - YMMV

Maybe someone can shed some light-but why are these MG bearings wearing out prematurely - to me. Are they a poor grade? A lot of road junk or brake dust getting in them? I hold up two examples of wheel bearing life - a 1980 Honda CBX, sold with 63K mi on the ODO, didn't need it's wheel bearing changed. My current 1992 BMW K75RT with 93K mi on it, not changed a wheel bearing in it, don't need to, I check 'em. Sold another BMW with 52 K on it, same story. Somebody mentions the spacer being the wrong length, OK that would do it. Sad that a wheel can't be assembled correctly.

I gotta agree with Baldini. Speed is set by engine RPM, trans gearing, final drive gearing then tire diameter. To get to a certain speed, the tire has to turn at some RPM (or for the nerdy-angular velocity in rads/sec.), It's all hard gearing between that and the crank, so RPM sets the speed. Throttle position can be less for an engine makng improved power, i.e. it will take less juice to make the needed RPM to get to X speed. Not to be a smart aleck, but maybe you just found top gear after running in a lower one? Keep those wheelies coming!

Dan, a while back someone posted info on Williamsville Competition risers. try a search to find it, but they were the best looking job done I've seen so far. That's all in info I have on them.

Does anybody know if the MG Ti kit ECU/black box can be remapped, say if you did other mods, would it take maps for a PCII or something else ? If one can't reprogram or load other maps in the MG box, that kind of ties one's hands a bit. Then the PC would get my nod and use whatever cans ones likes/can afford/sound best yada yada.

I thought someone on forum mentioned FBF (Fast by Ferracci) had the Ti kit on their web site, on sale even. i looked and show'nuff it was there, $777 if i rekkon right. That was about 2 weeks ago. If the have them on sale you would think they have it in stock.