guzzijack

Itchy trigger finger maybe because I don't need any for my sub 600 bhp bikes. GJ

+1 on that. No need for an 'unobtabium' solution to a non-existant problem. A 6mm drill will sort it. BTW. Any chance you can provide us with some details of how these Suzukis are getting 300 - 600+hp it sounds fantastic! (probably is then!). GJ

Steel gears for big block Tontis Limited run commissioned by a GB Guzzi Club member. Pricey? Well maybe, but compared to ally gearsets, a shagged engine and having Pete on your back everytime you mention them No! All spoken for I believe. GJ

Looks like a hand gearshift to me. Possibly with a foot operated 'suicide' clutch (note lack of lever on left handlebar) or maybe the lever at the top operates the clutch? If that latter is the case then it looks as if there are no foot controls at all given the lack of a rear brake lever.... interesting. The whole bike looks like an homage to 1930/40s era chops with a sprinkle of updated stuff. Very well executed if not to everyones taste. GJ

Could well be - I've seen it 2 years running at the Trofeo Rosso @ Le Vigeant circuit in July. I'll be there this year so if I get the chance I'll ask a few questions about it. GJ

What 2 carbs per side? Maybe like this one. A very trick bit of kit. GJ

Generally speaking I have found that the type of carrier used has an influence on the likelihood of getting whacked for import duty. Nearly everything that has come to me via UPS, FedEx, DHL etc. has been hit with import duty at 6% of the value of the goods plus 17.5% VAT chargeable on the total plus the carriage. Then the carrier may add on an extra charge to cover the admin of collecting the duty! I've never had duty imposed on any item sent via US Postal - delivered by Royal Mail - but I bet that will change now that I've mentioned it As pasotibbs has noted, it's always good insurance if the sender can be creative in their description of the goods - 'Customer's goods returned from repair' or something similar often helps. GJ

Have you tied this mob Woods Auto Electrical price shown is retail. A place called Simba Electricals on the North circular in London repaired my son's Valeo for about £70 with 6 months warranty. These places have cropped up before on the MGCGB website forum as offering good service as well although I've not used them myself: Amps Auto Electrics(Starter and Alternator Specialists) 4 Park Lane Totenham London N17 02088086757 Lewisham Auto Electrics Gj

If it's the same as other big twin Guzzis - why wouldn't it be - it's a Valeo DR6A. If you do a Google search there are lots of cross-references to automobile use from Fiats to Citroens via Opels and Renaults but you may have to swap over the cogs as not all will match, although the motor body and windings appear to be the same. Here's a description of how to do that Rebuild and swap GJ

Check the battery - look on the various related threads here. GJ

The EFI manual was produced when the P7/P8 & 16M bikes were current, so I doubt that the codes refer to the 15M bikes as they have always had diagnostic software available to interrogate the ECU - so no need for a more primitive 'blinking light' system to find out what could be wrong with the system. The part number given in the original message for the 'simple tool' is the check lamp which features in the last few pages of the EFI manual, which performs the same function as the on-bike diagnostic lamp. GJ

Ha! me as well - I did the usual, 'rip it all out of the box and read the instructions later', thing and used the M/C setting a couple of times before realising my error. I guess the AGMs need the * snowflake setting because they require deep charging before going into 'tender' mode. GJ

The socket and jumper plug are fitted to the P7/P8 and 16M ECU bikes with the check lamp already hardwired and located in the underseat area. Check out the system and full list of error codes in the Guzzi EFI Manual which you can dowload from Pyro Dan's Website - just right click on 'P7-P8 EFI Workshop Manual' GJ

Oh yes - I guess you're going the same way as me then Current projects are V11Sport engine in LMV Tonti frame for the street and a roundfin endurance racer with chopped Tonti frame using a V11 Sport timing cover - very similar to this one: Have a good look at the V11 clutch and flywheel components as I think you may find that they are lighter than even the most radically drilled earlier 8 spring unit - check out the figures at this link on Guzzitech - not sure how much lighter than a ten spring Sporti clutch though, but maybe a bit if it's the same as my V10 one. This is a Tonti framed racer you're building isn't it? What gearbox are you using the 3 dog one from the Sporti - or something else? GJ

If that's the CTEK 3600 I'll second that. Best battery charger/tender I've had. I use the one unit with additional fly leads purchased from Hein Gericke permanently attached to 3 bikes and shift it around every couple of weeks during the winter. GJ

Guzzigray - as you have probably gathered I welded shut the R/H oil return spigot on the Tonti frame crossmember, cut off the L/H one and welded a larger boss onto it so I could drill and tap for a suitably sized banjo for the braided steel oil return line, which I think came from an 1100 Sport. Don't be tempted to make up a larger diameter return line than the O/E one. Guzziology warns against it - something to do with the engine plumbing needing that specific size to create some backpressure to avoid reverse flow? Are you using an oil cooler? Jihem - I think you are at cross-purposes on this one. It's the engine oil breather system not the airbox. GJ

Quite a number of what look like the rear Brembo Goldline calipers for our V10 & V11s coming up in this eBay seller's online shop Bikerlady GJ

Like this? V11Sport engine in high neck, LMV Tonti frame. http://img339.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p7270502dt7.jpg Third pic didn't thumbnail for some reason - click on link. GJ

With hard and fast 'technical' information like this it gets my vote: "When Hydraulic brakes are applied it creates a pressure spike that locks on the high and low spots on the rotor which can cause your wheel to lock." NOT! And what's this meant to mean? "Your brakes can still lock up with a TCB Valve installed, it just happens a different level where the added control will work to your advantage." I wonder if their product liability insurance is good enough to withstand a hit from someone who slams into another vehicle or item of street furniture because the valve gave them, "more range in your brake levers G."?

It's the EFI temp sensor. On the earlier FI sport bikes it's mounted up on the headstock and can read low in colder weather as it's directly in the airflow. The WM15M ECU has an onboard pressure sensor: "ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT As previously explained, the absolute pressure sensor is located inside the ECU; if the item Pressure on the page displays an error, this means that there is a cut-out in the circuit inside the ECU which goes to the sensor." Page 234 of the workshop manual. Have a read of this thread over on the COG before you make a decision to junk the airbox, (it's essentially the same item as the one on the V10), you might be surprised at how good the O/E 'box is with a few simple modifications. GJ

Those antivibe mountings sem to be prone to seperation in whatever application they are used in. Two out of four were like that on the V10 ecu mount - simple job to fix with superglue. BTW not sure if the V11Sport is the same in this respect but if it is, then the next time you have the tank off check the coil mounts - on the V10 the same antivibe rubbers are used to mount them as well and all were adrift. GJ

Even if they are compatible with MyECU, (not sure they are though), there is no need for any of those additional products with any of Cliff's MyECUs - the provided EcuController software will provide realtime readouts of oil and air temp, rpm, air pressure, throttle (TPS), battery voltage and O2 sensor v (if fitted). The rev limiter is adjustable and full map editing can be carried out either via the software or with Windows Notepad. GJ

Raz, I can say from personal experience that with a My16M, Phil's map and a slight modification to the standard airbox - which has already been mentioned here in a previous thread - that the dip in power, (stumble, hesitation, call it what you will), has been eliminated completely from the V10 - and this is with the standard expansion box crossover. Torque which is nearly 20% up on standard at 2,800rpm, (92% of the total at that point) and 92% again at 8,200rpm, (I've seen the dyno figures), and a useful 7hp increase to boot! So the torque 'curve' is essentially FLAT!!!! See the thread at airbox mod over on COG if you don't want to search for it here. If you are trying to contact Phil then again go via the COG Forum where you can see a sticky relating to maps giving Phil's details - don't expect an immediate reply though as he is flat out with tuning at the moment. I don't want to start a flame war here but the other thing that seems to excite people who have invested in a PCIII is the 'neccessity' of having the thing mapped on a dedicated Dynojet instrument. I'd say that to a large extent the My16M doesn't need it - even running open loop, maps are already available for the unit and it doesn't seem to be as sensitive to configuration changes - I've run it before making modifications and they just add 'the cream on the cake'. With Cliff's MyECU units you can also rig up a lambda sensor and run them closed loop so that the unit can tune itself if you want to go down that route. I can already hear PCIII users shouting that individual bikes need individual mapping - but think about this; do Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha and Kawasaki make fuel maps to suit each and every single bike they sell? Not in a million years. My take on the PCIII and tuning is that you may need individual mapping, (even then it may not be close to optimum), because it is essentially an add-on to the bikes O/E ECU and if that is suspect from the word go, (and we all know that is the case with the WM16M), then you are only trying to 'improve' on problems and not dealing with them head on. BTW isn't there also a financial interest for Dynojet in having each PCIII they or their dealers sell 'individually' mapped - maybe several times over? I have a PCIII fitted to my Cali EV with the P8 ECU and find that it doesn't significantly give any advantage over and above those that I can achieve by playing around with the TPS and idle mixture anyway. GJ

Raz, Carl et al, You betcha! And I believe he does. Yesterday morning I set up a Centauro with a My16 with Phil's map for one our guys over here - the grin on his face when he returned from a test run said it all He later said of his 150 mile ride home on mixed roads: "Biggest noticeable change is the smoothness at low & medium revs plus the extra grunt out of corners & it just flys when you keep it in third & fourth through the bends, makes getting the My16 worthwhile" Phil is the guy to contact regarding maps for any of Cliff's MyEcus but you might not get a reply straight away at the moment - he has been doing a lot of additional dyno work and is preparing a Daytona to run on the salt - "The Great White Dyno" at Lake Gairdner, S Australia early next year. GJ

I have a My16M on the V10 Centauro. I don't play with the mapping because I (you) can get a ready made map distilled from Phil Arnold's mega hours of work on the dyno. Turned it from bike with a stumble at 3.5K revs and a distinct step into the power at 5K revs, into a torque monster from just off idle all the way to the rev limiter. Open loop only and the best money I've ever spent on a bike. GJ