guzzijack

The lower mileage figure quoted was for the earlier spine frame bikes (Daytona 1000 & Carb Sport) which had no shock absorber in the drive train. Guzzi also specified changing the complete drive shaft at some ridiculously low mileage for the same reason. I guess with the experience gained from the V10/Daytona RS/Sporti they revised the figures to reflect better longevity on the units. GJ

He better hope not! GJ

Been using one of these over the winter months. CTEK Charger Works well. My Cali EV was constantly draining the battery due to the alarm, (even when only in the immobilise function), using this as a battery tender on the Odyssey stopped that happening and it also revived a dead O/E battery on my '97 V10 Centauro enough to be fit for daily use. GJ

Don't think you'll find one for the P32B Goldline caliper as used on the spine frame rear though If Greg can't get a listing for one through Moto International then I'm willing to believe what I've already been told - that Brembo don't do one. Plenty of rebuild kits available for other calipers but for some strange reason that one is missing. If the 'lawsuit' urban myth has been laid to rest, I wonder why that should be? BTW. My caliper from Ian E Racing is on the way. GJ

OK, so Brembo don't want us to take these things apart for whatever reason and therefore they must figure that the best way to stop Joe Public messing with their products is to make sure that there are no caliper rebuild kits available! After a disc blueing piston seize on the rear caliper of my V10 Centauro, (same caliper as the V11, right?), I did what I've done with all previous calipers I've wanted to refurbish and stripped it down and ordered a seal and piston kit and waited............ and waited............and waited..............and finally received something for what looks like a V50 caliper which of course doesn't fit. No rebuild kit available apparently. So a quick scout around reveals: Brembo P32B Goldline caliper from Teo Lamers is £88.04 (Euro 129.45) plus postage. Found this go kart and bike supplies place here in the UK Ian E Racing Price is £48.55 plus postage but including a set of pads. Deal Probably a good idea to shop around for similar go kart racing suppliers in your own country as it appears these are popular calipers for that application. GJ

Fair 'nuff but if you start getting a 'long lever' after the engine warms up and you've covered a few miles then the chances are the thrust bearing has decided to enter itself for the flotation test contest (Guzziology joke ). Keep posting, these ones are always interesting and maybe we can start a sweepstake on what you'll eventually find GJ

I'll ditto what Nigel has said. Although when the thrust bearing started to go out on my Centauro, (both clutch plates still had enough meat on them), it was progressive with adjustment required at both levers until none was left and getting worse as the motor heated up. Pulling the rod and bearing is the best (and cheapest!) place to start. After that, if you have to go further in then you may want to prepare for the crabbing by having a look see at the technical section on Jen's Website . Whether you decide to go the whole hog and shim the gearbox and change out the suspect input and output bearings is up to you for your own bike - personally, if it were mine I would - (full instructions on Jen's site as well). With the mileage your father's bike has I think it would be worth doing both the clutch and the gearbox for peace of mind. GJ

Cross-posting this on a few Guzzi related forums to catch any UK readers who may want to see and hear Pete in action Hands on gearbox strip/inspection/shim & reassemble with a few 5 speed 'boxes to play with. Based in my workshop/garage in Tiverton, Devon which is 7 speed camera free miles down the dual carriageway A361 from J27 of the M5 - just the road to blow some cobwebs out of the bike! Saturday 24th March afternoon and early evening followed by beers and a bite to eat at our place/local pub(s). On Sunday, weather permitting, I'll put together a rideout around 'sunny' Exmoor, which is on our doorstep, morning/early afternoon for those who are interested. We have some accomodation available for a couple of lucky souls including Pete but there are plenty of local B&Bs in town or nearby and I'll furnish you with details on request. PM me at guzzijack@yahoo.co.uk if you're interested and I'll get back to you. Pete and others are trying to arrange other demos near Winchester and maybe 'oop North - see the UK Yahoo Guzzi Group http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/motoguzzigroupgb/ for details.

This outfit has been doing replcement stainless header clamps Pratt-Lay not sure if they list them now but maybe an email will get a response? GJ

No need. There is a relatively easy way around this. If you are intending to run carbs then you don't need most of the input sensors that would normally be found on a V11 motor - just use the cam/phase sensor as a trigger for the sparks. Don't forget that there is NO, I repeat NO, way you can mount a Guzzi distributor on the V11 block as there is no mount for it - not even an unmachined boss as with the V10 Centauro/Daytona. In any event the cam has no dizzy drive so it's a lost cause. Get in touch with Cliff MyECU and he will advise you which of his products will best suit your needs but if it is the same scenario as the myself, with a V11S engine going into a Tonti frame and running on carbs, then an early itteration of his MyECU series should do. This will allow programmable spark advance, duration etc, etc. In fact I believe everything a My15/16M will do with regard to the sparks but let Cliff advise you. The Rec-Ignition module is good and still available to my knowledge, (it better be because I'm just about to order one for a race bike project!!), but that needs a dizzy - with or without Dyna rotor - to work so that's for earlier engines. I'm going with Mikuni 41mm flatsides because of cost considerations and the easy availability of jets etc. Keihen FCRs would obviously be the cream on the cake but price is beyond my budget and they come up on eBay with the same regularity as rocking horse shite. BTW Dr John Wittner seems to think Mikunis would be a good idea as well. I did read somewhere that the reasons the daddy of the V11 engine series - the 1100Sport Carb - used Dellortos instead of Mikunis were down to existing commercial interests, expense, (price for a pair of Mikunis being close to the EFI solution), and the lack of a European Mikuni R&D facility to ensure Euro compliance. What are you planning on doing with the rest of the bike frame-wise? Something of a bastardised vesion of one of the Deccla racers with the abbreviated Tonti frame but a mono rear end would be really cool and a certain head turner George's Racing Pics. Here's an example: Best of luck Graham

Nigel, I've just picked up on this one as well - sorry. There should be no problem in obtaining the 'good' bearings from any major UK supplier - try NSKs from WYKO http://www.wyko.co.uk/. Specs of all the seals and bearings are on Jen's website in the technical section http://www.guzzitech.dk/english/index.htm with generic bearing codes. The plastic ones are shite and will succumb again sooner rather than later - the 3205 AC3 (JC3) are the ones to fit. Deffo a good idea to also replace the output bearing as, IMHO from the 'boxes I've taken apart, that seems to be the one that gets hammered a bit more than the input side. Maybe due to more lateral force on the shaft due to the proximity of the UJ? Input and output seals are different even though dimensionally they are the same - 35x47x7 - Viton (brown) for the front rotation but don't use it in the rear cover otherwise oil can piss out! I had the clutch actuating rod thrust bearing go out on my V10 'box and that gave symptoms of progressively bad engagement as the 'box got hotter. Bit late now and not wishing to appear a smart arse, but it was probably better to post this on one of the forums where the 5 speed box is more likely to be in use (COG, Guzzitech etc) Anyhow, well done on the shim job GJ BTW. I have a set of Rolf's special sockets here in the UK and could always loan them to you if you need them in the future - just PM me.

Bumping this one up again as Harold has issued an update: Dear Guzzi-owners, please have a look at the attached file. It shows the actual status for orders for the 4-valve-covers projectfor Centauro - Daytona - MGS01. Please check wether I put you in with the right number of covers. By now I received orders for around 165 covers, so hopefully in a few weeks I can place the order to Taiwan. But, to reach the target quantity a.s.a.p., I ask you to please do more promotion for this project through Internet-communities, clubs, websites etc. THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT!! I will update you from time to time. Thank you. Freundliche Grüße / Best regards Harold Quirl Email harold.quirlt-online.de Spambot prevention: replace with the usual@)

Happy New Year for starters Posting this here as well as on the COG forum as a 'you never know'. I'm looking for a V10 Centauro 5 speed gearbox and have a very low mileage V11 Sport 6 speed 'box to offer in exchange if anyone is looking for one. I'm using the V11 Sport engine, (running on carbs), in my Dr John project and the gearbox that came with it is in very good condition and located in the UK. Send me a PM to guzzijackyahoo.co.uk (replacing the with @ of course ), if you are interested. GJ

Try him here harold.quirlt-online.de (replace the with the normal @ - spambot prevention ) GJ

Yes, Devcon F is what professional engine builders and machinists use for repairing casting damage Devcon Website GJ

Better idea is a tubular electric heater from all good electrical wholesalers. Cost about £10, use as much electricity as a light bulb but have thermostatic control. GJ

Better have one of mine then Only two bottles now left though GJ

I think there was a clue in Harolds message : "So, when I saw this die cast thing, I thought of all the poor 4-valves drivers. The covers are not available anymore, and second hand ones are rare to find and expensive. So why not producing new ones for a low price?" V11 Sport and other 2 valve model rocker covers out of production? I guess the reason Guzzi are calling the new Griso 1200 an 8v is to differentiate that engine from the earlier Daytona/Centauro/MGS-01 4 valve per cylinder versions as there appears to be completely new camshaft and valve train arrangement. GJ

Nigel, The workshop manual for the Daytona/Cenaturo/1100Sporti shows that when taking the WP USD forks apart for seal renewal there is a retaining (stop) ring that has to be removed followed by a security red bush which has three marks. The accomapanying diagram shows quite a few seals and rings in there so you might want to carefully note the order in which they come out. If you want a copy of the 'pdf manual (in English) drop me a PM with your details and I'll burn one to CD - it's a bit big to email - 512 pages & 8.22Mb but I could try. Graham

And there was I thinking it was his inflated ego and misinterpretation of what qualifies as 'fast riding' that drives that thing along My mistake

Thanks for that Pierre, I'll have to check the conversion from Kilo to lb to see how that compares but I see yours has 8 clutch springs compared to the later 10 spring clutches fitted to the Daytona RS, Centauro and V11Sport (not sure if it's the same clutch for the V11S as to the other two though). I suspect that yours would therefore be somewhat heavier than these later types though possibly not as heavy as the LM1000 one I also have which was the one lightened by Guzzitech. Graham

This is a slightly off camber question as it will not ultimately apply to a V11S. We are currently in the 'parts collection' phase to build a roundfin based classic endurance racer. Amongst other items that have been disintered from beneath the workbench is a complete and new V11S flywheel, ring gear and driven plate which I had forgotten about. Comparing it with the LMV components I also have and looking at the appropriate Guzzitech webpage Flywheel Lightening there is hardly any difference between the lightened older unit and the standard V11S one - in fact the V11S components come out marginally lighter. Bearing in mind that this motor is being put together for 6 hour plus endurance races - not short circuit sprints - any advice on whether or not to trim something from the V11S unit would be helpful, especially if you've done it yourself. Cheers Graham

You mean Cherie?

Oh!....... I get the picture . Now that you've sewn up the world distribution rights on Guzzi filter sized hose clamps suddenly you're all in favour of 'insisting' that all and sundry should use this new technology Surely a better plan for the home mechanic would be the careful placement of a 6" 'Hagan' through the lateral axis of the filter so that it locked it against the thermostat housing to prevent unspinning? Such a mechanical sacrifice would surely keep the bad Ju Ju away and prevent smaller 'Hagans' being attracted to the tyres? Whaddaya think Graham

Hi Tim, No not mine. Moira and I were there on the red/cream Cali EV - Centauro is hanging from the rafters while I do the clutch and sloppage sheet. Graham