guzzijack

I presume the V11S nipples on the exposed driveshaft/UJs are in the same(ish) locations as my V10 Centauro on the 2 UJs and the coupling sleeve? I can get on them all by using a flexible hose and connector on a standard gun. Got one complete with rigid and flexi fittings from a branch of Tool Station. Machine Mart also do similar flexi connectors. Both outfits have branches nationwide. Graham

Same thing happened on my Centauro this summer. Cause was rock hard piston seals in the caliper which finally gave way and leaked. It's a minor job to remove and strip the caliper so I'd recommend it for peace of mind. Graham

Try to narrow the location down a bit. Think of all the items that would have been removed/loosened to do the work. Go round the bike with a couple of spanners and screwdrivers. You say you can hear it with the engine off and rolling downhill - in neutral I presume? If so you can eliminate timing chain, camshaft etc. Have you looked at the brake rotors and calipers/ anything stuck in there or not tightened? Loose exhaust clamps or downpipes hitting on the block? Graham

I'm reliably informed by our (very small) man on the spot that it is between 16.97 and 24.65 but increases rapidly to a high point of around 39.22 at maximum revs. As a comparison, at idle it should measure 11.39. Hope that answers the question - what was it I'm sure nobody - including Pete - has an answer to this and why would they? The whole point of the plate/sheet is to keep the bulk of the oil in the sump from slopping around. Normal operating requirements of the engine in terms of oil feed from the pump etc would be unaltered. Graham (In jest)

Sounds as if you have the correct sump gaskets for installation of the sloppage sheet to me. Those being the upper ones where the sump extension attaches to the engine block. Don't forget that the lower gasket - the one you usually see when you drop the sump to change the oil filter (if you don't use the manhole cover) is a larger gasket - hence the term 'Broad Sump' for V11Sports, Daytonas and Centauros - without the extra bits for the oil galleries. Have a close look at Greg's pictures on Sloppage Sheet Installation and it should become clear. Other than that could it be you've ended up with something weird, like for a V65, V50 or similar? Graham

Hi Keith. Yes, it's a Dr John replica for the project bike in my signature line that's slooooowwwwly getting put together. Dr John Project They collected and used my original LMV rolling chassis/engine as a pattern although I have the V11Sport engine to drop in once I've rebuilt the gearbox, (clutch & cush drive took a trip to the 'flotation tank test' ). Give them a PM about costs and availability - they'll probably need to borrow a bike locally to use as the pattern. Brausch Niemann is the head honcho there and very helpful bloke. BTW have you dropped a 'sloppage sheet' in yet? I picked a couple up direct from Pete in Cambridge so I'm doing the Centauro one this weekend and will do the V11S engine as and when. Graham

Ha, ha! Well at least you're in the right country Gazelle Exhausts Good people to do business with and very enthusiastic. Graham

Why hold back? Go the whole hog and stick one of these on You know you want to Graham

OK Phil, Got that - heat gun here we come again Graham

Cross posting this here as the 'Why I prefer paper filters' thread and this one are both becoming focused on modified airboxes. Here's the pic of mine with inlets belled out to 50mm I/D and 3 x 25 holes in the rear of the lid to negate a disruptive harmonic that occurs there. ]Airbox[/url] See the other thread for Phil A's information on the power gains from the various modifications. Graham

Here are the airbox modifications mentioned earlier: ]Bellmouth[/url] Rubber intake elbows removed and 50mm I/D bellmouth created using heat gun and bottle neck. ]Airbox lid[/url] 3 x 25mm holes at rear of lid and side view of the bellmouths on the intakes Hope that clarifies things Works for me Graham

No, not K&N pods - from Phil's testing the cumulative best result was to remove the rubber dodads and open up the intakes on the airbox to 50mm, drill the 3 holes towards the back of the lid, use a standard filter element (or K&n replacement) and remap the My16M. Seems to be a bit of confusion about the term 'bellmouth' here and above. When Phil has referred to the 'bellmouth' being taken out to 50mm it's the intake 'bellmouth' on the airbox once the rubber 'schnorkels' have been removed. You use a heat gun and a suitably shaped bottle neck to flare them out to a 50mm bellmouth in easy stages. I'll take a pic tonight and post it here. Graham

Greg, I'll take the opportunity to reply on Phil's behalf as we're in time zones on opposite sides of the planet and he's probably asleep at the moment. When he/I mentioned opening up the 'bellmouths' to 50mm it refers to the ports on the intake side of the airbox. I.E. the inlets under the tank that are left after you have taken off the rightangled 'schnorkels' which are held in place with the large hose clips. Nothing further into the inlet tract than the airbox lid is touched or modified. To answer Nogbads question as to why all this time and effort (Phil's not mine!) has been devoted to gaining such a small (?) increase in bhp and torque. Well with the V10 engine and also the 1100 Sport Injection there were/are problems with the standard ECU/FI anyway. So in resolving these issues Cliff Jefferies has developed the My16M ECU and Phil has done an enormous amount of development work with fuel maps for the My16M, (possibly also My15M as well as he has told me he has a map suitable for the ECU box Cliff has supplied me for the V11 Sport engine I am going to run on carbs), and airbox modification as you can gather. BTW in answer to someone who said that all this work on the V10 airbox was not really relevant to the 2 valve engines - the Sport 1100 Injection (direct predecessor of the V11 Sport maybe?) is a 2 valve engine so there are maybe valid comparisons in the airbox modification department. Graham

No not just you As a spinoff to his work on the Daytona 4 valver, there's a whole heap of historical information out there about Dr John Wittner's adventures in positive pressure airbox land with the 1100 Sport Carb - one of the forerunners to the V11Sport. My (perceived) reading of it is that for the sake of a minimal increase in BHP at WOT the tradeoff was a stuttering pig at real world riding levels. This was something that Dr J and the Guzzi engineering department couldn't overcome given the time and financial constraints that they were operating under at the time. As a fer instance they would have preferred to use at least Mikuni Flatside carbs instead of the 'ancient' Dells, (Keihen FCRs would have been the icing on the cake!), but Mikuni did not have an R&D facility in Europe to assist with emmissions compliance and there were probably contractual and financial considerations as well. FWIW here's what I've done with the similar airbox on the Centauro (with acknowledgement to Phil A). Take off the right angled intake pieces. Using a heat gun on the intake 'schorkels' get them hot enough so that the plastic is shiney and then gradually bell them out with a suitably sized bottle neck - HP Sauce suited me! - until you have an ID of 50mm. It may take a few heat/ream/cool cycles to get there but the end result should be a smooth intake bellmouth. Then drill two 25mm or thereabouts holes on the top rear of the airbox just in from the corners with another positioned centrally and slightly forward of them - this, according to others more educated in these matters than myself, removes a disruptive harmonic that occurs in the standard box which manifests itself when you wind it on big time. This modification apparently passes some 5% more air than the O/E configuration but allows the retention of the standard airfilter, (or K&N or Amsoil flat plate replacement), with a slight but enjoyable increase in intake honk. The real world result is that I am experiencing a noticably smoother ride, better throttle response with no glitches or stumbles and an enhanced aural experience To get back on track with Greg's start to this thread - yes OK there was a lot of crud in the standard filter after X amount of miles some of which were on dirt roads, but I happen to run an 'internal' K&N which will give the same results - dirty filter and clean airbox. Why? because I clean and oil the filter every 6k miles (every 2nd service interval) and don't leave it to run for zillions of miles before maintenance. My filter, including the cost of a bottle of cleaner and oil, will pay me back over the cost of O/E paper filters within a year or two of bike ownership without increasing engine wear. Comments anyone? Graham

Knowing that many of you frequent Wildguzz here's an alert. There's a self replicating virus ripping through that list at the moment causing posting under the name 'Daniel Craig'. If you recieve any personal messages on the board or emails from that sender I suggest you delete them without opening. Graham

Pete, My thoughts are with you - went through the same thing with my Dad this summer - and I hope you and yours are coping OK. I'll bell you after 8pm tonight or tomorrow and try to meet up as, when and if convenient. I'll be in Cambridge myself on Saturday 16th if that is in anyway convenient. Graham

Not as great a problem as it seems at first though This is exactly what I'm doing by dropping the V11 Sport mill into the LM V Tonti frame and running Mikuni Flatside carbs. Todd used the complete EFI system on his V11/Jackal hybrid so it wasn't such an issue for him. Dr John Project As the V11 engine has the phase sensor running off the cam that is all that is required to act as an ignition trigger. Cliff can provide an adaptation of his early MyECU box, (not Rec-Ignition - that's for the original dizzy and Dyna pickup equipped systems), that can be programmed in just the same way as My16M and the other FI boxes to give variable ignition features such as advance curves, spark duration etc. etc. It is a very elegant solution and offers considerable advantages over any other electronic ignition that would have run off of the dizzy system. Other items for a V11 to Tonti swap which need to be addressed are: Timing cover must be changed or altered - preferrably to an EFI non-spine one such as a Cali EV. The upper V11 engine mounts foul the Tonti frame and could be ground off if you are really careful. You could use an early cover but would need to blank off the rev counter drive somehow. Oil return path needs to be altered. On the Tonti there are two spigots on the rear frame cross member which return oil to the heads. The V11 Sport has one larger return to the rear of the sump. I've welded the R/H one up and opened up and welded a larger spigot onto the L/H one ready to take a banjo and single return to the sump. I understand that sizing may be critical so I'm endevouring to keep it all to the I/D of the V11 system. Five speed gearbox is a straight bolt up. Rev counter (and speedo/odometer) is taken care of by using a Stack electronic multifunction instrument or similar. Got delayed finishing the project before this summer - plus getting the Centauro didn't help - but I'm getting there Graham

Pete, Are you intending to bring any up to the UK with you when you come? I've tried your email with this but nothing seems to get picked up - maybe the 'puter needs a bit of Yak fat on the innards If and when you finalise your movements give me an email, we can always meet up for a beer of two. Graham

General Guzzi interest only - plus a few pics of a nice V11 Sport 'Streetfighter' and a Ghezzi and Brian. V Twin Pics Organised by the Moto Guzzi Club Great Britain and held at Fordingbridge, Hampshire over the August Bank Holiday weekend. All riders and bikes welcome but with non V Twins parking in a 'sin bin'. Great weekend, excellent entertainment every night and on-site catering available if you don't want to cook your own and can't stumble across the bridge into town! Graham

Pete, When are you coming up topside and what are your movements? Any chance of a plate or two coming with you? (One for the V11Sport motor in the Tonti and another for the Centauro). Graham

Yes - on the V11 California EV. Useful on long hauls to allow you to flex your hand without speed dropping off but I wouldn't say that I'd miss it too much if it wasn't there. Certainly the cheaper option compared to a Throttlemeister and I have no problem overriding the friction if I want to throttle up or down without releasing it. A tip though - if you do decide to fit one get the model for the Yamaha not the Universal fitment one. The universal has a great big fugly bar and clamp arrangement whereas the Yamaha one will fit Guzzi switchgear and throttle group OK with a bit of filing. Graham

I've got to disagree with you on this one. and maybe give a bit of a warning to anyone who is thinking of running without a kill switch. The Centauro I recently bought had been standing in a garage for over 4 years and although I serviced and cleaned the hell out of it - including running a couple of tankfulls of injector cleaner through it to make sure all was well - I didn't think to strip out the throttle bodies, simply because there was no indication of any problems whatsoever. On the run down to the Trofeo Rosso in July I was leading our small group and waiting in line for an overtaking opportunity on one of those 'two lanes one way and one the other' D roads which alternate the priority every couple of lilometers so no-one gets too frustrated. When we hit the two lane section I hit the throttle and the engine hit the rev limiter for a quick upward change.............only thing was it didn't come back down Believe me, with a very rapidly approaching bend coming up you don't have time to start reaching around for keys to switch off - I only just about made it to the kill switch and brakes before it was time for a hospital visit. My advice to anyone thinking of disabling or removing the kill switch is DONT. If you are likely to need it there is a good chance that you're going to need it in a hurry and you won't get a secong chance. Of course each to their own but give it some thought. Graham

Yes, Should have WM 16F in big writing on the sticker on the back of the box. Graham

That's right. It appears that all the Weber Marelli WM16 series ECU boxes are the same in terms of connector and housing - and those are the only components that matter if you are going to have a My16M. Many were used on various models of Fiat during the 1990s and the one I sourced was from a Punto 1.2ie on eBay for £8. Try doing an eBay search under 'Fiat ECU' or similar and you should pull up quite a few matches. Either that or a local car breakers will be able to help. If your going to bid for one on eBay have a good look at the picture or email the seller to ensure it's a 16F box as the later Puntos have a different ECU. No doubt 15M boxes are also available from some automobile application it's just a question of doing some searching to find out which one I'm waiting for a cheap P8 box from a Fiat Croma or Coupe to show up and then I'll go for one of Cliff's MyP8 ECUs as well. Graham

This is for a V10 Centauro but Cliff also does a My15M for the V11 Sports and other later model Guzzis. MyECU I recently took delivery of one of Cliff's My16M replacement EFIs, built into a Fiat WM 16F box I sourced on eBay. Warmed the bike up on the O/E box as instructed and then fitted the My16M. The bike is standard apart from an aftermarket crossover and a K&N in the O/E airbox. I loaded up Phil Arnold's latest map, dialled in the TPS idle setting (83) and saved it to the map file and took the C for a spin around the block. I was immediately struck by how much smoother the bike was at small throttle openings and in the lower rev range. Whereas before it was all a bit notchy below 4K and the throttle was doing the light switch thing, now it was like riding a totally different bike!!!!!!!! About as smooth as a Guzzi can get. Then I took it for a trial blast up our local 7 mile stretch of dual carriage way - no turn offs and only a couple of lay-bys and bridges so you can have a good look-see for the Plod on the way out and hit it on the way back in . Although I had previously set the EFI up by the book, (not the original EFI factory manual with it's 'twist the TPS and let it go to set it' approach I hasten to add ), and done the TB balance to the nth degree prior to the trip down to the Trofeo Rosso, the bike was still a bit, well, 'brutal' in response to large throttle openings and seemed to bounce off the rev limiter very quickly to remind me to change up. After fitting the MY16M with Phil's latest map I found the perceived response of the bike a bit deceptive at first as it was all so smooth everywhere in the rev range. It was only by noting where I was changing up and actually looking at the speedo - plus the rapidity with which I was coming up on other traffic - that I realised how quickly the plot was shifting and how near I was to needing a change of underpants As you can probably gather, the initial impression was very, very favourable and now that I've put a few more miles on it I can't fault it. So the verdict is, money well spent. FWIW i've got a PCIII on the '97 Cali EV and, although there was an improvement in driveability noticed after fitting it, it was nothing like the transformation made to the Centauro. Cliff's ECUController software is also a breeze to use. Hats off to Cliff & Phil. Graham