pShenk

Is there supposed to be a gasket where the header meets the head? I took mine out this weekend to put in a stucci x-over, and I didn't see no gaskets. Putting headers back, it seems like they are just loosely pressing against the inside of the cylinder head, and then clamped against it. But there is play around the diameter of the header pipe (the clamp holds it very firm, or course). Anyway, I noticed some popping, semi-back firing today, so I was wondering if these are on correctly. Also, I removed the charcoal filter, and the vacum tube that goes into the air intake... there is a little nozzle there that I haven't done anything about yet. Maybe the popping is due to this "leak" in the intake side? Another maybe stupid question. The inside of the header and the head itself is totally soot-black. Is this cool? I was thinking maybe it's a symptom of a poor fuel-air mix.

Yeah, it's true. On the bright side, nobody checks these things for bikes. And we seem to get away with louder pipes than you. Isn't there pending legislation in GB banning loud exhausts? BTW, is that bung on the crossover for an O2 sensor?

Thanks Ratchet. I haven't taken it for a long ride yet, but I'm looking forward to it. Now, with all the intake and exhaust mods I've made, I guess some kind of ECU work will help. I'm currently reading threads for info on the options. Yeah, mine went on easy. I took everything off from headers back. I was worried about the charcoal canister, the hard metal vent tube that loops up through the gap in the x-over was getting in the way. It was a relief to just take that whole mess out. The tube to the tank wasn't even connected anyway... it kept slipping off the nipple. So yours was bent? What did you do, bend it into shape? That sucks.

I know this is an old topic, but I just removed my charcoal filter also. THere is a vacum tube that runs up, then splits, then enters the pipe just in front of the throttle bodies. I pulled the tubes off, and there is a little brass nozzle that they were mounted to. What have people done about those two brass nozzles? Just leave them as-is? Stucci x-over feels great so far!

That might explain why I haven't heard anything. Do they get the month off like France does? Crap, their holiday time = my biking time!

Yes, thanks, that helps a lot. I ordered it yesterday (I hope it went through, I haven't gotten a confirmation email yet), along with a red anodized "indicator cover", and some injector covers. I really want the red anodized resevoir caps, and the red cardon bar also, but it looks like they are out of stock. I see on your other post that you got the billet triple tree also. I see a pic of it on their site, but no link to order it. What color choices did you have? Do you like it? Thanks again for the info.

Cool, what turn signals did you use? Do you have any pics?

I found another thread that where people have been having great success ordering from Rossopuro. I'm still intersted to see any pics of the tail section and fender eliminator though, if anyone's got em of their bike.

Gargoyle, do you have any pics of the tail light assembly on your bike? The Rossopuro site says "no image available" Thanks for your post about your experience though... I'll definately be ordering from these guys.

What are you going to buy? I've been looking at their stuff also.

I'm looking at this tail section: Rossopurro tailsection And am wondering if any yanks have ordered this, how long it took, and if there were any issues putting it on a V11 sport. Do the stock turn signals mount underneath it with no problems? Ideally, I'd like to mount a fender eliminator kit also, like this one: FBF fender eliminator although if I got the rossopurro part, I wouldn't need the LED tail light in the FBF kit. Anyone have a setup like this on their sport?

Thanks Ratchet! I've got a service manual on order, but hasn't come in yet. Actually, it's been awhile, I should check up on that.

Ok, got it all cleaned and greased. Any confirmation on the 88 ft/lbs torque setting? I read in another thread that it can screw up the wheel bearings if the torque is too high.

You know, I thougt I did, but now thinking back on it, I think I was confused. I was looking at the needle roller race, and cleaned that off and greased it, but now I'm seeing that you meant the actual bearing mounted in the bevel box. I didn't do that one. Does it come out, or clean it as it is, mounted in the bevel box? I did pack grease between it and the the spacer that sits against the outside of the bearing. But I didn't clean it out. I might as well take the wheel off again tonight, and do that. Heh, thanks for looking out for me. I saw on another thread that the axle nut should be torqued to 88 ft/lbs. Does that sounds right? And finally, is there ever any reason to remove the bevel box, open it up, and check the grease in there? Is that one place that MG might have "forgot" to lube? Hey Bill, glad it "worked" for you. By cotter pin, do you mean the pin and the metal block that slips onto it, that is mounted on the left swingarm, that the brake caliper plate pivots on? I can't visualize what you mean otherwise... I didn't run into anything else quite like you're describing. For me, once I pulled the axle out a little bit (throught the caliper plate), the caliper plate just pivoted downward on that pin/block, and I could slide it off. I had to wiggle it a little to clear the rim, but it worked. I also removed the hugger to give myself some better access to the wheel. I might leave it off, looks kind of cool.

I got it all back together, and liberally greased. Everything was really dry in there... I put grease on the gear that links the wheel to the bevel box. It was pretty rusty. Funny, but it rolls so much smoother now. Maybe it's just my imagination, but it sure seems to. The nut on the end of the pin (the brake side), would I thread lock it?

Thanks guys. Nogbad, what's the bevel box? I assume that's the thing I was calling the gearbox... at the end of the shaft drive? Should I check the bearings for proper greasing while I've got the wheel off? How freely should they spin?

Ok, I got the pin out, and it was a beast! It wasn't even really rusted, it just stuck about half-way through, and wouldn't go. I managed to eventually wiggle it the right way, and got it out. Would it be a bad thing to apply a little grease to the pin when I put it back in? Just a very thin film I'm thinking. Also, there is a short shim, about 1/2" long that looks like it goes on the pin, between the gearbox and the wheel. That's the only place I can think that it dropped from. THe manual says "careful not to loose shim D", so I'm guessing that's it.

Got it, thanks. I wondered if there was a cap on the blunt end, but it looked like metal. I didn't look hard enough I guess. Power Pilots, here I come

I got a flat on my rear tire, and I figured this is a good excuse to put new tires on. I've never removed the wheels before, so I'm following the instructions in the manual. Step one says remove nut "A". So I go to remove it, and it's very tight. I crank with just about all I got, and it starts to spin. I'm thinking, well it's got to get loose soon, but after about 4 turns, it's still super tight. Then I notice that the threaded pin that its on... the one that runs through the brake caliper plate and the wheel... is spinning. On the other side (the non-caliper side), the pin is flat. There's nothing to hold on to to keep it from spinning. Any ideas? Am I doing it wrong?

Pods are ON, and they work great. They are a little louder than stock, but I thought it would be more obvious. There's just a little extra percussive "honk" that is slightly offset from the exhaust note. It makes the whole symphony a little more burbley. I'm still trying to decide if I like it or not. And I'm still using the ECU that I got with the MG Ti silencers, so maybe I'd get more kick with some custom map. I like the idea of putting the sensor in a little box, but I'll probably mount it closer to the intake, just to be more accurate about what's coming into the pods. I doubt it makes a huge difference though. RIght now it's just zip-tied to the spine The only real downside is all the wiring and brake cable that's now exposed, running up the rear-right strut.

Those are SWEET! I'm just installing my K&N pods now, and I'm wondering what people do with the air temp sensor that was mounted to the airbox? Just wire it up to the spine somewhere?

Lol, thanks all for the info. I should have seen that FAQ on my own. Like I said, I kind of just want to try it and see what they're like. Some point down the road I might do an airbox mod, or go back to stock... or something.

I've been looking at putting on pod filters, partly to see what happens, partly cause I think they look cool, and partly to get rid of the airbox, so I have easier access to the rear shock (adjusting preload). If anyone's done this, can you tell me what all is involved? Do they just slip onto the tubes coming from the throttle bodies? Anything tricky to removing the airbox? What K&N parts to get? And is K&N the way to go for these? Are there any other pod type filter dealies that I should look at? Another also, will this place any undue stress on the throttle bodies, since they'll be supporting these pods by themselves now.

Well, maybe I take that back about the rotors... I just went down to the garage and tried this: 1) lift up the front end 2) take a c-clamp and put it around the brake lever/grip. Slowly tighten until the front tire is pretty hard to rotate, like just before the brakes really lock the wheel. 3) Continue rotating the wheel under this consistent braking pressure. So, there is *clearly* a spot where the rotors can barely turn through the calipers. If I force it past this point though, it loosens up and spins much more easily, until it reaches the tight spot again. Oh, and I also measured the length from bottom of each fork tube to the lower triple clamp... they both look exactly the same length.

Polebridge, that's a good call... the previous owner had the forks off to change the fork oil, IIRC. That would be something to check. I will check the spacers also. I had the front off the ground today, to raise the forks in the triple-tree (to try and fix some speed wobble I'm having), and I noticed that the front wheel does *not* spin completely freely. There is always a slight friction of rotor against the brake pads. Is this normal? Maybe it is, but I wasn't expecting it. I suppose I could see why you would always want them to rest very slightly on the disk. Thanks for all the advice! Btw, the rotors do not appear to be warped, at least as far as I can tell by spinning the front wheel.