dhansen
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Posts posted by dhansen
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Hi Folks.
Haven't been on here for ages. Good to see things are moving along.
I've got to do the seals in my rear drive this spring so I was searching for threads on the subject. I found several, including Docc's and Pete's but I seem to remember another with lots of photos and some examples of homemade tools to make the task easier. Was it by Andy York? Am I imagining things? Whatever, I haven't found it if it exists.
Any guidence would be appreciated.
TIA, Dennis in Maine.
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. I assumed it was a broken wire where they flex all the time. I will fix it over the winter.
To my experience, the problem is the slide in bullet connectors, where the sleeve portion of the connector is wallowed out to too large a size, not making contact with the bullet part. I suspect that heat under the tank may even contribute to the sizing disparity.
I had the same symptoms. Full left thunk on the bars resulted in a start. Cleaned the two connectors that the sidestand switch wires run through (under the tank, left side of frame) and no more starting trouble.
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Maybe I should leave mine at home too..........
Take the bus!
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Since twhitaker brought up some alternative to hooters pics, I thought this fine old thread deserved another go-round...... And something fresh to go with it.
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Are any of you going to the Moto Guzzi/BMW rally in Heath MA this weekend?
I'll be there if all goes well. Roper may very well show up. Come join the fun!
I just might do that Dennis if I can figure out how to fit my camping gear on the bike. If you see a red & gray LeMans with a couple of canoe camping dry bags on it trundling in on Friday that will be me. Hope to see you & Pete there!
I really have no bike friendly camping gear or any racks, bags or luggage for the bike. Some of the Mass-boys are helping me out with that. Should be a great time whatever happens!
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Are any of you going to the Moto Guzzi/BMW rally in Heath MA this weekend?
I'll be there if all goes well. Roper may very well show up. Come join the fun!
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Axone is in DHL's hands now.
Should be in States in a few days, in DH's hands.
And it has arrived safely here in Maine. Working on plans for its future deployment.
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Clogged tank vent? Try running it with the gas cap open.
Yup, yup. My first thought.
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Hi,
I have pulled a couple of old regulators apart now, it's not that hard, you just need to be a bit carefull removing the circuit board so as not to damage some expensive parts. If anyones interested I gan do a blow by blow proceedure.
Roy
K-Roy, I have my OEM regulator that was giving me the intermittent high voltage issue. If I could repair it, it would be nice to have a spare.
If you have time/desire to do the write-up, I'd be interested.
Dennis
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The transmission has a fluid level window. Add fluid until the window is at least half full or better when the bike is vertical. THE rear drive you can take the bolt out in the middle rear and fill at the top until fluid is coming out or close to coming out the hole or a little less, with the bike held vertical again.
I did the middle rear plug method when I switched to Redline heavy. Gave it plenty of time to settle but still ended up puking starwberry milkshake out the vent in the top plug for months. Still does it a little after spirited rides.
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Check the Breather Hose! IT seems to be the number 1 cause of oil leak (that seems to look like it's from everywhere but) Clean up the engine and squirt baby powder all over it. Take if for a short ride. This will help you tell the difference between where it's really coming from and from splatter.
Just a couple weeks ago I found the same situation, oil dripping from everything. What a forking mess. Thank you breather hose. Let go right up front above the 90 degree bend. I assumed the worst but other than the big mess, I feel lucky it wasn't something more serious.
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She is a beauty Buzzard. I'm just a few years behind you and share the same feelings. If it weren't for my Guzzi I think I might have given up riding.
Good catch on the kill switch.
Many happy miles to you. Dennis in Maine.
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Shoe Goo, thats funny. The stuff does work good on shoes though, I've used it.
Can't imagine why the shock mounts wouldn't be molded in one piece?
Thanks guys.
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I'm in the process of replacing my crankcase vent hose and noticed that the coils move around alot. Looks to me like the rubber shock mounts that fasten the coil bracket to the frame have come apart.
Anyone else ever have this happen or am I missing something here?
TIA, Dennis in Maine.
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Just back from a 2 hour ride with the Breva regulator installed and I'm cautiously optomistic. Not a hint of the old troubles so far. I can't remember that last time I rode for that length of time without experiencing the surging and bucking. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
I would be interested in a voltage meter of some sort. Preferably not Lucas! I had asked about this unit on Wildgoose but nobody commented on it. Anyone here familiar with it?
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I found a loose connection on R2 that caused the tacho to drop out intermittently, by association the regulator would fail also. Look at my detailed post about 9 back.
Roy
Roy, my problem has been intermittent periods of high voltage. (Very apparent at night in headlight and instrument lights). The condition is always accompanied by a neutral throttle miss or surge. (Generally accelerates and decelerates as normal). It may last for 15 seconds or 15 minutes and appears at random times and in all conditions.
I first posted the symptoms in 2007. As you can see, it isn't a huge problem but it has been darn annoying. Battery performance is fine, starts fine and when it isn't doing its thing, runs very well.
Thanks for your help!
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Here is what I've done to fit the 750 Breva Regulator.
New connectors to match harness on the V11. The two green wires from the regulator were spliced to an extension with a ring connector to attach to the engine block/ground. The two red/white wires from the regulator join together and connect to the green/red wire in the harness which connects to the positive side of the battery. The yellow wires from the regulator connect to the yellow wires from the alternator. The two wires in the bike harness that feed the charging light on the instrument panel have been taped over. The charging light is now inoperable. The Breva regulator is physically larger than the original and the mounting hole spacing is different. I welded an extension to the original bracket to reposition the regulator to allow for its larger size and narrower hole spacing.
This is the new regulator in place. I needed (2) slightly longer screws (+ 5mm) to fasten the regulator to the bracket. The ground wire you can see under the mounting bolt is required with the original regulator but isn't really needed with the Breva unit. It doesn't hurt to have it there and if I should ever go back to the original style regulator all I need to do is swap it out.
Now the only question remaining is does this cure my intermittent voltage issue?
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Just ran the V11 with the 750 Breva regulator. All appears to be well. Just under 13 volts at idle and just over 14 at 3000 or so RPM.
We'll see if it cures the long running intermittent voltage variations and engine miss issue.
I'll post some pictures tonight or tomorrow.
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I just put my regulator back this evening, same bike, same year but the regulator was just grounded to the frame, no wire back to the battery. I bolted a heavy ground cable to it and ran to an engine bolt. It seems to have made a difference but time will tell.
Funny thing for me is I had never noticed the ground wire running (as I assume, haven't traced it yet) back to the battery. It is shown in Carl's schematic but then I had not studied the schematic until yesterday. I also added a ground wire between the case of the regulator and the engine block. No change at all noticed which makes more sense since finding the other ground wire.
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Can you post pictures of the regulator connectors?
Are they identical ? Connectors and color and wiring placement,etc.
My first post has pictures of the connectors. The wires to the left are from the original regulator and the wires to the right are from the Breva. They are totally different but thanks to Roy you will see the conversion is not that complicated.
I'll try to document it as I go along.
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Once again Carl Allison saves the day
Here is his Breva Drawing
Note:
You will no longer have a Charging light.
Make sure you connect the two green to a solid ground point
The Two reds connect together and go back to the 30 Amp fuse
Just tape up the other connector on your bike.
I don't think this regulator requires grounding but bolt it down.
Two yellows as before to the alternator coil wires
Roy
Thank you Roy (and Carl)!
I should have thought about Carl's wiring diagrams but didn't. At any rate, it is very nice to have some solid input leading me down the right path.
It looks as though there is a dedicated ground wire that ran from the case of the original regulator (under a mounting bolt) back to the battery. Assuming that's what it is (I'll trace it back) I will use it to ground the new regulator. If not, I'll ground it to the engine block.
I'll report back after I get it all together.
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What does it look like in the regulator end, no clues? Is there any brand or part no. on it?
Hej Raz.
This is the Moto Guzzi factory regulator that is used on the 2004 750 Breva and others. New here in the USA they are about $140 which is much better than the almost $300 for the original regulator for the V11. I got mine from a wrecked 2004 Breva for less than $30 with shipping. (I was assured by the seller that it is fully functional. We shall see)!
Besides the slightly different wiring scheme it is slightly larger than the original and the mounting holes are on a different spacing. I will need to do a simple modification to the mounting bracket to make it fit.
I'll take photos as I go along and (assuming it all works) will post them when I have it done.
Here are the two regulators: (Breva regulator til venstra)
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Hi All.
I've suspected the voltage regulator on my '01 V11 is the source of an annoying intermittent voltage issue. I've detailed the syptoms in the past and no one has ever experienced exactly the same conditions or has come up with a solution beyond swaping out the regulator and see if that cures the problem. I've choked on doing that because of the cost of the replacement regulator but I have been told that the regulator from the 750 Breva can be used successfully on the V11 and I managed to get one at a reasonable cost.
So now the question is sorting out the differences in the wiring colors.
The original regulator has 3 pairs of wires coming from it, (2) yellow, (2)red and a white & black pair.
The Breva regulator has (2) yellow, (2) green and (2) red/white.
I'm hoping someone can help figure out which wire corresponds with which between the two regulators.
If I remember correctly, the yellows just go together without concern over polarity, as in either wire can connect together, doesn't matter which one goes where.
On the original regulator the two red wires tie together into a single connector and the black and white pair remain independent and go into a two prong connector.
On the Breva regulator the two green and two red/white wires remain independent but go into a four prong connector.
Obviously, I've got to sort out some new connectors but that isn't a problem.
TIA folks.
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Icelandic women are super fn hot tho, wish I was stranded on the island with them, well, as long as they don't talk because its also one of the ugliest languages
Rear drive seals
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Thanks docc, I did see that thread too. I'll go back through them all and see what it looks like. Still to cold here to do any actual work but time to get ready!
dh