dhansen
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Posts posted by dhansen
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Just a data point:
I pulled the rear of my V11 apart the other day. One of the rear u-joint crosses is stiff, but there's no play at the coupling. Solid as can be.
I greased the u-joints today Greg and both of them have one cross that offers a little more resistance to movement. Can't remember, have you come up with a solution to changing them out?
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"Bullet" bike???????????????
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Just a data point:
I pulled the rear of my V11 apart the other day. One of the rear u-joint crosses is stiff, but there's no play at the coupling. Solid as can be.
Maybe that is why the cross is stiff!
Since we are on the downhill side of the riding season here, I'm looking to put things back together rather than tear it apart any further. I think it would be a good winter project to look a little deeper and see what goes on inside the coupling.
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Ha! My first thought too!
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Not sure if ebay is an option for you, but there are always some listed there.
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These bolts should be torqued to 4 kgs. Even then you can still slide it off it's place when bevelbox uninstalled. I always wondered why they made it with 2 securing bolts?!
I've been riding like this for 13 years now. So, just to confirm ratchet, nothing to worry about.
Thanks JC!
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front wheel bearings are
6205-2RS
6304-2RS
Hello again
Ok I found it for a 2k V11 S but is it the same bearing for a Rosso Mandello?
// V!!
Good work V!!(!) And good question. As far as I know they are the same BUT I wouldn't dare swear to it. Some Rosso rider will be along soon to confirm that.
Hang in there.
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Can you post a pic ? Is the joint loose ?
Hey GS. The u-joint itself is tight. The movement I see is between the aft end of the u-joint and the input shaft from the bevel box The (poor) photo below shows one of the two allen bolts that when tight, pinch the back end of the joint onto the input shaft. Even though they are pretty 'honkin tight, they still don't lock the u-joint to the shaft. I suspect the input shaft has a clearance groove in it that allows the two allen bolts to pass through and in turn, lock the u-j in place on the shaft nut but still allow it to move a slight amount of movement. (The bevel box is off of the bike. Not sure you'd ever find this with it on the bike).
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Mine does that too, Dennis. It's just the U-joint sliding a little on the shaft splines. Not to worry.
Great, thanks Ratch.
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Hi All.
With the rear end of my V11 apart for tire and maintenance I've been checking things out. My latest discovery is some play in the connection between the rear u-joint and the input shaft on the bevel box. If I hold the box and push/pull on the driveshaft I can see the rear u-joint moving about .060 inches in and out on the shaft. (The input shaft does not move). The two allen bolts that should be clamping the u-joint to the shaft are very tight. I assume the two allen bolts straddle the shaft and effectively lock the two parts together........... even if there is some play.
Is this normal?
Dennis (Also posted on Wildgoose)
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Hey there V!!
Everything you want to know is here in the Technical Topics section of the forum. Just plug "wheel bearing" into the search engine and see what you get. If you still have questions or doubts after that, let us know.
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Wow, nice job. Did you use screws to attache the plywood to the 2x4? Looks like you had her pretty stable?
Bob
I was going to do that, or maybe epoxy it together, but it was so solid I decided to get to work on the tasks at hand. I did slide some blocking under the sump in case something drastic happens. I'll glue it up when I am done.
The Snap-on mid-rise table is rated to 6000 pounds so yes, it is a very solid platform to work on. I'll get a pick up later of the front wheel clamp and tie-downs.
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Finally got the Snap-on mid-rise car lift modified to hold my bikes. What a pleasure! Still needed some way to lift the rear end though. Being a builder of wood boats the quickest solution came from the cab of my truck and the kindling box...............
So, lots to do. New tire, rear pads, wheel bearings (brake side shot @12,000 mi)(spacer measures good), clean needle bearing, cush drive job and lube unis. Feels GREAT getting this done myself.
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I can't believe I could spend so many hours looking, mostly in Sheldon's EMU, and not finding it. Mac, I think you must have applied some of that new cloaking technology to hide it.
Good job!
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Yeah, I've had no luck either. I thought I'd at least be able to match the engine up with something on the 'net. The distinct lines and circle on the case would be easy to spot but nada........
Dennis.
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Ummmmmmm, I like the bar-end mirrors.
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I'm sure I could just dive in and figure this out as I go but I figured I might get a jump on things by asking..........
How high must the rear wheel be off the ground (or lift) to easily remove it? I remember seeing photos of someone suspending the rear of the bike from a tree with all kinds of air for clearance. Would typical centerstand or Guzzi shop stand height be enough?
TIA, Dennis.
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Entirely different but the color is the same! (That would be enough proof for my wife that they were the same machine
)
Nothing yet to link the two.
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Soooooooo close to having it. The photo is from Sheldon's EMU. Not much info on the 'net about the Italian mfg Negrini. Looks like they started building bikes in the early 50's with engines from other suppliers.
I'd still like to know who made the engine.
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Well, I found the engine! Unfortunately, the site contained no clues as to what it is. This picture was given as an example of a forged bike. It was being sold as a Moto Morini Corsarino but is bogus.
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On the upside, here is a better example of "Target Fixation" when it comes to keeping your eye on task at hand
!Ha!
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Picture attahced
I am soo stoked!
So, is that your driveway?
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No guess yet Jaap, but that avatar is gross!
Rear universal
in Technical Topics
Posted
Arrrggg............... just put it back together 15 minutes ago and I really didn't note which ones were tight. This is the first time I've had mine apart and I'm too busy making sure I get all the big details right
to think about the finer details. Sorry! Next time I promise to check it out and note which side is tight. I want to say I remember them being tight in the same cross but I just can't swear to it.
It feels SO GOOD to be digging into this machine and learning what it is all about PLUS gaining the peace of mind in knowing that everything is fresh and well lubed. New tire, wheel bearings and brake pads along with drilled and greased cush drive. Everything else lubed as required.
Dennis