Guzzi2Go

What are you suggesting luhbo? Is it that the phonic wheel may be screwed in at an "advanced" angle to the crank? From what I see this one is "nailed" to the cam and can be inserted in one way only. I also do not see what adjustment options are available for the phase sensor itself. The only options obvious to me to address this issue are electrical (TPS, ECU, PC, ...) BTW, mine pings at low rpms @WOT, never at >5000 rpm and it is all stock, even when running on 100 octane fuel. I tend to interpret this as inability to inject correct amount of fuel at these speeds, rather then inability to retard the spark. But then again, what do I know....

If there is no spark on both plugs I'd start with a phase sensor. You might need an oscilloskope though, and sensors datasheet. Either try working your way up from the phase sensor via ECU to the ignition coils, or the other way around. If it is phase sensor you should have neither sparks, nor should injectors work. If it is ignition coil driver in the ECU, then injectors should work, but no spark(s).

It's Ivanisevic

Not sure if it is hooters or videos...

Snake real - Forrmationsflug - Super Präzision, powered by eVisor.TV

Those who understand German should switch the sound off... VFR traded in for a BMW GS Arsenal vs Totehnam Hotspurs Superbowl

Yes it is downloadable. You can find a link to it in this article...

Well, if you apply 366Hz signal on its input and it turns 270 degrees then it is the same no matter what. And yes, it is vibration that kills it (at least killed mine). Measuring resistance of the meter coils should reveal if there is any breakage of the fine copper wires. According to the CS8190 PDF, the meters usually measure ~200 ohms. If you measure something in the whereabouts of infinity, then it is definitely the meter, not the electronics.

If the letters on the chip read CS8190, then yes. From what is visible on the pictures, the "air-core meter" is there, although it works up to ~90° angle, unlike Guzzi's, which is more like 270°. However, it does not seem to be a straightforward, 1:1 replacement. On the other hand, if the meter itself is broken and is impossible to solder back to life, measure the distance between the mounting holes and coil resistance. Chances are it will fit.

What's wrong on this one: Germany - European Football Championship 2008

From what I 've seen you'll have to cut the bike in half to get to it. The cylinder is conveniently placed on the back of the engine, neatly shielded from all sides. If you manage to get your fingers on it you are most likely suffering from a genetic defect or your ancestors come from somewhere in outer space. Remember, Luigi builds thinks according to the 1st Murphy's law of engineering - An engineer designs a product so it is difficult to manufacture and impossible to maintain.

11. Are you a piece of string? No, I am afraid not.

I had mine cut at a local shoe repair, key cutters shop. It cost me ~5EUR.

Aaah! Staplerfahrer Klaus. A classic!

Most likely a blunt instrument...

A je to. Compulsory "reading" for every Guzzi mechanic.

You should exchange the pair of factory provided El Cheapo rose joints for a pair of quality ones. Makes gear shifting easier.

Kevin Bloody Wilson

Anyone knows this one?

If you are familiar with digital electronics and own adequate tools, anything is an option. Worst case you need to build a frequency converter(using Cheap-o-matic microcontroller) and a driver (like voltage converter) to adapt the µC output to instrument's input. If not, it is going to turn pricey (new/used functioning instrument, breadboard, oscilloskope, lab power supply, decent soldering iron, PCB kit, ...)

It's WW #1 and a Brit and an Irishman sit in a trench. Explosions, sickness, dead bodies all over the place. The Brit gets fed up, climbs over the top, erects himself, salutes and says: "I came here to die!!" Irishman, from the bottom of the trench: "So what! I came here yesterday!"

It is not the speedo's case, but the dial plate!! Sorry for being unclear about it. The speedo's dial plate has two large rectangular holes in it, where the mileage/kilometer counters "protrude". That helps to "ventilate" the "upper chamber". The ring, not plate, is what you find between the instrument's glass and the dial plate. As said, its sole purpose is to evenly spread the light across the dial plate, which is made of solid aluminium (as in opaque). Its "unintended purpose" is to seal off the top half of the instrument.

I have a theory on that one. There is an acrylic glass ring between the dial plate and the glass and its purpose is to evenly distribute light coming from a bulb attached to the instrument's bottom across the dial plate. The side effect is that it creates a sealed chamber between the dial plate and the glass. Any moisture trapped in there is will condensate when instrument is lit (warm inside), and "splashed" with cold air (cold outside). Which is more or less always, as we all must ride with headlight on. The speedo does not exhibit the same problem, as it's dial plate features two large holes (odometers, are they? ), which allow for some air circulation between the "chambers". Drilling the tach body bellow the ring, won't help since the that will not "unseal" the "upper chamber". Drilling the tach body through the ring won't help since this one will be sealed by the rubber grommet holding the instrument in the panel. The only valid options (however, untested :!: ), are: A: drill through the glass (exposing the inner workings to rain, bugs and other things that rely on gravity to assume the state of minimum energy) B: drill through the dial plate (which may create a bright "hot spot", as the light from the bulb would now shine directly through).

Yes it will. I tried it out, and it did not work. Mailed the stuff back...

I guess in due time you will be able to smoke Fidel himself...