FalcoLion
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Posts posted by FalcoLion
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You don't need much at all. I just did a conversion the other way from naked to fairing. Where have you been before?
In any case there is no need for a different headlight. Headlight on LeMans and Ballabio are identical. I have a Ballabio instrument subframe braket, steering bar, instrument clsuster holder. Its extrmely simple. Couple of leasure hours of wrenching and you are done. -
I pulled out that little rubber grommet that is under the gas cap. It's been like that since last summer. No fumes that I have noticed and no tank suck.
If I crash and the tank falls upside down enough to spill gas out this hole, that would suck ( no pun intended) but if it comes to that, I'm going to have much bigger problems to deal with anyway
I pulled that plug out and what do you know no more tank problem. Thanks for suggestion
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Dan M and badmotogoozer excellent suggestion. Thank you.
I finally managed to get this sucker bled. WHat a major pain in a*s. In any case I would appreciate if someone can post a picture the brake and clutch lines of V11 Lemans, Nera or Rosso Corso as the connect to master cylinders. I think the bend in the line is different from Ballabio and Copa.
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FalcoLion, I've had the same idea too. I've seen this set of horns in Griots Garage catalog for a while now and thought they would look good on the Nero. They are also available here ($65.00), along with specs, etc: Hella horn
These draw 6 amps per the specs. The stock horns are 3" in diameter, these are nearly 4 7/8", so mounting them in the stock location probably would not happen. Maybe drawing half the amps a relay could be avoided.
You can try to mount them right inside of eash side fairing. Do a search on FIAMM Horns and you will see that someone did that already and it looks nice
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The V11 has unlike other Guzzis no relay installed for the signal horns.
So I would install one as the switch gear will not cope for a very long time with the 12 A a pair of these horns are pulling from the battery.
That what I thought after reading all the posts. Thankfully a lot of people here have excellent knowledge
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I am wondering if anyone is familiar with Stebel TM80 Magnum horns. Even though I got an additional relay sent out to me do I really need to install it. TM80 Magnums are supposed to be direct OEM replacement. These are not FIAMM but are Stebel.
If you click on TM80 Magnum then you can find tech specs right there. So electrical gurus could you please tell me if I need relay or not.
Thanks
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Thanks guys. All suggestions are good. I really doubt that I get a kink cause I am watching it. I even took the valve out now. The valve is gone now so theoreticaly there should be nothing to prevent the tank from breathing. I will check out everything.
Thanks
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Did you grind the internal end of the speed bleeder flat before installing it? If not was it difficult to get it to close? I did this and buggered my slave cylinder. If the level of your M/C drops as you pull clutch repeatedly there is a good chance the body of the slave cracked, and that is where your pressure loss may be. There is a little round ball bearing the original bleeder seats against that won't allow the speed bleeder to seat.
Compare the internal profile of the stock bleeder with the speed bleeder and you'll see what I mean. Grind the speed bleeder to match and it should work provided the slave isn't cracked.
Of course if you have already done this, ignore...
cheers
Dan M and badmotogoozer excellent suggestion. Thank you.
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Is the tank actually visibly shrinking, how do you KNOW its the dreaded suck?
Can you tell/see some difference when you have the bike running, and THEN crack the cap?
And when seated on my '04 with the cap flipped up, there is a hole in the 7:00 position with a 3/16" dia. (+/-) that LOOKS like a tank vent. I am too old to see the hole clearly up close, and when not fuzzy, it's too far away to SEE...and I cannot find it anywhere in my manual, perhaps that will help alittle...or start a new thread
Good luck, S.H.Yeah I see the hole. I really don't want to stink up my garage because the fumes will travel to my apartment. I actually will be replacing all hoses to see which one is glogged if any.
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Looking at all the suggestions I see that most of you think its an air bubble stuck in the system. I really doubt about it. The reason I doubt is because I have Speedy Valve installed which is a one way valve. It lets the air and fluid out but doesn't let air in. When you are bleeding brakes or clutch and pumping I would assume (correct me if I am wrong) that it should start moving the fluid and air out and build the pressure. Unfortunately its not the case. No matter what I do (short of gettin Mitty Vac) there is no pressure.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Vlad
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It's unlikely that it needs rebuilt.
Was the clutch working before you started this?
Is there still fluid in the reservoir ok?
Is the lever adjusted properly and pumping the reservoir ok?
1) Yes it work just fine before.
2) Lever was adjusted properly
3) Now I took the fluid out but when I was trying it had plenty of fluid. Right to Max line
The only thing that is different now is that I changed handlebars. That should not have created any problems
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Ok guys here is the problem. My bike is 2004 Ballabio so its safe to assume that its has fuel pump in the gas tank. I had an issue with this stupid problem last year. But since I haven't riden this bike much because I got it basically at the end of the season last year, I didn't bother with it to much. I followed John's Ryland3210 recommendations for placing tip over valve. I even check it by blowing thru it to make sure it wasn't clogged or anything like that. In any case my tank developed tank suck symptomps just by sitting (bike wasn't ran for a while). Today I have completely removed carbon canister from the bottom (used T-connector to connect all hoses) I also completely eliminated tip over valve by placing regular barb connector to connect two sides of the pipes. Basicaly all connectors are direct pass thru. I run the bike for 2-3 minutes and it developed horrible tank suck symptoms. It feels like tank is not getting any air. What should I do now?
This f*ing bike is pissing me off. It looks awesome especially after I have installed LeMans faring on it and installed ConvertiBars instead of original Ballabio bar. I want to ride it. It sounds awesome but I can't take it for the ride just yet.
PI know there are a lot of people who know a thing or two about these bikes so please chome in
Thanks
Vlad
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I have tried to bleed my clutch today but it looks like my clutch master cylinder gave up the ghost. I haved no idea why it would happen becuase the bike has barely 2300 miles on the clock. I have tried to bleed it but the clucth master cylinder behaved like it wasn't there. I had installed Speedy Bleeders (one way bleeder that doesn't allow air to com in) but by pressing the clutch nothing happened. I am sure you all know how the proper clucth feels. You get somewhat of a resistance. My master cylinder acts like there is something broken on the inside. No matter how I pushed on it it wouldn't build any pressure and would not bleed. For anyone thinks that I didn't opened bleeder valve I can say with 100% certainty that I did. Brake fluid was coming out under its own weight but wasn't pumped by Clutch MC.
So here are few questions.
1) Does anyone have any idea what it could be and how I should go about fixing this problesm.
2) Is there a Brembo rebuild kit for Clutch MC? If there is one does anyone know kits part number?
3) We all know that our bikes use same levers as older Ducaties. Would it be safe to assume that Clutch MC are same as well?
Any help will be appreciated.
I want to ride this f*ing bike but problems persist
Someone please help!!!
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It's not that difficult, really. Like gstallons said, shove a piece of hose that fits snugly on the end of the bleeder valve. I use a piece of clear aquarium airpump hose, coiled for one complete 360 degree loop and hold the loop with a wire tie, with one end being about 1 inch long and 12inches or so for the long end. It creates a trap for the fluid so you don't draw back any air, but if you don't ever let go of the clutch when the valve is cracked open, you won't ever anyway. I could keep my wrench on the fitting, and my hand on the clutch lever on my knees from the left side, and did it with the bike on the sidestand, no disassembly required (except the "pisscup" cap, of course).
Do it once a year, and brakes too, from the same new bottle, and keep the expensive master cylinders working a good long time. 
All of them are quite easy once you actually dig in, good luck S.H.Savehehenry,
Thank you for the tips. You are right. Its not that hard to get to the bleeder valve. Obviously it depends on hand size but in order to get perfect access I took off rear hugger and unbolted shocks remote regulator from the left. It allowed me to get in there with no problems whatsoever. I even swapped the regular OEM bleeder valve to speedy bleeder valve. Its a one way valve for anyone who is not familiar. It lets the fluid out but doesn't let air in.
Unfortunately that wasn't my problem. My f*ing clutch master cylinder crapped out. Last year it took me almost the whole summer to get this bike on the road after fixing the wheel and passing NYS salvage inspection (had to wait 2 months). So I only rode it 2-3 times. Now its another BS problem. In any case I will post in FAQ area all my problems and questions
Thanks
Vlad
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I am not very familiar with Guzzi yet though I have for a year I only rode it 3 times before the season ended. I need to bleed my clutch now. Can someone please tell me where is clutch pressure cylinder is located? Is it easily accessible from the right or left sides of the bike?
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Say Tom, I have crashed with my Le Mans and I have the 1/2 idea to transform the Le Mans in a Ballabio bike.
Do you have a full pic of your bike?
Its actually much simpler than what I am doing. You will need front bracket holder for headlight for Ballabio, dash/gauges from Ballabio and if you want to convert to the bar insead of clip-ons LSL bar risers which will look as good as stock if not better. Everything else pretty mcuh needs to come off.
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Does anyone have Ballabio and/or Scura parts fiche. I am looking for rubber grummets/spacers that go into an upper triple clamp where steering bar is incerted. One of mine is messed up so my bar sits crooked a little.
Any help will be apprciated
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Tom M,
Thank you very much for the pics. The picture of the screw put my mind at ease cause it looks like I got the right ones. I did figured out the way parts 10 & 11 mounted but stupid Guzzi had 2 right sides though one was labeled as left
. Also if anyone can be so kind and make picture of parts 12 and/13 that are mounted on the inside of a fairing closer to the engine I would really appreciate. I got both of these parts and the bags they are in are labeled correctly but the actual parts are duplicates (only good for one side). I just can't figure out if I got 2 lefts or 2 rights . I got the dash done. Re-inserting those little rubber plugs with dashboard lights is the biggest pain in the ass. I can say that re-inserting these bulbs is a nightmare because the bulbs kept popping out
. Question about rotating the bar. I did rotate the bar but then you would have to rotate controls downward. Right side was no problem but the left side has a hole and locating pin on the inside of a switch. What did you do with that pin and/or hole? Should I just elongate the hole with a drill so that I can turn the switch a little more?
Thank you for heads up on Buell mirrors
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I am in process of converting my Ballabio into LeMans. I got all the parts (almost all, forgot to order headlight spacers) and installation is more or less straightforward with the exception of few issues.
I know a few guys did the same conversion but I need to know how did you achieve clearance of Ballabio Bar with the fairing. As of now fairing is not on yet but main support is and it looks like I don't have any clearance. The bar hits upper ears of fairing support. What is the solution I should be looking for?
1) Do I rotate the bar toward the back and rotate levers/controls down?
2) Do I just get clip-ons? I would actually most likely go for ConvertiBars. Very nice piece of equipment. Another solution would be to get a set of Gilles Variobars. Since they only come in 53mm I would need to widen the hole to make 54mm. Anyone has suggestions on where to go to this and what it might cost?
3) Or there something else that can be done?
Another dilema I have is changing instrument cluster plate. Is there an easy solution of opening gauges so that they can be remounted in a new instrument plate?
Detailed pictures of faring and steering bar would be greatly appreciated from anyone that have already done this conversion. I also need a close-up of side pods air intakes from anyone that owns LeMans. I need to see the shape of the screw heads. It looks like my dealer sold me wrong screws though I might be wrong. Part number look right but physically they look wrong.
Also is there an aftermarket solution for LeMans mirrors or maybe anyone knows what can be crossfited from other brands?
Also if anyone that owns LeMans or anyone that did conversion can share a photo of how and where you route brake and clutch line I would highly appreciate that.
My email is VladpMisc at OptOnline.net
Any help will be much appreciated
Thanks
Vlad
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Wow. What a surprise. Looks like a lot of owners wanted valid high quality options for bar risers and when one is presented there are no takers.
Some bring up some BS discussion about re-using clip-ons from diffrent models or looking into unobtainable part but not at the available stuff. I am buffled but I guess its a Guzzi way. -
1. Rob Atkinson (for '04 Sport Naked)
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I seen these up close and personal and I really don't think they ruin anything. These clamps look very nice and high quality and the whole setup is very tiddy.
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As some of you might be interested in good Bar Risers I would like to offer you guys ConvertiBars. I always new they were good option but now I think they are an excellent choice. You might ask why such an upgrade of my qualification of these ConvertiBars and I have valid explanation.
Before this new ConvertiBars became available they were offered with set bar angles. In other words you were locked in into a specific bar angle during the purchase. You had to make up your mind and then you were stock with this bar angle. Now they have improved design that pretty much allows you a mutiangle adjustment in horizontal plane. As most of you aware (hopefully) this bars can go up as high as 3 inches (7.5 cm for Euro guys). That is a lot of adjustments.
Basically ConvertiBars have 2 oarts to them Base kit listed at $329.95 and enhanced Kit listed at $129.95. If anyone is up for a Group Buy I would need 10 takers
Base kit will be $299.95 and Enahced kit (brake and clutch lines) would be $115.95. No everyone will need enhanced kit based on your machine. ConvertiBars doesn't list Enahnced kit for Ballabio or Coppa but suggests it for LeMans.
So if you want to get on this group buy please add your name to the list
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Here a link to ConvertiBars video
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Hi. Just bought the engine from a crashed Ballabio. Could anyone tell me the differences between it and a V11 and Sport 1100. The pistons are definitely lighter than the Sport 1100 and i'm hoping i can put them in my racer. Are the heads the same on all three bikes?? Thanks in advance.
As far as I know all engines are same between all V11 (Sport, Scura, Ballabio, LeMans, Coppa). Its somewhat different from Sport 1100 as its considered to be an updated version. I am sure Guzzi experts will chime in with more details
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The purpose of the loop is to allow the valve to be attached such that the longer hose barb is pointing to the sky. The valve only permits flow from that end to the end connected to the tank in my picture, but it only permits flow if attached the way it is shown. Otherwise the internal check valve closes. If the valve is mounted with the longer end downward, it won't flow in either direction. Therefore the short hose which normally connects the tank to the valve has to be replaced with a longer one or lengthened.
I guess freaking Luigi had too much grapa while compiling a workshop manual. I guess everyone has to drink large amounts of wine to get to the state of mind to come up with such stupidity in engineering. Thank god we got people like John (Ryland3210) so they actually try and figure this annoyances
How to: Change the front fairing?
in How to...
Posted
Where have you been before when I was looking for fairing?
I carry some mirrors, and brake and clutch levers