docc

And the V11?

The specialty electronics store I bought the meter did not have a stabilized power supply and figured sending it to a repair facility would cost about what I paid for the meter (50 USD). It's stated accuracy for DC voltage is +/- 0.8% which is 0.11 volts at 14.2 vDC. So, assuming my meter has retained its stated accuracy, my charging voltage could be as low as 14.09. I think it is notable, though, that the regulator is set to 14.2 volts and the meter reads the same (at or above 2000 rpm).

+1. Not only the battery connections themselves but especially the main ground to the gearbox. Be sure it is clean of grime AND paint - use a "star" washer under the connector and seal over with petroleum jelly. Check that the 30 amp main fuse is not melted or the blades damaged.

Definitely an early warning light panel. The two center lights are (top to bottom): oil pressure and battery (charging). Those are worth investigating their absence. They do not light when the ignition is first turned on? (The "M" in the serial number designates it was built in Mandello as all the V11). Assessing how your clutch rattles most (engaged or disengaged) may give a clue to whether it is standard twin plate or Rosso Mandello single plate.

That is one tricked out V7! I pm'd you about those rear sets!

I would be remiss to retorque the heads now, after so many miles, unless I had removed them for the valves and guides. Hubert, Hylomar where? (Not on the head gasket!?)

And a proper Moggie, there, with Brooklands screens!

So, I see the #16 O-rings (one per head) and the #21 O-rings (4 per head). The #16 was the one I was thinking could give a drizzle like this (?) I suppose I'll do them all in my upcoming 100,000 mile refresh. You know, the one I think I ought to do regardless of whether it really needs it. . . . polish and balance the rods, balance the pistons , yadda-yadda . . . warum, warum, warum???

This is true, of course, yet the DE I installed is claimed to set for 14.2 volts. I will have my Triplett meter checked (Good advice, as always! ). I replaced it's internal 9v, but the voltage reading did not change. (My very cheap meter that I carry with me in the Tekno pannier reads 0.12 volts less - maybe it is the more accurate . . . )

"Sie mit es durcheinander, warum?" I was thinking of doing the heads, rear engine leak, clutch and flywheel all at 100,000 miles. If I can tolerate the oil leak that long. The clutch sounds like a Steampunk Drum Band.

That's the method I went with! Now to see how long it stays clean . . . I thought I remembered an O-ring or something for oil to rise to the rocker box. (Trying to delay that Big Teardown until 160.000 km . . .)

. . . torque the heads . . . ?

mznyc, thanks for the, er, encouragement . . . with the rear wheel off for a tire change, I found the right bearing a bit rough. After cleaning it out entirely, it was definitely 'notchy' and I replaced it. Looks like it was original to the bike (14 years/92,600 miles). As it turns out, the left side rear wheel bearing has been replaced a third time: first at ~14,000 miles, second after another ~35,000, and now after ~40,000. I would guess that the left side rear bearing is somehow under greater strain but I don't know why . . . maybe just more exposure to the spray and weather? Now, I'm trying to follow my own advice . . . while the rear wheel is off . . .

Right, headlamps on a separate circuit through a 10 amp circuit breaker with separate OMRON relays, hi and low, and grounded back to the frame. It charges at >14V as low as 2000 rpm. I still don't trust the system to run a 77 watt electric jacket under 4000 rpm . . .

I forget what this could mean:

I like this plan! My Sport needs another relay on top the four I've added. (I just do it to make Hubert nervous ) If, per chance, the red-black reference wire in the loom shows no significant voltage drop then this more direct reference system would unnecessary, correct? (My voltage drop is 0.09 V)

Right! So, besides grounding the RR case to the engine etc, etc, what about this idea of changing the source of the reference voltage?

I can say that the OEM set-up on the early V11 defeats the light when the 30 amp fuse opens; doesn't come on with the ignition switch and doesn't come on when the bike sputters to a stop. Later V11 (~2003-2004) apparently have no battery warning light. What's up with that? Did the regulator and wire routing change, too? (Maybe this part of the discussion belongs on the OEM Regulator Rectifier thread, I dunno . . .)

Those numbers are very, very close to the production numbers published in Ian Falloon's "The Moto Guzzi Story" by model, but with much more detail by year. How come we've never been able to get this for the V11 series?

It's right on the website in the description. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edlguz-voltrectoe.htm I don't see the V11 series listed for that application. This is the specific unit on my Sport EDL-450 from EME. I do see the Odyssey disclaimer there as well. And no detailed applications chart at all. Technical specifications do claim 14.2 Volt setting which is perfect for the AGM. I'll try to ignore their also listing the lithium "iron" as not recommended, but what is it about the AGM that would not be compatible with these regulators?

According to a period Cycle World (magazine) sidebar, there has been a "long running Italian hillclimb between Ballabio and Resinelli . . ." for which the bike is named. Ballabio is a place a few miles up into the "hills" behind Mandello del Lario. Bellagio is nearby, too - another Guzzi model name.

Haha, yeah: I resemble this remark: "Figured I could get a few rides in before looking at shaft/bearings,et all. Hope we all learn a thing or two from my good luck."

In the States, we have long considered 100,000 miles as being "high mileage." Much of this stems from the days when a car that had 100,000 miles was pretty much clapped-out needing every system completely rebuilt from drive-line to brakes to suspension. Cars seem to last a good bit longer than that now, but we still regard that nice, round 100k as a bench mark. But I wonder, what nice round number rings true for "high usage" on the metric scale?

I thought (hoped) I would try to bleed it again and that's when i found the bad wheel bearing. The wobbly wheel was pushing the pistons back into the caliper. Thinking back I can recall a tapping sensation at times through the left footpeg. I passed it off. Should have inspected closely instead!

Yeah, it's a sticker on the invoice. A separate sticker "strongly advises" the separate ground. Where did you see the disclaimer about the Odyssey (AGM) application?