docc

Hmm, mine pings less without the ethanol even with 89.

Steve, I believe they mount just like the early Sports: through to a threaded hole in the headlamp bolts and two brackets to the pinch bolt on the top triple clamp.

In all fairness, the tabs only broke off the Arai side plates after a few years. I abandoned using solvents (isopropyl alcohol) long ago in favor of a mild mixture of soap, water, and white vinegar. The alcohol tended to discolor the faceshield, yet the tabs only broke off the side plates attempting to remove them for a shield change or thorough cleaning. I understand Arai's policy has been that that they will not build a modular helmet.

So, still some question, then: what is a 2002 "Sport?" Has handlebars (not "clip-ons)? Headlight and instruments mounted to the frame (not the forks?) There are braces coming forward of the side plates to the lower rear of the engine? More smooth semi-gloss (or fuzzy, bubbly flat) black engine paint)? That would all make for a second generation frame and the 5.5" rear rim with a more "relaxed" steering geometry. Any of the good sport-touring tyres will serve well. Again, a lighter, quicker feel with the 170.

A 2002 Sport? That could be a 1999-2001 version with 4.5" rear rim delivered with 170/60-17 or the "next gen" with 5.5" and a 180 section. So many have discovered that dropping a section size for their rim width gives better handling, that tire size may be more important than the specific brand. That said, I do like the Angels.

After several Shoei and several Arai, I started using a Shoei Multi-tech last year. I really like the ability to flip it up to fuel, speak (listen), and generally get my kit around. I might ride just a short piece down the road with it up, but really don't feel so safe with my face out. It is more noisy than the Arai, and a very little heavier. But I got tired of the stupid side plates breaking on the Arai.

The needle I ended up with is made to pierce rubber seals with a sharp point. I ended up truncating the the shaft (cut it off) and deburred it, to then press the ball into the Zerk and pump in the grease (of your choice). Again, early Sport. No idea why they are so much less accessible than after 2001.

I mostly stay away fro the Harley guys cause I don't want to find out what "or something" means . . . I make an exception for Harley chicks, though. And gladly step up to help them get their ignition switches connected.

I like Tom's approach. In fact, many of the early tachs read high. In other words, if it says 1100, you're actually turning 800. Not good! That can be checked with an Axone or VDSTS.

As far as we have ever known, the White Power was fitted to the Sport 1100 and the 1100 Sport, but never to a V11 even though it appeared in sales literature and early press reports. I would think it would fit if you can find one, especially that of the later 1100 Sport ie which had identical side plates (pork chops).

I'm not sure my 2000 manual will be of help on this. I'll try to get it open later and have a look with a mind to those things that have changed between model years. When starting the shaft's pinch bolts, consider squeezing the collar so that the holes are aligned with the threads (with some kind of clamp or locking pliers). Otherwise, the chance of cross threading the collar GOES WAY UP. Then the collar is stripped, the shaft is ruined, and you're half-way to a bad day! The hollow, distant echo of the Voice of (bad) Experience . . .

The early V11 (1999-2001) also had a 4.5" rim and 170 section rear tire (many of us have switched to 160). But even with the wheel off, the front joint is a nightmare on the early V11. Apparently, more so than the later V11 with the "improved" frame changes.

The Vaseline/dielectric grease is to keep moisture/ air/corrosion off of the electrical connections. I guess you could use KY jelly, but I'm not sure about the cherry flavored stuff . . .

So, this is , somehow, why the front lubrication solutions may not work on the earlier frames? Something doesn't line up the same . . .

The Rosso Corsa is certainly the longer frame, but the Scura has the short unbraced frame, yes?

Manufacturers have been specifying thinner and thinner oils in recent years to reduce friction thereby increasing their fleet fuel consumption incrementally. This does not necessarily bode well for the long term owner. my

I've tried this every way known. The only confidence I've had is using a needle. And with that, cutting off the point.

I found this post on the '02, but there is another, more extensive, thread on the common concerns with the 2002. PS: I found this thread also worth reading: Guzzi common mods/ problems by JRT

Once you remove the rear caliper (don't hang it by the hose) and the rear wheel (mind the spacer between the wheel and the rear drive), continue to pull the axle bolt left while supporting the rear drive. It's heavy and awkward when it comes free, but then simply pull it rearward and the shaft will separate. Too much grease on those splines and it will trap air and not go back together! Pay attention to the alignment marks. If you don't see any, add them to put the shaft back in the same alignment. Good post by Guzzimeister on other things to check. Look also at Maintenance Checklist with the wheels off in FAQ. PS: Michael, here's a link to a post with a schematic showing the needle cage outboard right side of the rear drive (#30). Still looking for a picture . . . Ah, here: second picture down on this post in V11bevelbox, (Again!) by Pete Roper and his buddy Colin.

That is too cool. I hope we can get a final spec on the sending unit (my third Veglia speedometer doesn't figure to last forever). So, they could even imprint it with the appropriate flying eagle under the inscription: VAGUELIAr PORBETTI I've got this on my list of 'more things to do!'

Sean, Can you check the battery voltage out of the bike with a digital volt meter? I know you said its a new battery, but. . . Also, time to pull the ignition switch and have a look at the contacts for anything unseemly.

b'lee, The battery ground wire is bolted to the back of the gearbox above the drive shaft output. Good place to do a clean and lube while being sure the terminal stack on the battery is also clean and tight (most of the wiring harness earths back to the terminal stack). Yes, ground the regulator from its case back to the timing chest. Again, be sure to clean the surfaces (including paint) and apply some weather protection (dielectric grease, Vaseline, KY jelly . . . what ever is, er, 'handy' ). Also consider adding a ground from the frame to the engine. I used the same timing chest bolt as the regulator ground and went to the bracket for the fuel filter on the right side of the frame above the valve cover on my Sport. I did this since I've grounded my horn relays and headlamps back to the frame.

Speedhut printed "Moto Guzzi" on your gauge faces? Nice touch . . .

Hilarious! No wonder there might be "some confusion!" It all makes the electrical system on my V11 seem perfectly sensible and well thought out . . .

Haha! Jason and 2005 to the rescue!