docc

$11,900US. Oh, wait . . . that's what I paid for mine. Seems like 3500-4500 is a common range, but later special models like Coppas and Corsas are bringing 6500-9500. The early red frame, green Sport with low miles should bring a premium if it's all stock and unmolested. Mine's been molested, but since I molested it myself that doesn't bother me so much.

There is a shim which determines the pick up, but the sensor is sealed with an o-ring. Some smear a VERY thin layer os sealant on the shim, bu it should not be necessary with a good o-ring and might change the timing pick up.

Adjust the activating screw on the sidestand.

Could not find DeOxit by Caig locally. At the electronics supplier I found GC De-Ox-Id PArt # 19-1906-A. No silicone, but is it the same as Caig DeOxit?

The run circuit will get its current from two places. With the side stand up, it comes through the side stand switch. Sounds like yours is working ok. With the stand down, running current must come from the neutral switch which energizes the middle relay (called the "sidestand relay", it is not energized by the sidestand switch, but the neutral switch on the left side of the gearbox under the starter motor). Your trouble is likely the neutral switch, its connection, or the relay and /or its connections. First, locate the rubber boot under the starter with only one wire. Pull it back, slide off the blade connector, clean it, tighten it, Deoxit, and maybe apply a thin coating of waterproofing grease. It should slip back on the switch with some resistance. Retest your starting with the stand down in neutral. No joy? Carefully pull the middle relay straight up without twisting or wriggling (this could spread the connectors). Replace with a known good relay. OMRONs make me happy, but you could simply exchange it for another in the fuse block and retest. EDIT: Also check the adjustment for the sidestand switch. It is a simple carriage head bolt with a lock nut. Make sure it completely depresses the switch button in the down position, but no more and no less.

For a time, I thought copper anti-seize paste would serve both functions. gstallons suggested I test it for resistance. It has plenty of that! (zero conductivity).

Indeed, the crank position sensor will leak. There is a 0-ring that is easy to replace and is likely hardened and flattened. Mine continued to leak from the wire attachment and fixed with epoxy. ( Oil leak thread ) As noted, there should be two fasteners holding this sensor down. Otherwise, the mechanical pressure sensor is not factory and, while factory devices come with their own caveats, it has several junctions prone to leaking. It is, after all, under pressure and the crank sensor is not.

Looks like Motorcycle Superstore has both the 170 and the 160 "in stock" in the Pirelli Angel ST and the 160 "available" in the GT. When the Angel ST came out, I found it gave me the exact same mileages as the Diablo Strada before it . I'm on my 23rd rear tire: nine Pirellis as well as Dunlop, Bridgestone, Michelin, and Metzler. I would say they have not all been the same.

So, what does the bike actually do? Not start, stall, not restart, stumble, whiffle through the tulgey wood, burble as it comes?

I thought where you are in NL, not Holland, but . . . NL. I'll have to re-watch the educational video and take notes.

Fabulous! Well done on the progress. Hard part's done, yeah?

WHAT? The Guzzi Shop Manual - "sketchy?!"

Absolutely great advice here: Service the linkage, bleed the clutch fluid, and change the gearbox oil BEFORE you take the gearbox apart or change its adjustments. (OH! make sure the foot lever is not hitting the "pork chop" frame side plate on the up stroke. That hasn't been mentioned lately.)

What does it look like for the 160?

Sitting in traffic heats the gearbox as heat rises from the exhaust cross over. Some have found using RedLine ShockProof gear oil to be helpful. And no dis-assembly required!

My first thought when I read it was: apparently lack of practice HA - yeah, I couldn't figure out that one bolt.

Ha- I never worried about it until I took my tank off a couple years ago and couldn't get it back on . . .

And there it is on one of the spokes, left side: "mt4.50x17dot e." Learn something here everyday! Otherwise, pulling a tape across shows an outside measurement at the corner of the rim of about 5". I suspect the 5.5 would look about 6" at the outside edges.

g'ohc: Not sure which finish is on yours. If you don't mind, go to your profile and add the year to your V11. (For that matter, I wouldn't mind also seeing the year on your VFR!

Roy, How could those paths be verified?

Checking the battery voltage with a digital meter would be helpful. Otherwise, turn the bars fully left and right thumbing the starter. If it bumps, there is a connection problem with the clutch switch wiring.

Good advice there from Gene on the best lube. And yes, when the rotors can "center up" there is less judder. It's one of the sources of what many would say are "warped rotors." The other two are sticking caliper pistons and uneven impregnation of pad material onto the discs.

Best regards to a fine fellow!

Nice comparison here of the difference in the Red Frame Sport Stucchi and the screen on the Rosso Mandello (was that made by Givi of carbon fiber?) I don't think I've ever actually seen a Scura. Not that I'm afraid of the dark . . .

The rear disc does not float, the rear caliper slides on a pin which should be kept clean. Some say lube it lightly (I use a thin coat of waterproof grease), others (BMW owner's manual for the 325i auto) say no lube on the pins. The front rotors are "semi-floating" so there isn't any play in the buttons (sometimes called spindles). The rotor will shift on them under force which is why I use the rubber mallet to bump it around a bit. Using a spray solvent will help get the gunk out. I've used a little BreakFree CLP on each in the past, but even the slightest amount will try to sling out onto the braking surface. Very much of that and you're half way to a bad day!