docc

Ken, you're in luck as that is a common problem with an easy fix. You probably don't need a wiring harness and even if you did, it could have the same problem. Under the tank on the left side of the frame just behind the steering head are two bullet connectors that harness the clutch switch. The starter will not engage unless the clutch is disengaged. Those connectors are notorious for corroding and loosening up. Once accessed, clean them (Caig De-oxit is amazing), tighten them, and seal them either with some dielectric grease (or Vaseline) or heat shrink tubing (I use both). Make sure the clutch micro switch is clean and makes an audible little *click* when the lever is pulled. Keep us posted!

I think it is excellent and very extraordinary that a gear would be made for the problem. Amazing, really!

With Dave's bike showing up all over ebay, it sure makes me glad he's ok. (Glad you're ok, Dave!) Sad indeed to see such a nice V11 broken up. It was such a special bike in so many ways.

I believe that is correct. The Rosso Mandello was the only other model in those years (2001), but is only different in the body parts and paint finishes AFAIK. The wiring should work for you, but I see the relays are sold separately. I do suppose both the electrical harness and the ignition harness are included, but not the coils and plug wires (separated). It seems there are various other connections and components separated. I noticed the sidestand wiring separate. Worth scrolling through the sellers other postings to see what might have been separated.

That wasn't a bad description at all. I've never noticed the change in the tail section, apparently also in '02. It must have a different part number. My 2000 compartment has a soft vinyl fabric liner which encloses the compartment, so I've not ever noticed pieces could escape into the hollow. Learn something here everyday! EDIT: The only part number I have is the 2002 tail: 01 57 31 60. The Stein-Dinse diagrams show that the 99-01 tail differs, but I can't seem to bring up a part number for it or the bag-like insert.

Not sure why the factory flipped it over (in '02, yeah?). Certainly some early seats ('99-'01) smashed down on the connector wiring. What do you mean by the "more shell like tail section?"

That was cruel. I had to make an extra pot of coffee to keep looking. (Dave's 2000 harness is correct for the 2001. Unfortunate that someone is breaking it that doesn't know anything about it. For example, you can bid on half of a drive shaft )

Mine was . . .

Same here at 41,000 miles. Sheesh - I should probably check mine again! Thanks for heads-up!

Some US Sports came with the CO factory set as low as -27. Andy set mine to 0 (I think he was using VDSTS, and while the exhaust analyzer was attached, we just set to 0) Talk about a difference one setting can make!

The factory snorkels do face down toward the cylinders. I have always held the opinion they were exclusively to damp noise for emissions drive-by testing and have always run without them. I could be all wrong about that, yet do like the full frontal area of the air box intakes without the restrictors.

My V11 Sport once had a twelve speed, but that's counting all the extra neutrals . . .

Dude - you have a Norge, a Ballabio, TWO Centauro, two Calis, AND an Eldo? :notworthy:

The "world spec" is likely in mm, but I've never set valves in metric. I think that might be 0,15mm/0,20mm.

As I recall, 0.006" intake/ 0.008" exhaust. YRMV (Your Recollection Might Vary)

Having just fitted my 25th rear tire, it's always fun to try and impress admirers of the Sport telling them it has almost 85,000 miles on it. But the real hero: andy york's '02 LeMans with it's original speedo:

I only mentioned the "energy conserving oils" after paying heed to Pete Roper's comments about those effects on the cylinder surface. (Sorry about paraphrasing my impression here). As I recall, oils in viscosity at or over 15w-40 will not be "energy conserving." Certainly not the 20w-50 stuff. Oil IS important - especially keeping it changed and keeping it topped up. Don't let your oil level get low!

I decided to pin this, at least for now. It might move, later, to "How To." The TPS is a key interface with the V11 state of tune and this is an excellent way to access, especially for the later models with the ECU connector facing down. Thanks danl !

I think you should put some miles on it and come to the Ninth South'n Spine Raid just over the mountains in Tennessee! Between now and September you should be able to get her all sorted so it's less likely we'd be putting tools to her in the parking garage. Although, that's an option, too!

Yes. There are many good ones. "V-twin" oils are usually SG (high zinc and phosphorus); avoid "energy conserving" oils.

Here is a brief tutorial on Crabbing the Spine Frame. It can be done! Measure your swingarm offset BEFORE you remove the pins. (don't ask me how I know . . .

Love the last line in the article; could be Moto Guzzi's tag line: "Stay Tuned . . ."

Great price for an RC!

xroads, Not to take anything away from the guys who have had good results from the PC, and now the excellent work Paul has given us, but there are those among us who have had very good results with the V11's factory tuning parameters. For me, it took a few "tune-ups" to get the results. If you can dope F-class you can tune your Guzzi. Once you've mastered the factory settings and you are still not satisfied, there are these other options which many here will continue to help with. (ie: when you're not grouping, the answer is probably not changing optics.)

HA, zman, I'll bet that cafe sport sounds pretty good on the acoustics of that hardwood floor!