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Hoggbert, What a very nice V11! The hard luggage is super and will help you to ride more and further. If you love your Commando, this Guzzi should be wonderful for you. All of the good motor feeling with longer legs and (hopefully) much better reliability. You should expect to do a little tuning and fiddling to get it just the way you want. Certainly a proper tune-up with careful throttle body balance smooths out much of the vibration. I found that bar-end mirrors in place of the stock (stalk?) mirrors helped my Sport. Consider adding the more open silencers before the tune-up - you will love the way they wake up the sound and feel of the motor! From the details of your V11 Sport, I would think it is year model early 2000, or perhaps even 1999. I say this because of the color, the look of the reddish frame side plates, and the finning of the exhaust flanges (only used very early). You can confirm the actual model year by the 10th character in the VIN: X=1999; Y=2000; 1=2001; 2=2002; 3=2003. Fantastic motorcycle! Keep sharing your experience!

I do like the retro. Looks like a beer thread over on "Silly Banter" could get quite lively. At least late at night after the valves are adjusted and the V11 is wiped down.

So, Ken, any joy getting it sorted?

The air screws really shouldn't affect the mixture materially past idle. Idle is what they are all about. Try the full turn, you can always put it back. Repeating the full Tune-Up would be good medicine at this point. Every time you do it, the parameters get closer and closer. Once upon a time, my Sport haunted me with the Nasty Hiccup. That's a link to the last post in a year long thread that I found a handful of "contributors." I recall removing the air bleed screws and cleaning them along with the holes they fit in. Not sure how hot it gets where you are in the USA, but two things have made a big difference for me: fuel without ethanol and the low mass engine temperature sensor holder. EDIT: Oh yeah, when Andy York zeroed my CO in the ECU: major difference in idle stability. My V11 was delivered with the CO at - (minus) 27.

12 month report on the rear drive seals, 3300 miles (5000 km). All is well after adjusting the oil level downward slightly. It had continued to mist around the vent a bit otherwise. Once again, many thanks to Andy York for the expert assistance solving one of the biggest annoyances my Sport has presented. 85,000 miles/ 137.000 km now.

Open your air screws - can't hurt. If you don't like it, put 'em back. One synch method calls to synch the throttle bodies at over 2,000 rpm ("off idle") and use the air screws to balance at idle. What are using for air filter? How old are the plugs?

Ipothesys.it And there is this brief blog: ReturnoftheCafeRacers.com

I don't drink-and-ride, but I do ride. And I drink. The logo looks fun to me as long as whomever it belonged to originally doesn't get their lawyers in a knot. An alternate logo for respectable types would be a good idea. Something tasteful. Black and red is always good for that!

Congratulations on a good ride! So, how many bikes, what kind of miles for the day?

You're in the right place! She's only going to get better and better. And that Gianelli exhaust sounds great!

I can run, but I can't hide: I AM the bone fide authority on leaking rear drives. I have diligently sought out every known method to make one leak. You just can't argue with two years of successful leaking. Andy, The P'ffesser His-Own-Self, will always be the last word on making The Bad Leak stop. Check out the thread and update in Technical Topics "Rear Drive Seal"

Good advice on the "gentle" valve lash and rebalance the throttle bodies. I have always found more stable idle in hot ambient temperatures with the air bleed screws at one full turn. I know that would be theoretically leaner, but I've tried them everywhere and always end up back at one full turn. Those are the simplest things worth trying. There is a mod to the head temp sensor that is somewhat controversial, but worked for my Sport in the 90-95˚F (40˚C) temps here in the sunny/muggy USA south.

After fighting rear drive leaks for two years, I have grown unafraid to let my oil level down a little. The V11 Bevel drive has 100 ml more capacity than the earlier drives.

Looking forward to those pics! Welcome to the forum! Tell us more about your Sport.

Have you tried turning the bars lock to lock while pulling in the clutch lever and pressing the starter button?

Dan is unbeatable. A real stand-up guy. His relays are GEI. I think I got the OMRONs from MotraTech.

Biggest problem could be that it doesn't have enough miles, so you'll have to get to work on that right away! Give her a good tune-up, keep your engine oil topped up, wear tires out. (Just a gentle correction on the bullet connectors under the left side of the tank: they are for the clutch switch and may keep the starter from engaging if loose or corroded)

Camn, yes the Headlight Relay gets its current from the normally open position of the (middle) Starter Relay. And, as you say, not just the tach, but headlight, horn, stop light, warning lights, and charging reference. I wonder if the tach is the most sensitive to low or fluctuating voltage and may show a problem before the lights go out (?) Gusse, the Bosch I have (from PyroDan Pruneske) are 0 332 207 307. I am not sure the difference between them but good if they are all 5 pin so they can be switched around if needed.

The tachometer gets its feed through the Headlight Relay (#2) second from the front. Fitting a new Bosch, or switching to OMRON, may solve the problem. Be certain the base connectors are tight.

Apparently, the 2005-2006 Scura R was the last of the V11. There may have been some Coppa Italia in both 2004 and 2005. Pity we don't have all the production numbers . . .

That's a good idea!

Hi, big j: (edit): Thanks for the reply below. I gather you''re fettling a Griso. They look like a ripping good time! If get a minute, update "My bikes" in your profile. (You still have the V11 back in Ireland?)

Mitch, I'm thinking the 2002 LeMans had a pair of clip-ons for "handlebars." Do you need all the switch gear as well? I recall there's breaker in UK that has handled a lot of Guzzi in the past. Some of our UK members will chime in and help you find it. Welcome to the forum! Keep us posted on your progress and questions!

Alloy seat hump, too?

Nice Sport!! looks like all alloy body parts (?)