docc

I don't know if the clutch cylinder is the same internally as the V11, but I've had the internal spring break into pieces a couple times. There was excessive lever play and the engagement range was affected ... The last time I found it like this: First time, along with rebuild kit:

Thanks for the shout-out to let us know. I hope the new owner finds us. There is no V11 ownership requirement to pop in and enjoy the community, @thumper!

If it were a Ballabio, there will be original headlight/instrument brackets that would mount to the frame instead of the forks. Also, handlebars (not "clip-ons") . . . .

Looks like a pure and true "Sport" rather than a converted Ballabio. If it is, indeed a converted Ballabio, it is very nicely done! Looks like a great score! Love the high mount Titanium canisters!

Gorgeous Sport, @105Gunner! That has a lot of cool things going on!

Do you have a digital volt meter?

Hi, Dell! What is the make/model/age of the battery? What relays are in it?

@Gmc28, I hope my effort to help set up your thread came out okay. Sometimes that be messy. I did try to add back your second photo, but not sure that came through.... Looking forward to your V700's progress!

I hope those last posts are valuable for reference. (FWIW, with KOEO, I unplugged the oil pressure switch and the oil light went out, but the battery light stayed on.)

I love how that photo matches the cartoon in your signature!

IIRC, @Pressureangle investigated this in his Red Frame on Deck thread . . .

A Porsche in a Ghia's clothing . . .

At "idle", about 1100 rpm (no battery light) : About 2000-2500 rpm (no battery light) :

Static battery voltage = 12.80 KOEO: left DMM: red/black-->black "Reference Voltage" / right DMM: "blue" --> white "warning light" wire [ dash battery warning light illuminated }

Perhaps more than two faults. I am trying to fashion a way to see voltages at the regulator reference connector at various states (KOEO, idle, +rpm) . . . I am staged to partially insert the connector, attach two separate DMM to the exposed, but inserted, legs and see what those reference and warning light voltages do . . . The set up:

Blue wire to ground, I get 34.6Ω. edit: with the oil switch unplugged, I get open circuit "1" from blue wire to ground. Another indication your oil switch is faulty, but not a clue on the charging issue(s). Oil switch post to ground, I get 1.6Ω. This makes me think your oil pressure switch is faulty and the lack of oil light, KOEO, is not related to the charging issue(s).

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch. If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

Dang. So, the oil light is getting power, since it will light when the wire is grounded and the switch looks closed (no resistance from the switch post to ground), but no light . . . Did you completely remove the wire connector to the switch and test the resistance to ground with the switch post bare?

I found my switch post corroded, as well (in spite of my added rubber boot). Did your cleaning that connection allow the oil light to illuminate. now, KOEO?

More pics of it in its natural habitat!

This looks, to me, like the switch "works" (at least it is closed when there is no oil pressure). Did you say the oil light came on when you grounded that wire while the key was on?

Sport-Norge!

Closure? In that case, congratulations, @fastaussie!