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audiomick last won the day on June 5

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About audiomick

  • Birthday 11/11/1963

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    V35 Imola, 2002 V11 Le Mans

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  1. Leave it here. The thread is running a bit like a conversation in front of "the Garage" over a quiet beer. Given that the topic has roved from Quotas over V11 und back to Quota, I reckon it is a bit more general even than the "Older Models" section.
  2. Tenere presente che la batteria viene montata ruotata di 90° rispetto all'orientamento della batteria originale. Il precedente proprietario ha apportato alcune modifiche "creative" per far arrivare i cavi ai terminali.
  3. Salve, sembra di sì, ma finora non ho guidato la moto per più di 250 km circa. Ci sono un paio di altri problemi che sto esaminando. Tuttavia, si è avviata senza problemi dalla batteria anche se non è stata guidata per diverse settimane. Questo testo è stato tradotto dall'inglese utilizzando DeepL.com
  4. The only thing with that is, whether a radiator hose is oil resistant. On the weekend I finally met my good source of information in person. I spoke with him about exactly that hose. His advice was to buy the expensive one from Wendel https://wendelmotorraeder.de/oelschlauch-entlueftung-dick_gu30157400-p-1009234.html?ref=expl in his opinion, it should last a while. The equivalent from Stein Dinse is probably this Sorry, can't post that link. Stein Dinse appears to be updating their site, and I can't access it.
  5. Regarding KiwiRoy's advice: a resistor in parallel to the LED will do the job as well. Just don't ask me what the resistance needs to be. It should be possible to calculate the value on the basis of the wattage of the bulb and the 12V nomimal voltage. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistance_and_conductance
  6. In case it is of any use, here is what Bernd wrote on the german forum: The result of a DeepL translation (slightly improved by me): Info regarding Mac OS X Unzip the ZIP file somewhere and start the app. That should be it. Since I'm not a Mac user, I can't say much more about it. I've reached a point where the programmes run without the Finder crashing. The connections are established and the values can be read from GuzziDiag. The software up- and download for the 15x also works. Nevertheless, I haven't reached 100% yet, but I'm working on it. New unpleasant information about the Mac: In another forum, a user took a closer look at the Apple version and newer OS X versions. He discovered that since OS 10.8 Apple uses its own USB drivers for the FTDI chip, so the original ones won't work anymore. (I can't quite understand this, because in my emulator it works under 10.8 and 10.9). But as a solution he uses a small program with which you can deactivate the Apple driver. http://www.enttec.com/support-center/kb/article/108-OS_X_Mavericks_(10.9)_-_IMPORTANT Edit: the link leads to somewher that doesn't look useful. See the EDIT at the end of this post. The program has to be running while using GuzziDiag and the Apple driver has to be deactivated, then there are no problems. (I assume, if you have installed the FTDI drivers before). Unfortunately, I'm on very thin ice here and can't say anything positive or negative about it. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) To put it all into perspective: Bernd doesn't own a Mac, so his testing possibilities are a bit limited. On top of that, he doesn't even own a Guzzi for which Guzzidiag is applicable. His Guzzi is a Le Mans 850. Given that, all credit to the man that the programme even exists. EDIT: the link in Bernd's text leads to an australian manufacturer of LED lighting systems. The relevance is, they us DMX (common lighting control system. Look it up if you're curious) to control their systems, and reading their site indicates that the interface they use has an FDTi chip. I think, but am not sure, that the article that the link was supposed to lead to was probably this: https://support.enttec.com/support/solutions/articles/101000396106-macos-software-not-recognizing-dmx-usb-pro reading that and extrapolating might help solve problems, I think. Perhaps. I'm going to send that to Bernd, because the link in his text in the german forum is not that useful. If he responds with anything positive, I'll pass it on. ANOTHER EDIT: the post in which that text was found was last edited in May, 2022.
  7. I don't know enough about the circuit or the sensor to guess, but could it be that it needs the resistance of a conventional light globe to work properly?
  8. We're talking about the screws in the holes in the intake manifold where the vacuum gauges get connected to syncronise the throttle bodies, right? At that position on various motorcycles I have only ever seen an aluminium sealing washer. That's what I would put in there. Edit: no, wait. I changed those on my V35 Imola a couple of months ago. The originals were aluminium. The workshop gave me copper washers instead, because that is what the had in stock. They also work fine. The point is, it needs to be a sealing washer, not just a plain steel one.
  9. Makes perfect sense from a marketing point of view: the manufacturer makes more profit by only selling the plug complete.
  10. Yes. They started there, tried this way and that, and ended up back at -20. The important bit is, I reckon, the "this way and that", i.e. not just set to any particular value, but starting at a value that is known to be fairly good, and varying one way and then the other to find the best value. What they were observing, as mentioned, was the throttle response coming off idle. The process seemed to me to be analagous to setting the mixture screws on a carb: set them to the value in the Workshop Manual, then screw them in and out to find the best setting, in the case of the carbs the best idle.
  11. Glad you got it all sorted in the end.
  12. It was basically just a "decent tune up". Karsten (yellow t-shirt and overalls) did all the tinkering, Bernd checked what Guzzidiag can check. They set the TPS (goal was 160 mV, it ended up at about 158), balanced the throttle bodies, set the CO trim. For the CO, they started at -20 and varied back and forwards in steps of 10 to see how it reacted. The focus was on just off closed throttle, i.e. how snappy it was when the throttle was opened from idle. The final setting was -20. Yeah, it does look like that. That is Peter, the bloke who owns the Daytona side car rig. I only met him about an hour before that photo. His Daytona got looked at too. Karsten used to have a Centauro, so he knows that motor pretty well.
  13. No, I'm afraid not. It is a Le Mans 850, if I remember correctly. I didn't look at it very closely, but it looked very trick. There was also a Daytona sidecar there. I think it is a shame to bolt a side car on a Daytona, but it was very well done. The owner bought it that way, and he loves it. I think there were about half a dozen side cars there in total. There were two V100 Mandello S there, both green. One of them belongs to one of the forum admininstrators. There are about 13 in the forum now, at least last time I looked. Maybe more now. Those who have them are all very pleased with them.
  14. So the sockets for the relays are single units that are attached to each other, are they? I had assumed that it was a block. Are the sockets (bases) hard to get? I would imagine it is a standard part, but a quick search at Wendel didn't yield a part number.
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