audiomick
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About audiomick
- Birthday 11/11/1963
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Location
Leipzig
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My bike(s)
V35 Imola, 2002 V11 Le Mans
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That does exist, for instance these ones from Silent Hektik https://www.silent-hektik.de/Zub_Kabel.htm but in the case of the NGK plugs in the link, I'm fairly sure that is not the case. When you are ready to attempt the change, pull the boot back on the cable side of the plug, and try and screw them off. Given that they are going to be changed anyway, there is no great risk in that. The advantage is then, that you know for sure how they are put together. Having said that, cutting the leads back a bit (assuming you don't change them...) to give the new caps a fresh end to join to is probably a good idea.
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Then maybe one or the other of these. Looks like the same thing to me, just red or black. The inscript "5K Ohm" is visible on the picture of the black one. https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkerzenstecker-NGK-LB05F-R-rot https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkerzenstecker-NGK-LB05E Edit: a closer look reveals that Mike apparently perpetrated a typo in the listing. The red one is listed as "LB05F-R", and the black one as "LB05E". In the text body, however, they are referred to as "LB05F-R" and "LB05F" respectively. A look at what appears to be the NGK site turns up these, which are apparently the items in question, and both are 5K Ohm caps. As already mentioned, seemingly the same, except for the colour. https://www.ngkntk.com/de/produktfinder/motorrad/zuendstecker/lb05f-r/ https://www.ngkntk.com/de/produktfinder/motorrad/zuendstecker/lb05f/
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I haven't tried it on a bike, but going by my experience with the car I have, I reckon I would prefer electronic to something mechanical. Good, I haven't tried any mechanical systems either... The thing is, the electronic cruise control in the car gets more useful if you practise using it, and use it conciously. I dare say, the usefulness of a system on a bike would be similar. What I see as positive in the electronic system is that you only have to tip lightly on the brakes, and it turns off. I can't visualise a mechanical system that is so easy to disengage. Apart from that, I tend to use the "don't go faster than xxx" function much more than the "hold speed xxx" function. The latter actually almost never. I could see myself using the former on a bike, if I had it. The latter probably not.
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Come on you blokes, we're talking about breather hoses here.
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I had a bit of a look. First of all, I would tend to just replace both plug leads and caps. They are old, they age, and they don't get better with age. I went looking at Stein-dinse, Wendel in Berlin, and HMB Moto (kennst Du den schon?). Wendel and SD both have plug leads, but list the original cags as no longer available. Mike at HMB has leads and caps. The leads are cheaper than those at the other two. If I remember rightly, the caps are just screwed on to the leads. Anyone here who knows better, please correct me. The other end of the lead, which has an odd looking sheet brass fitting on it, is just plugged in to the coil. So changing the whole business is no great drama. Here are the parts at HMB: https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkabel-V11 https://hmb-moto.de/Zuendkerzenstecker-Gummi-rot not "dirt cheap" perhaps, but I think once every 20 years or so is probably affordable. Schöne Grüße aus Leipzig.
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"Stromdieb" here, and yes, I think you are right.
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That is the point, I think. My GTR 1000 has a pump-up pre-load adjustment. Easy enough to get to behind the right-hand sidecover. If one has one of those little pumps to hand that are used for such purposes, also easy to adjust. I barely ride the bike, now, but in the past I regularly changed the pre-load. The bike was used to travel to jobs several hundred kilometres away, often via the Autobahn, with fully loaded luggage. On other occasions, a friend of ours was regularly on the back seat for trips of several hours. When I was on my own for a short ride in the country, there was generally practically nothing in the luggage. I now don't do the long trips anymore, as my work situation has changed, and the friend has back problems, so she isn't up for motorcycling so much. If at all, it will likely be the Breva 750 now. She wont get on the V11 again after trying it out once. The GTR will be moving along to a new owner in the forseable future, because without the long trips I don't really have an excuse for owning it. Anyway, in the light of past experience I can easily see the point of a remote pre-load adjuster. If the adjustment is easy to get to, there are circumstances under which one uses it, and it helps. @orangem2 why not just ask the workshop you are intending to send the shock to if there is a remote adjuster available? If there isn't, I gather Wilbers have something available. Quite expensive, but I have only heard good things about them. This would be the shock, I think https://www.wilbers.de/shop/Motorrad/Moto-Guzzi/V11-Ballabio-KT/Federbein-Typ-641-Competition.html?year=2004 that is without the optional hydraulic pre-load adjuster. To see the price with that, select "hydraulisch (Wilbers-PA)" from the drop-down under "Federvorspannung". The optional adjuster is this one, I think https://www.wilbers.de/produkte/federbeinprodukte/optionen-zubehoer/hyd-federvorspannung/hydraulische-federvorspannung-typ-625.html On the other hand, Öhlins is pretty chic....
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I think it is a fine thread for a very good reason. Confirmation, for instance, here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread#Coarse_versus_fine or here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread#Preferred_sizes
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Well, that explains everything, I reckon.
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The relationships between Volkswagen and Porsche are incestuous enough that a Porsche would no doubt be as easily possible as an Audi. What brand they actually get offered has probably as much to do with what the Volkswagen concern wants to advertise as anything else.
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Should you indeed discover loose magnets, the casings are available as a spare part. These three were among the first 6 or 8 hits for a search for "valeo starter motor housing". I'm sure you could find a supplier in the US. https://www.motoren-israel.com/Shop/Engine-electrics/Starter-motor/Magnet-housing-for-Valeo-starter-4V-Boxer::148.html?language=en https://www.bayermotor.de/en/product?info=6285&country_preselect_country=AU https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/d6ra-magccw.htm Valeo revised the starters at some point, and added clips in addition to the glue to hold the magnets in place. If yours has clips on or between the magnets, it is the newer version and wont have the problem with loose magnets. If there are no clips in there, the problem with loose magnets may well rear its ugly head, even if that is indeed not your current problem. When you have the thing apart, it may well be worth considering upgrading the housing to the newer version with the clips, if it isn't already a new one. EDIT: for what it is worth, the starter in my 2002 Le Mans has the clips in it. On the other hand, the bike has more than 65,000 km on the clock, and the starter looked brand new inside when I opened it. Maybe it has been replaced at some point.
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An addendum to the previous post: It occurred to me that I also pondered about the solenoid a bit. The first part of its action is to mechanically slide the drive gear forwards to engage it with the flywheel. The second part, at the end of its stroke, is to close the contact to provide electricity to activate the motor itself. I remember wondering it that was just a contact, or a switch. It is a switch. If I remember rightly, it requires a little effort to close it. Where to push is obvious when the solenoid is apart. There is a black button at the bottom end of the housing that the solenoid moves in that closes the switch. Function can be easily verified with an Ohm meter between the relevant screw contacts on the back end.
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Maybe they wanted exactly those cars? Personally, I would prefer the A4 base over the A6, because it is lighter and more compact. And I've been in an R4 (no, wasn't allowed to drive it myself...). The thing is a farking rocket on wheels.