docc

That's a great circuit for a voltmeter (called "dipped lights" in the wiring diagram, it is the low watt "city light" in the headlamp assembly, the tail light, and the instrument illumination). This is powered by the ignition switch through Fuse #6 (no relay). Probably good to check your voltage drop from the battery to where the meter taps in and add that back to the reading. I reckon it should be less than 1.0 volt, but could easily be 0.5v . . . So great to have @Kiwi_Roy posting (his great ideas and contributions) again. Welcome back, sir!

I realize, now, when I referred to the contact I was thinking of the external connection for the wire rather than inside where the real action is. Thanks for all the replies, so far. I'm still hoping someone recognizes this switch from their Fiat or Lancia . . .

What was your outcome, @leroysch?

Best regards from the U.S.A. , my friends!

Haha - I wondered about the US <--> AUS dollar conversion of late. Thanks for the offer, my man! In addition to sourcing, or reconditioning, my switch, I thought we better hunt down a "compatible part" for this switch. I thought someone had an alternative, but the connection was a male spade, instead of that "T" disc . . .

Pretty sure the sticky part is not the contact, but the internal "plunger" part.

My switch has gotten sticky. Sometimes stuck off, sometimes on. I've seen these self correct with a gearoil change (for which I am due). That could be wishful thinking, so . . . on the hunt . . .

Access to the interwebs with no adult supervision. Fixed it. Thanks for the, er, adult supervision . . .

Even before taxes and shipping, $110US gives me pause . . . https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=871

Hey! Don't be talkin' 'bout my wank like that!

More "patina" talk . . . > Auto Anthropology < . . . https://www.hagerty.com/media/opinion/auto-anthro-the-power-of-patina/?hashed_email=b4b94022c1bd45a1fa61becf3ab2e64665eaea4bd3297978c54e145dd672e019&dtm_em=b4b94022c1bd45a1fa61becf3ab2e64665eaea4bd3297978c54e145dd672e019 Historian and archaeologist Shannon Lee Dawdy quite literally wrote the book on the topic, researching Patina: A Profane Archaeology in New Orleans in the years immediately before and after Hurricane Katrina. She writes: “Two desires coexist: for the youthful, replaceable commodity and for the old, well-worn object … most new commodities lose resale value as soon as they are purchases, but eventually… an object that begins as a generic and replaceable commodity transforms into an idiosyncratic possession with little shared worth, and later into a collectively valued treasure.” And this, Dawdy, again, has the answer. She explains, “[we] value things for the way they transcend their own commodification.”

For those of us who cannot see fb content, would someone kindly share some details (mileage, price, whatever) . . .

No issues with drive spline wear at these miles. And I engine brake and rip out of the curves like a jackrabbit on hot lava. Pretty sure @MartyNZ did the cush rubber drilling. I would trust his opinion of the outcome. Regarding maintenance and lubrication, I am a big fan of Klüber Staburags at every tire change . . .

Hoping to see some updates from our dear friend, @p6x . . .

Odyssey's current list a approved chargers: https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-approved-12V-chargers.pdf

12.84 volts The charging threshold for the Odyssey is 12.65v (85%). This is the point at which the AGM should be properly "conditioned." Asking our V11's flinky charging system to perform the heavy lifting of bringing back an Odyssey more deeply discharged is likely to lead to disappointments.

Worth also checking the AC output of the two yellow stator wires to be certain the alternator is functioning before getting the regulator. Your Odyssey is about 50% at 12.5 volts. Follow the procedure in the "answer" post of the conditioning thread to bring it up with a proper external charger with over 6 amps (not a "trickle" charger).

Thanks for sharing the listings, @drossell7. Shall we clarify the lever is for the clutch side, black (not the early V11 "brown") . . .

First, always go through and clean/ DeOxit/ tighten all connections including the stack of terminals on the battery. Is there any charging voltage at all? Check the battery voltage, key on/not running, then at idle, and at some rpm. What is the battery make/ age? If it is low, see if it will take a charge from an external charger. If it is an Odyssey, see the "answer" post in this thread for correct charging (if it is "dead" /below 12.0 volts. there is a special procedure to bring it up with a good battery before conditioning):

Glad to hear you and Scura #269 are remaining united, @emry! One of our inaugural members, Emry joined in September 2002!

These are like the Shindengan MOFSET ?

Kind of the opposite end of the spectrum from converting back to car-buretters . . .

I want it. Want it bad . . .

I'd like offer a clarification of this point . . . The factory regulator ground is a small gauge wire that does go back to the battery through the factory wiring loom. The regulator (case) benefits from a robust ground directly to the engine/timing chest. What is critical to prevent that tiny wire from (unsuccessfully) carrying the full grounding current, is to regularly service the battery negative/ main ground to the back of the gearbox behind the seat latch: Otherwise: PHOOF!!

The issue is long gone as long as V11 owners realize that running a true, properly rated and constructed, high current micro-ISO relay is the biggest part of the solution. (Issues like tight relay connections can be contributors.) Presently, this Picker Components relay meets or exceeds what we learned to expect from the (nla) OMRON G8HE: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/PC782-1C-12S-R-X/12352866 DATA SHEET