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Pressureangle last won the day on February 5

Pressureangle had the most liked content!

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  • My bikes
    '97 1100 Sport i '89 Mille GT '71 Norton Fastback Commando '74 Aermacchi 350 Sprint
  • Location
    South Florida

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  1. Correct of course, but you've missed the point. It's not the engine we're concerned with, but the handlebars and footpegs and seat. These things have resonant frequencies, and riding with engine RPM in those resonant ranges is uncomfortable. Changing balance factors can uncouple resonant auxilliaries. My carrillo engine is not smoother because it shakes less, but because it isn't felt in the frame and controls. Vibration energy is a function of crankshaft rotating weight, which tries to drag the engine cases with it in a circle. The weight of the reciprocating parts counteracts that even, circular pull but only in the plane of the cylinder; The median balance factor is 50% (that is, crank counterweight is 50% of reciprocating) which then reverses the rotation of the crank action against the cases and minimizes the peak energy at any given direction. A 100% balance factor ends vertical shake (for vertical cylinders) but then the horizontal peak has become twice as energetic. I suspect you know most of this already but it's clarity in the classroom.
  2. It's true, I've had many more failures than the average.
  3. In my (now Son's) '85 LeMans, I installed Carrillo rods, cut the heads .010", and installed a Web 85b cam. It's dead smooth compared to stock, at any RPM. The lesson here, of which I have many examples, is that 'engine balance' and especially 'factory balance' are theoretical models coupled with testing to achieve a target RPM at which the engine is smoothest. If you ride outside the bell curve of balance, or you like the higher and and your particular engine tolerance stacks to balance at a slightly lower RPM you get more buzz. So then let me state for the record that piston weight is not any sort of structural threat, and only affects balance in a small way- sometimes making it better, sometimes making it worse. Flat track engines (back in my day anyway ) were often balanced to a factor of 100%, which kept all the vibration in the horizontal plane, with the claim that it helped traction. Certainly, at very high RPM in lightweight solid mounted frames it kept felt vibration way down, which was probably of more benefit than any claim to traction. This is sort of rambling, but balancing engines which are not used to the margin of their structure is simply a matter of comfort.
  4. This is the same lamp I installed in my Aermacchi, and it's absolutely lovely. Far better than the Phillips sealed beam I had before, and far less load on the charging system.
  5. Here's another bit, specifically addressing HID 'upgrades' not LED but the points and questions remain. Personally, I believe that if an LED allows me to see better than the standard incandescent lamp, I'd use it. If, as on my Aermacchi with it's 140 watt charging system, an incandescent puts the battery charging at risk, an LED is preferred and installed. But my own experience is that I'd rather upgrade the wiring and plug to use a 55w/100w incandescent than an unknown quality LED which may not put the light where I want it. Education and judgement are always in the hands of the user. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html
  6. H4s are about 3/4 down the page. Daniel Stern is one of the largest OEM lighting engineering firms in the world. He's also a classic Mopar guy which is how I came to know him. There's 6 metric tons of knowledge on his website. I haven't reviewed it lately for updated LED information but it doesn't seem that he sells any. I haven't replaced my headlamp bulb since owning the bike, but when I do I'll buy here rather than risk the attendant problems with unproven LEDs. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
  7. I can't think of any reason this check is part of 'routine' maintenance except as a *non-disassembled* check for loosening bearings. On something larger and quieter, one would only ever check wear pattern if the gears became noisy.
  8. ok, now that I understand what is at hand, No, don't touch it. Hypoid gears are carefully set when new and wear in together. If you change anything at all, they will have to wear in again- at best- and you run the risk of point loading them and overheating or seriously wearing them. When re-assembling a hypoid gear set that's worn in, you don't even check the pattern on the drive face; you check the pattern on the coasting face because it's more accurate as it's smaller and doesn't have 'flex' built into it from heavy loading.
  9. Worthless opinion; Trademark protection should be invalid for commerce which *cannot be entered into by the trademark holder*. That is, Moto Guzzi obsoletes a part, they don't get to pursue protection from those who continue to provide it. This thread has reduced by half the possibility I'll buy a new V100. Or whatever their new watercooled aeroplane is called.
  10. Screws are analog, shims are digital. Similar to the warmth of tubes vs. transistors.
  11. My '68 Ducati Jupiter used valve caps for clearance adjustment. I still have some around. A PITA until I made a tool to depress the valve spring retainer down in situ.
  12. Just saw this on WG; parking passes required for Great Smoky Mountains National Park. https://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/fees.htm
  13. Frustrating. Nothing pops out at me. Can you go through the current symptoms, to clear the air as to status? I'm leaning towards an electrical issue, whether ignition or fuel. I'd remake all the grounds, special care to ECU and any grounds on painted surfaces. Not impossible to have an unfortunate concurrent but unrelated issue, like a failing cam sensor.
  14. Check to see if some automotive valve spring shims won't get you there. I have a few, 15mm x 32mm and 22mm x 35mm.
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