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Pressureangle last won the day on December 3

Pressureangle had the most liked content!

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  • My bikes
    '97 1100 Sport i '89 Mille GT '71 Norton Fastback Commando '74 Aermacchi 350 Sprint
  • Location
    South Florida

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  1. Hm, recalling some specific Englishman's theory of maintenance...name's escaping me at the moment
  2. Definitely IW-031. Now to the refit!
  3. I gave up trying to link to Google Photos. Seems only half can see them from my files, so I upload them to imgbb.com and link from there.
  4. Note on my report that they show my injectors as IW 091. I called and they said they read that number from the injector body; it could be a typo but he's asked that I send a picture to verify when they arrive, for clarification. The flow numbers on the report align with the IW-031 published figures and I can't find reference to any IW-091. Stay tuned for academic, incidental drama.
  5. I haven't received my injectors back for install and testing yet, but I got the report back from Injector RX. Although I didn't have any 'symptoms' from poor fueling, I'm sure there'll be a noticeable improvement in smoothness from equalizing vacuum and therefore throttle balance, as well as better throttle response and top end power (a little). A 10% difference at WOT is huge. I'm impressed and pleased with their reporting. $46.00 including return postage, so about $55 round trip.
  6. My methodology for setting street suspension is this; 1st, set ride height and sag. I like 1/2" front and 1/2-1" rear. Front is difficult to change, so 1/2" to 1" is ok. Spring rate is more important. 2nd, set compression F & R on flat straight roads with the sort of surface you want it to work on. 3rd, set rebound on curvy bits with increasing speed until you get where you want to be. There's no perfect setting for public roads, but it's good to know what you prefer in certain places. I keep mine pretty soft normally, but tighten it up significantly for the SSR because the roads are nearly flawless and very slow where the work is hardest.
  7. I trust you physically verified the frame VIN with the title VIN?
  8. Lucky day. Use Murphy's Oil Soap on the leather (or fabric) to take the gas out. May take a couple tries but it will eventually work. Then apply Mink Oil to seal the leather and any residual smell.
  9. If I understand the factory 1100 Sport-i ECU correctly, the TPS value is intended to reflect a specific throttle blade position, which guarantees that the fuel map and the airflow match up correctly. If that's the case, idle speed needs the separate adjustment of air screws. I'm not familiar enough to make intelligent comment beyond that.
  10. I have a Jeffries MyECU. The TPS can be set anywhere from 0.0v to 150mv but you have to edit the text file manually to reflect the idle TPS value. There is no way to know the airflow through the airscrew passages. The best theoretical sequence for balancing throttles is to close the butterflies to as close to zero as possible physically, then set idle speed with butterfly position screws, then balance idle vacuum with idle air screws. In practice, there is no need for either or both screws to pass any air at all, as no fuel is drawn in by them and injected fuel must pass the butterflies by moving air so having them open a little farther at idle is a good thing, as long as you can adjust your TPS to suit. If your butterflies are equalized by position at idle, they are equalized by position all the way through their travel; if you have significant variance in vacuum anywhere in the rpm range you have to look elsewhere for the root cause. Usually it's valve adjustment or intake valve carbon deposits. It can also be unbalanced fuel injectors, as the A/F ratio and atomization also contribute to vacuum. Not to be ignored is the likelihood that the camshaft is not perfect with symmetrical timing on both cylinders. You can adjust vacuum slightly by adjusting intake valves differently from side to side. All these are reasons I use the 80/20 rule on cylinder balance; I care most about idle quality and light throttle drivability than whether I'm getting 30hp from one cylinder and 34 from the other at 4500rpm. Adjusting EFI to perfection is a fool's errand if you're not being paid for it. If you're not certain you have everything satisfactory after your tune-up and balance, read your spark plugs. They are the definitive arbiter of your A/F mixture differential.
  11. I use Marvel Mystery Oil (US brand, a century old) in the fuel periodically because it removes carbon, varnish, and white deposits. This appears to be actual rust, probably from the PO never changing the filter. In any case, it never washed out with anything I tried, and there's plenty in the injector screens as well.
  12. TFW you knew what you'd find. Surprising the thing ran well. Obviously never seen daylight since new.
  13. ...and why to verify your source; these are not 'Chinese copies' these are *Counterfeit* in Bosch packaging, 'made in Germany'. I once ran across a Chinese website advertising counterfeit name-brand packaging. I had a cousin in Customs and Immigration who clued me in to how bad counterfeiting is in the U.S. market.
  14. Actual operating spray pattern for green IW-031 Marelli injectors.
  15. While I'm this far apart and waiting, I'll have my injectors cleaned and perhaps buy a new/rebuilt set for the shelf depending on price and time. I found these guys and an interesting table of injector data including our green IW-031. https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-service/fuel-injectors/fuel-injector-data/weber-fuel-injectors/
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