Pressureangle

"Local Market" lol hey, familiarity is a huge part of marketing. So is Nationalism.

Re-watch (or watch the first time) the original "The Italian Job" movie. It's easy to miss, but the gold they stole was Chinese gold brought to finance auto factories in Italy. Released in 1969. The Italians have been in bed with the Chinese WRT vehicles since WWII. I suspect this motorcycle will be found to be made under license to MG for the Chinese domestic market only.

Cute, if weird in that Pininfarina way

No, I think you're right; if you grease it manually and annually, the bung is really just a dust shield anyway.

Driveshaft spline lubrication is more complicated than it seems it should be, not just ours. The main problems are 2; firstly, distributing the grease from the single entry point equally around all the splines. This is usually done by a circumferential groove under the zerk, or as it appears in the V11 shaft by putting the zerk in the endspace where it can find it's way through everywhere. The other problem is the hydraulic one; if you have a relief in the endspace, the grease finds it's way out without going through the splines. The hydraulic action is what drives the lubricant through the splines. On big heavy stuff like trucks, the pressure isn't an issue because the motion is very slow with little travel- by the time it's left the driveway, the shaft has generally gone through most of it's range of motion and made space. On ours, this may not be the case and that first big bump could hydraulic the shaft and um...interfere with suspension movement. My shaft has the zerk in the middle of the splines, and I'm not sure whether it has a distribution groove or not- but I don't grease the zerk anyway, I disassemble the shaft and apply open gear & cable lube manually. That way I'm assured everything is clean and lubed as it can be. So I'm with Phil on the sealing of the yoke end, and after greasing compressing the suspension manually as much as possible to get the range of motion freed up.

Nope. A physical fault would not explain the time factor, that without being touched the lights eventually come on, and every time. The capacitor effect explains. And, so far they're still off after cleaning. Interesting to note, my switch has 3 contact plates; nor are the 6 small contacts connected to anything.

Yes. I misunderstood what he was saying. Of course, the switch activates that circuit separately from the ignition and headlamp, whether in 'run' or 'park'.

But the 'park' is below the 'lock' position, available only after the fork lock is activated. So, stuck in place. Talked with Nic about the lights- he's humble about it but he's the youngest Certified Naval Nuclear Powerplant Operator the Navy ever graduated, so knows electronics to the atomic level. He suggested that the debris in the ignition switch actually created a capacitor, which I'd considered but don't have the depth of knowledge to more than imagine. He says capacitors are nothing more than basically dielectric grease with some current-carrying stuff mixed in it, which is precisely what was in the switch. <shrug> We'll know soon enough, I guess.

Verified, the instrument lamps light as well as the taillight.

On the way home from the SSR, I had to give up the tunes to Nic; of course everyone likes what they heard when they were a teenager so, here you go; I know every word on the album because I used to travel with the kids a lot...

SO much better than the original. I hate the original.

The 'park' position does, but not 'lock'. Is my scheme, or switch, the same as your V11? from L bottom clockwise, park-lock-push-off-run I mean to say, I never tried turning the key from 'off' to 'lock' while the offending lights were illuminated to see if they went out.

I wish now that we'd made a test of the parking state; I never turned it to the 'lock' position to discover whether that would turn the lights off, or prevent them coming on. Oh well, we'll know soon enough.

I don't know that the V11 is the same, but the fork lock is an entirely separate housing riveted to the top fork clamp, to which the switch screws into the bottom of. I did not explore how the key cylinder itself comes out.

Yes! I should have made mention. The first came easily, then the whole thing rotated out easily while I was working on the second retainer. Still to note, the pick must be thin, and pointed enough to penetrate your finger when you slip. No blood, no glory