Pressureangle

Great to know that's available. I disassembled my mine ('97) cleaned everything, filled with fork oil and assembled it with oil running everywhere to make sure it had no air in it. Been perfect and dry for ~7 years. The problem with it was simply dirt letting the oil out; it didn't ruin the seal in my case.

^ Phil said it. Each of 6 cells in a 12v battery has nominal 2.2v. If one cell is dead or shorted, it will show full voltage while open-circuit but any load kills it's voltage, so you read the remaining 5 cells x ~2v.

*That* was fun.

I know the struggle.

I can attest that the sidestand on 1150GS's is entirely fooked, in all regards. Far more anxious than the V11's. That said, the only sidestands I would ever trust to horse-mount are big H-Ds and Moto Guzzi Police Tontis.

40 years ago I knew an old guy, who had Model T Fords. He said 'his OGs' used to talk about using leather belts for rod bearings when they couldn't acquire or afford replacing the babbit.

I'm sure that OSHA, FDA, API, and the Commerce Department have space between their thresholds for naming something 'oil' lol

F'n Magic, bro. "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" -Arthur C. Clarke

<side-eying your heavy duty latex shop glove box>

I will personally vouch for this; Loosens ridiculously siezed locks, to wit; 30 years unused security door latch in El Paso. Applies easily, not sticky, doesn't linger on finger, and critically important; DOESN'T STINK. https://www.superslickstuff.com/product/houdini-lock-lube/

I have a lithium in my Aermacchi. It was taken from my 1100 Sport as a necessity of the moment; I needed a battery, and when I got it home I stuck it in the empty hole of the 'Sport rather than swapping. The lithium has been sitting there waiting for probably 2 years now, in the 350; it's attached to a Shindengen regulator. I start it maybe every 3-4 months, and it has never failed to crank on the electric starter. FWIW. I have once or twice put the NOCO smart charger on it, but it always showed full charge just about the time I would walk away from it.

I think we threw wine bottles off a porch in Northern Virginia once

The ECU tells the fuel pump to run, so it doesn't seem likely that's your trouble, though possible. To check the cam sensor depth, if you have no tools, hold the new and old ones up to each other so the end of each touches the flange of each. They will probably be identical so you can assume the shims that worked in the past will work with the new sensor. The shims are more likely to be dependent on individual case machining than difference in sensor length. Since you're already installed it, if the shims are in, ok. If you installed it without shims, pull to see if the reluctor has shaved the tip of the sensor. The schematic I have shows that the sensor is a simple analog coil, the third wire is in fact a grounded shield to keep AC voltage from messing with other electronics. The wires on the ECU side of the sensor connector should be tan and white, pins 7 and 12 on the ECU connector. With a second helper and a digital multimeter, you can test the sensor at both plugs for AC voltage output while you crank the motor. The coils are powered along with the fuel pump and injectors by the fuel pump relay. Fuel pump primes...Yes? pull an intake boot back, open the throttle and look with a flashlight into the open throttle body. When you first turn the key, or perhaps the run switch, the injectors should spray for a moment, to prime the engine. If you can confirm that you have fuel from the injectors and signal from the cam sensor, then we can look at the magic box. Until then, I'm with Dr. House; "It's never the ECU".

Is that biscuits and gravy, or SOS? Either way, I'm in.