Pressureangle

I did a lot of homework to find these. I tracked the manufacturer to Italy, but I could never find anyone in Italy who will ship to the U.S.- it seems to be an Italian tradition not to. The important thing here is to know that there are other units out there that have the correct measure on the box- but they are beyond junk. The only other vehicle I've ever found this size on are some Russian manufactured 4x4 ATV. I ordered some from China and when they came they looked like they were hand-hammered from poor iron ore by an upland Pakistani with two hard stones. I never found *any* confident source for the genuine Concordia units other than the Montreal distributor- I'm sure they can be had in Europe, but I couldn't find any path to order them simply- thus the phone call to Montreal.

This comment actually brings something to light (I wish I'd thought that pun) that I hadn't considered; The editorial I linked to says, without saying, that an inappropriate lamp makes ineffective use of the reflector and that prevents the light 'getting where it's needed'. BUT. What if I never ride at night? What if I ride at night only in the city, or only below 45mph? I might make the argument that having more wasted light, or glare to oncoming traffic, is actually safer under these conditions.

I ran across something I've known for a decade, figured I'd present it for those who haven't seen it. I picked this thread at random as an LED lighting thread. I installed an LED in my '74 Aermacchi and it's enormously better than the stock sealed beam- or the more modern high output H4. But it was also very expensive. I chose it because I have only 140 watts of charging system to work with. I improved the light on my 1100 Sport by cleaning the inside of the lens; my '85 LeMans was *hugely* improved by adding a separate battery circuit and 30a relay to the H4. I haven't yet relayed the 'Sport, but I expect the same level of improvement. I don't LED. https://danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Yes of course the specs are easy to know, but I meant that nobody has said they either checked it (but docc's wheel off checklist) or verified that it was tight to spec. ...aaaand you may ask if I applied a torque wrench to my own. I have not. But I have given it the ol' grunt test from time to time. This particular mechanism of failure is pretty universal in any device that has connecting rods or stay arms with a captive bushing.

I'm hesitant to jump in here but... This bolt's job is not to hold your rod in shear. This bolt's job is to clamp the frame tabs onto the bushing spacer hard enough that it doesn't move at all, and the bolt should never be put in a meaningful shear state. Nobody has mentioned the torque spec for this bolt... Secondarily, bolt hardness and tensile strength are not *necessarily* correlated with shear strength. Toughness is (which nobody quantifies on a bolt, it's a characteristic of the material of the bolt) If the bolt doesn't clamp sufficiently, and is tough enough that it never shears, you'll eventually end up with egg-shaped holes in the frame tabs as the weakest link wears. All that said, a harder bolt with higher tensile strength is less subject to relaxing over time and allowing the spacer to bang it every time you roll on/off the throttle. Meh.

One can never have too much insurance. The only concern is cost, and this is not a place I'd save money. I don't have metal core gaskets in mine, but I will if the sump ever comes off again. I recommend replacing the stock sump bolts with 5mm longer ones, to be sure you have full thread engagement. Nobody wants stripped sump threads.

docc, do you need an engraved plate for your wall? I can probably make that happen before September. [docc edit/reply: Absolutely, @Pressureangle! I am all about supporting , and archiving, the community efforts. Just don't let it be a burden to perform that just for me.] (Odd way to reply, I know, but meant to avoid drifting @Guzzi-in-Vancouver's important thread.)

You said you disconnected the sidestand switch. Was it left simply disconnected, or was a bypass connection added? If it works without the switch but fails with the switch in place that points to a bad switch. My '97 has no sidestand switch but even back in the 1980s when I was racing Japanese bikes, everyone removed the sidestands, but the remaining switches put a lot of guys on the side of the track so we eliminated them always. I haven't studied the circuit diagram so maybe I'm missing something but the switch itself is suspect.

I did, and it's accurate but for the needle wiggle. I do have a brand-new (2 years now) and *very* expensive NOS Daytona tach installed.

Remind me to tell the story of a friend, a Kawasaki 500 triple, and being able to run on two cylinders... (Spine Raid content)

They are not. We did a few to start, but the stainless material and our engraving machine didn't like each other very much. To send them for laser engraving would have added to the cost.

What is it about that generation...of Germans? My Grandfather taught me in precisely that way. He was a WWI AAC mechanic. His 'right hand man' was a former POW Luftwaffe mechanic. Our family comes primarily from Frankfurt and Gdansk, though both in the 1800s. Learning was always interactive with them. One Great-Uncle drove a heavy truck through WWII, another was tail gunner in a B-17 and after surviving 10 missions with a dozen kills, they brought him to Pensacola to be a gunnery instructor.

I had a look at the part, it's certainly something we could make. We're in expansion mode right now and alternating between 'buried' and 'catching up'. I haven't even been able to get the plastic balance rod knobs made yet.

MyECU uses an Android app and bluetooth dongle to tune. It's a fundamentally simple system with complete ownership of the program. The only complaint I can make is that I need reading glasses and a magnifying glass to make adjustments to a small map area as the numbers are tiny. I believe you can export the .bin files into TunerPro, but I've not done it.

Guzzidiag? What's that do? I have a Jeffries MyECU. Yes, my idle speed on the tach is within ~50rpm of actual at idle. I keep it to 1150-ish.