docc

How extraordinary our forum, and very specifically @audiomick came through on this matter!

Short answer: state of tune. FWIW, I gradually roll the throttle open while cranking and release it when it starts. When hot, I use no throttle or "high idle setting" and it catches instantly. This start was a little slow for mySport, but it is due a "Decent Tune-up" and, most especially, fresh sparkplugs.

What adhesive do you recommend, considering the heat cycling there along with the road spray/ leading edge location? edit: the heat got me wondering if the bracket could be designed to hold the wiring off of the timing chest surface . . .

True and actual rubber assembly lube: https://www.amazon.com/IPC-Emulsion-Temporary-Assembly-Lubricant/dp/B008AYUQVG

I mean, if you are going to sport, Sport Naked . . .

Welldone, @O2 V11!

This got me thinking about how much our Texas members > RIDE >> Maybe trying to " . . . lose those Lone Star Blues . . . " (How many celebrity "stars" do you see in this video?)

Do not miss this talent . . .

Tidy little bracket! Of the four Eagle medallions, only the one on the alternator cover has a slight curve to it? The factory aluminum one can be bowed a bit to fit. Can yours be heated and similarly bowed?

Keep an (infrared) eye on that nefarious fuse. And also the relays, especially #5 (the furthest back). Using the "Best Relay" is well indicated for reliability.

FWIW, just adding "more fuel" has been shown to be the wrong path for the V11, for various reasons. More success has been achieved unplugging the PC and making certain all of the tuning parameters are correct.

google "heated pxnxs gourd" and your search engine parameters could be permanently altered . . .

These are seen on the early Sport wiring diagram as #44: "Warning light connectors" and came to the U.S.A. with nothing connected to them. Perhaps the Euro bikes got the "heated gourd." Apparently the Genuine Article came with a Warning Light. As it well should !

No mention of throttle body balance (?) Tapping on the injector may have simply affected the electrical connection. Perhaps worth treating all the electrical connections with something like (there is nothing like) Caig DeOxit® . . .

@Dragonknee, what specifically has determined it is an injector problem?

Works for me: https://en.tlm.nl/search-results-page/?q=Used cardan

Yes, indeed! ~38,000 miles/almost 60.000km and 8 1/2 years on the circuit breaker. I had tried the MAXI fuse soldered in line, but it, too, failed from the heat.

Sign me up for the bracket and a medallion set!

@OGGUZZI, I have been thinking that it may not be the lock cylinder, but the two "catches" that hold the cap to the underside of the filler neck. In that case, I wonder if pressing down on the cap and working the cylinder repeatedly might break it loose. Or, perhaps, give the cap a gentle, but abrupt, *rap* with a rubber mallet or plastic cased deadfall hammer.

Image shows wire grooming, @sp838's 3D printed medallion, as well as zip-tie fluid and very special Cable® GuzziStuff toolbox . . .

The OMRON we so long relied upon are NLA. The Pickers Components are presently our best option with the CIT running a close second.

Many find 0.006/0.008 a better set-up, so your intake was really not that far off. My sidestand wiring has a little zip-tie that gathers it, loosely, to the cover mount. I would love to see some 3D printed eagle medallions. Years ago, @sp838 made some with the Gambalunghino eagle.

The "Werle" looks to be 15 amps (NC) and 25 amps (NO). This should be adequate for all positions and the name implies it is German and the ratings should be reliable. I did not look up that Bosch data sheet, but 10/20 rated relays should be avoided in our V11. [Note that the early V11 Sports, 1999-2001, do not benefit from the added start relay of the later V11, yet require a true High Current relay in position #1. The presently available High Current relays are linked in the "Answer" ppost on page 5, preferably the Pickers Components, yet also the CIT:

Oooooh, yes . . . .