docc

I had a minor vacuum leak at one of the taps that gave me a fit before finding it. Similar fits when the rubber caps had cracked and loosened on the taps. For a time, I used shortened bolts to block the vacuum access, but one time the threads pulled out and I went back to the taps with silicone caps.

Fine to cap the intake taps and see if it changes your issue. I finally sourced silicone caps that hold up much better to the heat cycling and fuel exposure. With the tank off, you can "T" the tank vent and overflow together to route an exit behind the rear of the sump. I loosely zip-tie mine to the fitting for the oil evap return line. At some point, my funky, old tub-of-a-Sport started leaving a puddle on the lift, so I added a spooge catcher. I've never seen anyone devalue a V11 that was without the evap mess. When I pulled mine off the early Sport with dual canisters in the underseat tool tray, I found there was twenty (20!) feet of 1/2" US fuel line and the mess weighed five pounds. Of course, I saved it in the cabinet full of Sport stuff.

Eight weeks out. Changed engine and gearbox oil, Decent Tune-up, and addressed some niggles. Pondering matters of tires . . . [edit/46 minutes later: "pondering" turned into a fresh set of Pirelli Angel GT on the way . . . ]

Taking a closer look at the Workshop Manual, the degrees opening of the throttle plate at idle is 3,6º +/- 0,5º (3.1º - 4.1º). The corresponding mV I have written in the margin for this range is 5.10 - 5.38 mV. Pretty sure I got this from Ed Milch very early on. The Workshop Manual states this setting should yield an idle of 1050 +/-50 rpm and that, if it doesn't, to set the TPS to 150mV +/- 15. First of all, that is a ridiculously wide range for the TPS baseline (135 - 165 mV). I ran mySport at the top end of that range back in the early days and it does not run well (thinking, at the time, "I'll just add more fuel by turning up the TPS.") Certainly, the best results indexing the mechanical throttle position to the mapping is to baseline as close to 157mV as possible and balance the throttle bodies at "some" rpm. Accounting for my worn throttle shafts (and bores and plates), I used this (rather intimate) method to hold the throttle plate closed after pressing the bottom of shaft toward the other throttle body, along the axis of the throttle connection rod. Out for a shakedown ride after the throttle body balancing, she seems quite happy with the outcome . . . Idle preference is another matter. Once all tuning parameters are addressed (including setting the CO Fuel Trim, which cannot be overlooked), put your idle wherever you and your V11 are happiest. In these high ambient temperatures (90-95ºF/ 32-35ºC), and owing to my well worn flywheel teeth and gearbox input hub teeth, I prefer my idle toward the 1500 rpm mark; much less rattle at idle, more stable if stuck in traffic, and more oil for cooling, methinks. [Just a quick reminder that the factory tachometers, especially the early white-face Vague-liar are known to read up to 300-500 rpm high. In the event the tach is used to set the idle at 1000 rpm (1050 minus 50), the poor thing is trying to stay alive idling at 500-700 rpm. ]

The recurring take-away regarding "manufacturers' recommendations" : Due to the increasingly stringent approval regulations . . . This is certainly the case with reduced zinc and phosphorous (ZDDP) considered desirable for our flat tappet engines. The matter of PAO and ester base oils being obscured has much to do with what oil manufacturers can get by with (cheaper, easier to source base oils) while still marketing, and charging for, a "synthetic" product. A couple things I learned from well informed other sources about the desirability of pure (group 4 group 5) is vastly improved shear resistance (stable viscosity over the service life) and near-zero evaporative losses from heat (something to consider with air cooled motors with funky crankcase ventilation systems).

I don't see anything there that resembles our (four) V11 Eagle "tags" that come so easily unglued . . . @sp838's 3D prints from some time ago (not sure if they are still available):

Let's all pony up to fact that what we are being sold as "AI" is neither artificial nor intelligent. It is a function of search engines being populated by algorithms designed by software engineers that are working for various entities that designate the outcome parameters.

Are the three 1100 Sport-i relays cube (square top) "mini" relays while the five V11 relays are 1/2 cube (rectangular top) "micro-ISO" ?

Castrol GTX was popular with the street racers back in the '70s here and I became a devoted Castrol fan. Decades later, a respected auto mechanic told me he did not care for their products as they discolored the engine internals to a brown/bronze coloration. I had just thought that's what color engines were inside! So, I moved on to Mobil1, then Lucas in mySport. After learning about base oils (thanks, Richard Widman) and what "synthetic" means (or doesn't) in this country I selected RedLine and never looked back. s said, we all have our preferences and mySport has always had some oil in it, typically with 5,000 mile changes.

I gave up on Mobile1 for the motorcycles when I could not discern their base oil. Same with Lucas. Frankly, that suggests (to me) they are only Group 2 base oils. RedLine is a reliable Group 5 (full ester) base oil, if I understand correctly. Also, Schaeffer's Specialized Lubricants and Brad Penn/ PennGrade are worth looking at.

The first thing my dealer did after I bought mySport new was send a larger (still Siemens ) relay for the front/start position. This was early 2000 and the under-rated relay issues were already showing up.

Seems the entire passenger car industry went through this transition in lubricant "recommendations." I remember this discussion regarding a Jeep I owned with a motor that had been produced over a significant span of years with no mechanical or tolerance changes, yet the "recommended oil" kept getting thinner and thinner. At the time, there were knowledgeable folks that argued for using the oil that was spec'd for the engine when it was developed, rather than later recommendations seemingly driven by goals other than long term ownership and reliability. As always, "YMMV" . . .

Changes in how the motor vehicle industry has been challenged to reduce emissions. Thinner oil = less friction = less fuel consumption over an entire fleet of a manufacturers' vehicle range. Basically the same "thinking" that gave us "lifetime" lubricants and "the computer will tell you when to change oil" aka: vastly extended change intervals to show the world how a particular range of vehicles is reducing consumption and waste. Certainly, this "engineering" has been mindful of the warranty period. Others have a more technical and informed view of the matter. I was just "in a mood" and there is my

After a 60 mile ride in 90ºF+ ambient heat, I found the alternator cover about 190ºF and the finning of the timing chest 225-230ºF (warmest closest to the alternator cover).

It is interesting to note that the later "CARC" set-up indexes the TPS with the throttle bodies seated on the factory pre-set idle stop (The Sacred Screw) in "similar fashion" to @Doansci's approach. Using the V11 "completely closed" index is curious since, once the linkage is hooked up and the idle set, the ECU never sees any values below the idle setting. It is simply the established method to index the map to the physical throttle opening through the rest of the range to WOT. Can the same indexing be achieved using the throttle angle at idle and the TPS at "some" mV? Sure, but it is going to be hit or miss. Seems @Doansci got a hit! (YMMV) P.S. - I am due a fresh Decent Tune-up and will pay attention to where my throttle degrees opening and mV end up at idle . . .

I think we should be sourcing a "compatible part" instead of the Gu$$i part. I feel certain someone posted this switch with a male spade connector (instead of the "T-disc"). Yet, I cannot find it . . .

Started my "shakedown/prep" for the XXI South'n SpineRaid, about two months out (metric: 8,6 weeks ). Sixty mile/97 km warm-up ride (aka: get beer). Onto the lift and drop motoroil and gearbox oil. No metal fuzz on the engine drain plug (6300 miles/ 10.000 km); the "usual" fuzz on the gearbox plug (15,000 miles/24.000 km). Out with the oil filter through the access cover, remove the label from the new WIX filter and see that the old filter gasket came out with the old filter. Fresh RedlIne 20W-50 after being certain the filter access cover screwed back on perfectly. Took time to troubleshoot the (lately) dodgy Neutral Switch. Fitted a new crush washer (to space the switch correctly on the shift plate) and adjusted the external shift mechanism connecting rod so the lever clears the Frame Side Plate/"stiletto" on the downstroke. On to service all major electrical grounds and battery terminals with CRC Electronics Cleaner® and Caig DeOxit®. Yeah, that's a French medical graduated cylinder. Yeah, I use that to add 850.0 ml to the gearbox. Yeah, I know that's bogus. I even heated the gear oil to 120ºF/ 49ºC for a clean pour. Next: Decent Tune-up . . .

I couldn't measure how little the plunger moves to close the switch, but is has to be less than 0.004" (maybe as little as 0.002"). "A skosh " . . . So, my circuit tested good (light on when wire-end connector grounded, off when open), and the switch tested good (considering the wee skosh of movement to actuate). So, I am happy, yet surprised, to report a new crush washer was the solution. For now. Some things don't stay fixed. I also found my shift lever striking the lower hook of the Frame Side Plate/ "Stiletto " on the downstroke. Lengthened the connector rod one full turn of the rear rose/Heim joint. As noted, "Some things don't stay fixed. "

As in directly through a fuse or circuit breaker? Admittedly, the factory charging wire from the regulator to the battery is ridiculously small . . .

Pickers Tycos edit: Pretty sure Seimens Siemens were original across the V11 range, most certainly on the early Sports 1999-2001.

@Doansci, considering your interesting inquiry, it occurred to me the regulator voltage reference relies on the nefarious Relay #2. What sort of relays are in the relay stack now? You speak Caig DeOxit? Clean, treat and tighten the terminal stacks on the battery....

My recollection is that this applies to the small gauge factory regulator ground back through the loom to the battery. Yet, there is wisdom in making a short, robust ground from the regulator case to the engine/timing chest as long as the main battery ground to the back of the gearbox is reliably serviced. Comments, @Kiwi_Roy ? edit: (Inadequate) factory regulator ground wire after failed main battery ground to rear of the gearbox:

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-voltrect.htm

Our European brothers can help me on this, but my understanding is that there are regulations in (some?) European cities that the high wattage headlight is turned off and this 4 watt "city light" remains illuminated. V11 with "European switchgear" has this option (Hi/Lo + Off). I recall when I lived in Germany, my mother commented that it was illegal to blow a car horn outside of an emergency. Here in The States it's open season on horn honking!