docc

I should probably buy those FBF valves, but how would I know if I'll need the oversize? I'm trying to hold out for the 100,000 mile tear down (30,000 to go).

The most likely culprit is the clutch switch or its flinky 'bullet' connectors under the left forward side of the tank. SH drives home a good point that there are quite a few connectors that could use a good clean and crimp! No doubt, you should be certain your relays have been upgraded to either OMRON or GEI. If she does it again, try twisting the bars full left and full right, attempting to engage the starter at various points. Success would surely implicate the connections for the clutch switch. Flow chart for function:

Hey! I resemble that remark Those classic looking "silencers" look really stunning on the Sport! I never heard anyone say that their Ti ECU was a major improvement. Those cans were not available until, when, 2003? And, they were probably made by Mistral, yet I thought they were oval (?) Whatever the change, taking off the stock LaFranconis will probably drop about 10 pounds (or is that one stone?)

I recall the Titanium cans were sold with a replacement ECU, no? Nice looking pieces! Looking forward to the picture installed!

GreenNinja's Scura appears to have a "late" configuration (frame mounted instruments and fairing). Is it for sure that he has the single plate clutch and aluminum flywheel? When I look through my inspection hole, I can see the flywheel is definitely ferrous (rusty). BTW, the "inspection hole" is on the right behind a rubber plug just behind the motor. What do you see in there GN?

Sounds like you really made out! When's the big party with the prize money?

Tom, Thanks for the update. What kind of valves?

All true, what Pasotibbs has said. If you can keep the pistons clean and the fluid fresh, the tiny rear pads may last a bit longer, but 10,000 is probably the high side. Even if you don't use the rear brake! And the length of the string: too short.

It felt great to get out on the Sport today as well! While I rode, I thought how far the bike had come with set-up. I never found the damping settings really affected things much. But, taking the time and effort to set the "sag" and get the right springs really makes all the difference.

Hi, Richard! Thanks for the pics of the show. Looks like fun. When you get a chance, update your member profile with your location. It would be good to know where you're posting from.

Hey, I'm glad you took time to look it over. It's not exactly an "easy read." Real Ground Hog Day stuff . . . While I've got my oil choices down to "two", I'm not at all comfortable with them and will probably change the V11 to something else one more time. Maybe you could let me borrow your yak . . .

Neat, Bob! Thanks for posting the changes. As RH, this is the first I recall of anyone fitting a 150. I sure hope you'll keep us posted on your impressions. Which tire make/type did you fit? And 150/60 or maybe 150/70?

It says a lot about winter in British Columbia that a sensible sort as yourself would read through that complex document. Good on ya, docc

I posted this link on a thread in 24/7 V11, but thought we might should entertain it here. This is the most thorough single technical article I've read on oil, ratings, additives and the relationship to flat tappet cams in air cooled motors. I first read the ninth revision (about ten times) and continue to try to get it all into my thick cortex. Honestly, my goal has been to narrow down my oil selections to two products for my three passenger vehicles, two motorcycles, and variety of air cooled small engines. In the end, the compromises are inevitable and I'm still not using the best air filter . . . Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and other Engines By Richard Widman

There was no rotational "give" in the washer stack? Hmmm, I thought that is what it is supposed to do . . . but, I've only ever just studied the diagrams while wondering what could be so screwed up in my early gearbox (before the recall). I see your point on "chatter" as I believe that occurs with the clutch fully engaged. Seems like any part of the drive line that allows for some lash could accentuate the rattle. And, I could see that a heavier flywheel would damp the rattling effects to a degree. SO, yeah, it's "normal" kind of like my former girlfriend's polar disorder. Hey it was "normal" for her.

Interesting to note both the replies came from forum members with 2002 V11s. My 2000 had a spring failure, but with a replacement 2002 gearbox. One could hope your 2001 won't be so afflicted!

At the risk of inserting vulnerable fleshy parts directly into a cat fight, the early six-speed has a "cush drive" (not the cush drive in the bevel box), that increases drive line lash and certainly lends to the lash that would accentuate the "chatter." Problems with this unit were a component of the early gearbox recall. Mine has been less chatty since the change. I know all parties are fully capable of answering for themselves, but in the spirit of having a "forum" I figure I'd chime in. And, I suppose it's just my multi-cylinder background, but is "firing order" the correct term for the degrees of crank rotation between cylinder ignitions?

This simple procedure, or its variants (deviants?) remains the single best medicine to tune a V11. Over the years it has cured more weirdness and woes in the Guzzi than any other single approach. Tune early and often!

Mick, That is a fine Compendium of Woes! My son had asked me he should really buy a Mini Cooper since the forums showed so many problems with them. If you judged by the posting, you wouldn't think there was a V11 still running in the whole world. Yet, I agree, these bikes are worth working through the little issues. At 10 years/ 67,000 miles the Sport is happy as could be, reliable, and wondrous to ride! Well, there was that little stator failure last year . . .

Duh , I read that as Mount Vernon VA!(There's a "Washington" near there, too . . . ) There are some great posts on filters. Be prepared for staggering detail: torque specs, gasket thickness,clamp anchors and the like. But, it's all good and you'll be glad you checked it out! Just do a search in "Nuts and Bolts" for oil filters. I hope you like using a multi-meter and have some polished combination wrenches that feel like jewelry to your hands.

Mobil-1 makes so many different products, I would find it hard to generalize. Last trip to the store I found three different 10w-30 Mobil-1 products. The only Mobil-1 I would consider for the Guzzi is the Turbo Diesel Truck product with the API service rating CI-4 as this reflects the higher ZDDP content. Of course, I like this New Belgium black ale, too, and that's not to just everyone's liking . . . And, hey, here's an amazingly detailed and researched article on oils in flat tappet situations: Corvair_oil

Hey, everything (eventually) dried!

I think you stole it. I paid twelve grand for mine. But after ten years and 67,000 miles I think it's given me some of that back! If you're looking for a nice shakedown ride and a chance to compare her to others, consider the Sixth South'n Spine Raid somewhere near the NC/TN border the first weekend in June.

Aw, I figured the forum *proceeds* were making you so fabulously wealthy that you would be keeping a Stelvio here in the States and a Griso in New Zealand so you always had a ride as your private jet brought you about! I'm still not convinced we can buy ale anywhere near the mountains. Apparently, it cuts into the local moonshine trade . . . And who said anything about rain? Reports of rain at the South'n Spine Raid are grossly over exaggerated by riders who have been wet getting there. Or getting home. Or riding on that diesel oil slick last year for twenty miles.

We're trying to hone in on a proper venue. Define that as: walking distance to food (or Pizza delivery); beer sales at the gas stop across the street; a Saturday loop without looking at the sun all day. Perhaps you local chaps could help out. Any suggestions?