docc

I thought that's what I said. I can certainly agree. Further, these discussions and debates have almost always helped me get the Sport better set up. It absolutely does not ride like the machine delivered to me new nine years ago. Just think what it will be like when I get around to drilling those cush drive rubbers!

I still say: More damper: more high speed weave. Dampers are for the nasty wobble when the front is light and there's a sudden *bump*. In no way do I think my opinion applies to Exiting Turn Two.

I'm really relieved the battery and the regulator are still good. And the Sport really runs better. I'm certain the stator has been playing up for quite some time. Plus I had time to really clean up the mess on the front of the motor, repaint the alternator cover (five coats of Eastwood), and replace my worn out FIAMMs (one lasted 6 years, but the other only one year). Thanks again to everyone for the feedback and support. My Sport would surely not be what it is with out this forum!

OK, then, nobody has had their stator apart? First, yes, the collars must be removed. Apply penetrating oil and come back in an hour. Prop the (old, dead) windings on a staub in the vise. Apply propane heat all around the aluminum collar. Tap and drift gently but decidedly at 120 degree intervals. If your V11 finally has 68,000 miles plus when you get to this point, expect to spend some time cleaning up the effects of steel (stator) against aluminum (the collars). I opted to splice the bullet connectors back in rather than convert to blades. vAC: 26 @1500 rpm 61 @ 3000 rpm (I guess my VOM is okay) vDC: 12.6 @ 900 rpm 13.5 @ 1500 rpm Thanks again to John at EuroMotoElectrics You know what's really amazing? Not that this bike is 9 years old or that I've flogged it onto some really hard miles (even into some rain that had a name ("Isadore"). No, it's that the battery light came on last Friday, and I opted to head toward home. I rode about an hour and a half before the ignition gave up. That's fifty plus miles on the Hawker Odyssey alone. Not a bad 'limp home' mode. AND: today, less than a week later, she's back in service! I'm not sure I could get my Honda back into play any quicker. Thanks to this forum (ja, dat means you! ), MI (SeattleWA) and John at EuroMotoElectrics!

The good news is EuroMotoElectrics had the stator here in just a couple days. The bad news is that the old stator has a two part collar which sandwiches the stator itself. Is it that I should remove the collars somehow? They don't seem to want to drift easily. Bigger hammer? Heat? Or do I have the wrong stator?

I wonder if the damper location right above the oil cooler contributes to failure from heat exposure?

WT: Try setting every thing up at a higher idle RPM. The tach may be reading "low." Do a full TPS / throttle body balance at 1300 RPM indicated on the tach. Open your "air bypass screws" to one full turn. Just my Bad-2-cents! Good luck! docc

I thought it was like tare weight. You weigh the receptacle ( you know: baggie, zip-lock, bowl, whatever), and subtract it from the final measure), and use the net measure. I was trying to be smarter than my multi-meter (I'm not, of course, but trying).

hey, no problem! I appreciate everyone's input before I order a $250 part that might not fix the problem. I was thinking I had a pretty decent multi-meter. It's Triplett 9005-A that I got from the local electrical supplier (not WalMart). In checking the windings' resistance I even knew to subtract the 0.3 Ohm of the test leads. (I'm kind of surprised nobody mentioned that). In the next $245 and 3-7 days I'll find out if this was a good call!

Yes, EuroMotoElectrics in Colorado, USA, stocks the part for $235 US. I'm checking now on the extra shipping for 2-day delivery as the summer heat has just cleared and this coming weekend has an extra day ("Labor Day" here in America). I can always ride my GB500 (she never seems to miss a beat!)

Whoa! I thought the meter measured AC between the two yellow wires? (not ground)

DCv: Key on - 12.62 Running (any RPM) - 11.95

I'm guessing the AC frequency changes with RPM. Yet, isn't the 0.1 Ohm resistance outside the expected range of 0.2-0.3? Unfortunately the battery light stays on on start-up. I'll look again at the running voltage, but it does not appear to be charging.

Resistance between the yellow wires is 0.1 Ohm and the there is no continuity to ground. I suppose the stator is played up. Euro Moto Electrics has it for $235 US. The new stator will develop a "relationship" with my existing rotor? I guess there is still no 450 watt upgrade available for the V11 motor without the tapered shaft?

I'll recheck the resistances now that it's back together and I've cleaned it up. Before removal, it was open to ground and 0.25 Ohms between them. The manual says it should be over 10MOhms to ground. "Open" is more than 10MOhms, yes?

I do feel exonerated to have replaced my damper after it began to leak and I drained all the oil out. I certainly didn't like the way it "felt" (whatever that is) without the damping and too many experienced riders gasped and cast aspersions when I mentioned my Grand Solution of taking the oil out to prevent the leaking. Seemed brilliant at the time. I am waiting for the final fitment to report on my new, improved replacement for the leaky Bitubo. Rock Steady, docc

I didn't see the demagnetizing note in the manual. In fact, I didn't see the disassembly sequence at all. So, the stator did come off easily. (My harness has been previously, er, groomed.) I repaired the open with a solid solder job, but upon reinstallation the alternator only throws 2.0 vAC. Demagnetized, or toast?

One of the yellow wires has broken off the stator. Can I just remove the stator by loosening the collar without removing the rotor held onto the crank end? Aren't there some springs and brushes in there, or no?

Yes, same anti-seize paste, BUT: I was using this on spark plug threads and found the heat set it up into a hard, locking compound. NOT what I wanted for my plugs! So, I have stopped using it for plug threads.

I don't think anyone has mentioned that the rubber boots for the intake can pop loose from the head. Pull back on the throttle bodies to see if they are each fastened securely to the intake tract. (By "thermal line" I think Dlaing was meaning thermal liner or thermal lining.)

I keep hearing that using dielectric grease around any sort on contacts (switches, relays) promotes the formation of silicon dioxide. Not good to have a layer of glass on your contacts. I used to use it on everything , but discussions here and elsewhere have led me to rely on copper paste. Others like the silver.

Rotating nipples belong on the "Hooters Thread." My regulator don't rotate neither, but it still doesn't mean the regulator's gone up. So far, no one has a bad fuel pressure regulator.

Yes, those are the two relays that are most taxed. Yet, the FI relay runs power to the fuel pump and does stay quite hot. The OMRONs are still keeping my Sport quite happy . . . Besides that, of course, are the fuse issues . . .

I keep finding that the most consistent way to avoid the 3000 RPM burps is to ride at 4200 . . .

Perhaps blocked airflow. Check the air filter and be sure the intake is not blocked. Some airboxes have been modified by opening the lid and the protective film on the underside of the tank can drop down blocking flow.