dlaing

I still like the POWER part about it The dyno charts are proof that the PCIII *IS* about Power! But I agree that it is MORE about TUNING, Proper Mixture, and Power EVERYwhere! Maybe you are not allowed to make claims like it will give more power or make your bike last longer, but the dyno proved to me that I got more power, and was no longer producing conditions where the bike was dangerously lean AND rich. 100% throttle pulls tell me my top speed is going to higher, so it is not completely worthless. Most importantly, a bike after the tuning link feels like it is much more properly tuned compared to a properly tuned stock fuel setup. It makes the bike feel like it SHOULD. I think that is what you mean when you say it is not about power even if power is part of the benefit.

I tried it and my Odo and Trip Meters were in synch. The only sad news is I ran it against mileage markers and was off by about 6%. So my 36 MPG (US) that day was really about 34 MPG Which means that when I commute, the 33-32 MPG may actually be as low as 31-30 MPG.

It looks like a couple of Grisos to me

A Great Service indeed! Reading Carl's schematic makes life so much easier. And his website is Awesome! Carl is a true Guzzi Hero!

I think Carl updated that a while ago, see the August 2004 diagram. http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif But maybe that is a clue! And for whatever reason Carl has the 5 Amp fuse protecting the fuel pump, etc.

Completely lidless is LOUD. I suspect that if the area of the holes is equal to or larger than the area of the Wide Open Throttle Bodies, you are gonna be doing better than the stock snorkles. Throttle bodies are roughly (2) 4cm holes or if we use geometry Area = 3.14 X radius squared, so Area = 3.14 X 4 X 2 = 25.12 square cm or a little less than ten square inches...Not sure how to figure that into drill holes, but maybe about 60 or 70 half inch drill holes...It is late, my math is probably all bad... Bigger Snorkles may be a better alternative.

Here is my rant on the relays: http://www.guzzitech.com/RelayFailures-David_L.html You can get a GEI relay here http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm The GEI is rated for more Amps than any other relay that fits our relay sockets, and the one that I used to replace my Bosch relays that were failing frequently, has lasted well over a year. I frequently ride with the highbeam flasher held down with the low beam on. This puts a stress on the relay, but the GEI has endured my abuse. Also blasting the horn puts a strain on it, but I don't use my horn very often. The GEI is made in China, so some prefer not to buy it. If you do not buy the GEI, than in my opinion you should install seperate headlight relays(this has the added benefit of brightening your headlights). You can find other relay options here http://www.guzzitech.com/Relays.html Welcome to the board!

I don't know about pics. FWIW Carl's site has wiring diagrams and links to manuals: http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/ http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...4_V11_sport.gif For relays http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm But you could also find other cross refs at http://www.guzzitech.com/ or if you search the Discussions here.

No, but he helped a Protestant get elected over a Catholic and he was a Hitler youth and right now the best bet for nomination to exalted anti-Christ. Sorry about changing the topic and defaming some people's unconditional love, but this is just too important to let slide. I am not Catholic, but I have a right to bitch. Thanks for the soap box.

For you Quat-D owners with PCIIIs, here is the tuning link map that I had for my Quat-D when I had a Quat D. 0 2 5 10 20 40 60 80 100 500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1500 0 26 23 14 27 11 17 20 20 2000 0 0 17 0 5 -3 -2 -12 2 2500 0 0 15 17 -2 2 9 3 17 3000 0 0 0 20 1 17 15 21 29 3500 0 0 0 11 5 3 15 11 15 4000 0 0 0 17 7 1 14 22 24 4500 0 0 0 18 13 4 9 15 4 5000 0 0 0 18 20 4 -3 -6 -1 5500 0 0 0 0 24 1 -6 -7 -4 6000 0 0 0 0 0 1 -8 -6 -7 7000 0 0 0 0 0 -2 -2 -13 -10 8000 0 0 0 0 0 0 -3 -14 -17 NOTES: It was the original Quat-D I have the open airbox. They probed the muffler, not the headers. My TPS voltage may be low. My valves are set to 0.15/0.20mm. I still had some pinging around 5000RPMs and 60-100% throttle. If you use this map I would cut all the negative numbers in half, just to make sure that you are not running too lean. Perhaps the same should be done to the positive numbers to make sure you do not run too rich. I am pretty sure my map will match Frankie's bike better than V50Man's. If you can get to a tuning link center, don't hesitate. It is worth it, especially with the individual cylinder tuning. EDIT May 30, 2005 Today I FINALLY checked my TPS after 3.5 years of ownership and it was not as low as I had been lead to believe...170 mV (with linkage disconnected, engine off) At 1050 rpm idle it is about 400mV (It was probably lower when I had the QuatDs...I remember having the air bypass open more before,(especially the right TB) which would have given me an even lower mV reading at idle) So anyway, if you go with my map, set the TPS to 170 mV, the valves to 0.15/0.20mm, and the air-bypass to 2 or 3 turns out, and forget about the 400mV at idle reading...yours should be less than that, unless you like a fast idle. But if you are going to dyno tune the map, set it the recommended way, whatever that is. Probably 150mV, 0.15/0.20mm, and 0.5 turns on the air bypass screw or whatever it takes to get the CO right...

Here is a cross link to the thread that introduces V50Man's badder than bad-@ssed sounding sound file. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5205&hl= Or if you want to go directly to the sound file: http://worldstormartslab.com/dropbox/QUAT-D/

Wow! I'll bet that sucker is LOUD! I kinda like the sound of Frankie's anemic beauty more. But for monstrous power, I am sure the unrestricted QuatD is what I would want.

The only time I have ever pulled off a nose wheelie like that is on a bicycle. I would be even more impressed if some could pull off a nose wheelie with a 180 on a V11 Le Mans!

People who ride like that are dumbasses and should have their hospitalized bodies turned into living body part repositories so that the victims of the accidents that they cause can have fresh organs But nice bike

Hi Carl, Any luck with that ECU swap?

Rossi and the Yamaha's were awesome. It looks to me like the Honda is no longer a superior machine. While Rossi got all the praise, Hats off to Edwards and Gibernau who were also setting track records that day. While Rossi got the record and the checkered flag on the last lap Gibernau kept right up with him! And I could see no evidence that Gibernau's bike had a more powerful engine, if anything Rossi was hitting the straights faster! Hats off to Yamaha engineers. Now if Guzzi would just bring a V8 racer into production...

His sound excellent. Maybe it is the microphone but Frankie's sounds much better than the recording I made when I had a Quat-D...man I miss that muffler. It was nice to hear slowpoke's muffler a couple weeks ago. I should do a sound check on my stock muffler for comparison... And then the Mistrals... Here is the original QuatD http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/quatd.mov It sounds much less tinny in person. One thing that I think Quat-D owners can attest to is that the riders proximity to the muffler amplifies the experience. Frankie, have you dyno'd the bike with the Quat-D? I would bet you anything that doing the tuning-link with individual cylinder tuning would make a huge difference. Can't wait for Sound files, V50Man!

Yah, and here I am with my 12inch biceps and 40+inch waist calling him obese. I guess those charts don't fit every body type. How fat you are around the waist line is much more relevant for health than your weight. Sorry that bike has been a lemon. If I NEEDED a more reliable bike I don't know what I would do. My Guzzis have outlasted my Hondas, so I don't have much faith in Honda. Maybe a two valve beemer is the way to go. But I'll bet if you set up the suspension,replace the tires, the bearings, the hose, the valves, the gear return spring and bushing, port the head, dynotune it, and stay religious about maintainance, the bike could still suit your needs.

Stadts the shizzle! LeMans was amazing! Thanks Stadt!

It has always been tough. And if manufacturers offer volume discounts than the little guy is out of luck. I kind of like the trend of Cycle Gear stores where they use their volume discounts to bring us good prices and you can go in and unlike the web you can go in and try stuff on. But still they don't always carry what we need. The local Guzzi store can't compete for most parts and they don't move the parts quickly enough to stock them. So, they end up ordering it mail order anyhow! I don't know if you have checked out cycleport in Escondido, http://www.motoport.com/ great Kevlar and Nylon products! But lousy selection of boots. Their Kevlar/nylon blend mesh pants and jackets offer full air with abrasion resistance that they say is better than leather. Maybe, maybe not. But as I understand it is much stronger than the nylon mesh. Machine washing it is probably a bad idea as the kevlar can beat the nylon to shreads. I wish they would make boots of the stuff! They do carry boots, but not will ventlated.

Buying in person is smart. I have tried on dozens of top rated boots and they pinch me here and there and here and there...Good Grief! A good fit is hard to find, and even one model and size may not fit the same. You might try http://www.chaparral-racing.com/ in Riverside. I hate the place, but the selection is hard to beat. I picked up my Sidi Sympatex there. Also, a great place to shop for helmets.

er-um, we are friends right? honesty is important, right? According to most charts on the internet, you are on the low end of obese, and your ideal weight is below 170lbs...now of course I don't know if all your bones are reinforced with tungsten steel and body types vary...but for most body types, 180lbs would be fine for your height, unless you have a career modelling for the same magazines as TX Redneck. FWIW I weigh 210+ and the only shakes I get now are at Dairy Queen

Lex and Mike Stewart weigh about the same as you and they posted their figures somewhere on this forum. I think Mike was at 500 lbs rear and 1.0 KG front. And Lex was something like 550 lbs rear and 1.05 or 1.1 KG front. This is from distant memory so do a search for the right figures before you shell out money. Personally I would go with Mike's lower numbers because it is still a huge improvement over stock...and it will not be too stiff.

To me, a fair price would be $1000, I'll take Amtrack up tomorrow to pick it up but to anyone else the bike is a deal at $6000(those who found better or worse deals will argue, but look around at the advertised prices) But please don't sell it. I had a Conti on the rear that would cause the early signs of headshake at 80MPH, I followed racerx' setup guide on guzzitech and then it would not feel unsettled until 100MPH. That tire is long gone, and now the bike feels steady up to 138veglias and probably higher, with the steering damper dialed out. Maybe you could get an Ohlins steering damper. It is more of a bandaid, to a problem that needs surgery, but it would help. People on the list rave that they are so much better than the Bitubo. Yah, if I hit a section where they longitudilly (spelling?) trowled the asphalt or there are raingrooves, the bike will become unnervy regardless of speed, but that is true with any bike if it finds the wrong rhythm.

Nothing like Au Naturelle to keep it upright