dlaing

It might be doable if he claims dry weight. He just has to go from a claimed dry weight of 221 kg down to 185 kg. Not a small feat, but much more reasonable than dropping from ~240kg down to 185kg.

I could not see the part numbers, but I found them in Wick's post in this thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=8229&hl= Part numbers are N0520.1AD and N0521.1AD There are also photos in that thread by Britchelee http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=5378 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=5379

I thought they just spent millions revamping Laguna to make it better for motoGP??? Indianapolis has only four turns and none are very exciting. This sport could get as boring as NASCAR pretty fast. I imagine they could make S sections in the straights or route the bikes through the infield. http://www.indy500.com/modules/images/trac...map-500-lrg.jpg

Yes. But be sure to close off the hoses going to the intake manifolds, otherwise they will suck in too much air and you would have a performance problem or worse. Some people cap off the nipples coming from the intake manifolds and some run a hose from one nipple to the other.

You might checkout this setup guide http://www.guzzitech.com/ScuraSusp-TE.html And this person kindly posted the Guzzi Scura Ohlins documentation. http://ryuv11.free.fr/V11/scuraohlins/scuraohlins.htm There should be an allen bolt adjuster near the axle. Maybe on the opposite side of a standard Ohlins fork. This is image is from that site

docc, thanks for taking your complaint to us rather than back stabbing us with anonymous complaints to jimbemotumbo, who has not posted since October. I really wanted to argue with Ratchet about the dangerous cause of BFG's mishap, that could occur again from a careless bodge job, but to make you, Nogbad, and others happy, I am done with this thread.

The correct order, in order of most likely to cause brakes overheating, IMHO is 1. an accumulation of brake dust/road grunge betwixt brake piston and caliper. 2. failure for master piston to return due any of the following: foot resting on lever, restrictive dust boot, corroded rod, grunged seal, 1 Kg brake lever, sub zero clearance, brake lever stuck on exhaust pipe, etc. edit here is an example http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=brake+groan 3. water in the brake fluid 4. air in the brake fluid 5. piss in the brake fluid 5. brake line resting on or very near exhaust. 6. Caliper falling off edit here is an example http://www.guzzitech.com/V11S-BrakeLosspic-Patrick.html 7. edit Not sure about this one, but I imagine wheel bearing failure could cause brake problems. Here is a thread about that possibility http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=1162&st=15 BFG's problem was almost surely caused by #2, from the first bodge reducing freeplay to less than zero. As mentioned in post 36, with photographic EVIDENCE.

We'd fight over you, but you are not our type. And by the way, what is wrong with Tom and Jerry?

Shilelagh, the "peacekeeper" for bodgers who can't get their hands on guns!

I like the old docc better.

I don't know what to say. I'd say sorry, but I am not really very sorry. I'd take it somewhere else, but Nutz and Bolts is where Ratchet and I thrive. I kind of understand because I find the arguments frustrating too. But I find it kind of amazing that we are being told to leave the forum when we are not braking forum rules, not discussing politics, and we are typing our fingers to the bone trying to solve technical problems. By the way, I think I nailed BFGs problem on the head (But it took a second swing of the hammer) Brake failure is not worth fighting over? Okay, from now on I'll just tell Ratchet he is right.

1. Sorry I thought we were taking about BF's Girder 2. Nog, we luv yah dude. 3. I estimate 2#, but why beat a dead horse 4. ibid 5. ibid 6. gotta go watch the fire works! Happy Independence Day! Bring back Constitutional Rule!

What aren't you happy that I agreed that if it weighed 2 oz you would be correct?!? I suppose I could add weights and drive over a bumpy road with someone watching my brake light. You would think that if BFG made the girder out of 24 ounce claw hammer, that this would be a problem, right? How about a 16 ounce hammer? How about an 8 ounce hammer? I really don't know for sure what the cutoff point would be. With your superior knowledge of physics, please tell me what minimum weight would have to be added to the toe to activate the brakes on a bumpy road... We know for sure a two pound sledge would activate it. Regardless of the complex physics involved in the bumps, what if the stiction on the master combines with the mass of the girder? I am sure the mass of the girder would increase the risk of the stiction on the dirty master keeping the brakes activated. Or is that another one of you impossibilities?

Be nice or we'll start posting pictures of Moto Mussolinis

Thanks Dan That is informative and reassuring. Still after hearing so many problems, I will try to make a more regular habit of making sure it does not get hot. Keeping an eye on pad thickness is critical as the pads can wear quickly.

Ygahd! that is some heavy shite As it turns out the calipers toasted before the girder bodge, so it may be a lost issue. First of all I would estimate the weight of his girder at the toe pressure point to be well over 2 ounces. Without knowing it, this argument is probably a waste of time. But I guess we could go through the possibilites I estimate that the weight at the toe pressure point is about 7 ounces. I suspect it POSSIBLY could be as high as 12 ounces, or, POSSIBLY as low as your suggested 2ounces, in which case I would agree that you are correct. G-Force? OK, we have got an estimate of a known force that needs to be overcome, 2lbs. To my estimate it could take as little as 1.5 lbs to cause drag, but let us go with 2lbs to simplify. Assuming I am correct that this is equivalent to an 8 oz hammer bouncing up and down with your finger underneath, can you really measure the impact of the hammer in G-Force? G-Force is 9.8 m/s². Whether or not 8 oz moves 32 oz is not determined by acceleration, it is determined by momentum, but of course acceleration is relevant. I can't figure out the math for this, but I did find that if I dropped a spark plug socket on top of the brake lever from somewhere around 18-24 inches it appeared to deflect the lever enough to activate the brake enough to cause friction. The sparkplug socket might way 4 ounces, does that mean it impacts with 8Gs from only falling ~20 inches? Can the bouncing girder have that much momentum? I don't know, but I would not want to find out with a seized up rear end. Add GuzziJack's spring to BFG's girder and I think BFG will be able to live long and keep us informed of the time for many years to come.

I put a 2# weight on the lever and that closed the piston 1/10 of an inch beyond the force of the brake lever, and I could start to feel the increased force to roll the bike around. I am sure some friction was occurring before the 1/10 inch. I'd be curious how far it needs to go in before the piston is closed, my guess is starts closing at a little more than 1/14 inch and fully closed at about 1/12 inch. I guess I am the only one that thinks that that girder could get enough rhythmic momentum on a bumpy road to close it that much. Anyway it does not matter, as I am sure BFG replaced it. For the rest of us, I have had some concern that the spring is not robust enough. I don't like the fact that the weight of the lever pushes the piston towards brake failure. But more importantly, I don't like that the spring is so light that friction at the piston or on the dust seal of that the rod goes through can over-power the force of the spring. Personally I would double the rate of the spring if knew how. GuzziJack's solution appears to be an excellent one BAA I missed reading it....I'll get back to you... Yes one kilo is more than 2 pounds But the force of 2 pounds on the tip of foot lever is greater than the force of a kilogram spread out over BFG's Bodgeful Fulcrumous Girdoid. ...back to reading the rest of post 26 ....

After the first time I bled the brakes and cleaned mine, I did that test and they were warm, about body temperature, maybe a feverish body temperature. I periodically check to make sure they don't get hot, and so far it has not gotten worse, and the brake groan never returned, so I did not worry. I guess I need to pop the pistons all the way out so I can clean the seals. I imagine if they don't reach body temperature the pads should go many more miles Thanks Ratchet, I thought it was normal for the rotor to be above room temperature, but now I know a more detailed cleaning is in order, and if that does bring down the fever 20 degrees, a new caliper, possibly one with available seal and piston kits

I didn't want to hit you up for it if you had already given it away. Besides, my unsealed Radio Shack switch keeps going and going, and the forecast calls for less than a cm of rain over the next 3 months But yes, next time we meet, I will be sure to ask you for it.

That is a surprise! The specifications would lead one to think the BMW a clear winner, in all categories except character. BMW claimed 107 horsepower at 7,500 rpm and 85 lb-ft of torque at 6,000 rpm, at the crank. estimated 97.3 hp at 7,900 rpm with 74.4 lb-ft torque at 6,400 rpm, at the rear wheel under 500lbs with full tank of gas. ABS igniton immobilizer options traction control heated grips electronic suspension control tire pressure control anti-theft center stand http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/Article_Page...?ArticleID=3498 437# dry weight 109HP rating 74.7 http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/bmw_r1200r_2007.php MG Guzzi claims 93.9 horsepower and 73.8 lb-ft of torque options ABS http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/Article_Page...?ArticleID=3837 505# dry weight 95HP rating 67.1 http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/moto_guzz..._sport_2007.php

Wait a minute! Did the melt down occur before or after the fracture of the lever? If after, it certainly could have been the result of a bent master cylinder rod or the massive appendage Good Heavens! Did you adjust the freeplay after all the duct tape and zip ties!??!

A)shhhhhhh (Culinary Institute of America...) B)But I play a doctor on TV (sorry I meant bump, not bum) C)I thought you were Valerie Plame's husband Joe (Depleted Uranium Girder) Wilson. Sorry about the mistaken identity. (I feel almost as stupid as a Scooter) What time is it? Time to get your posts in the right chronological order!!!! so I don't make an arse of meself

Heck I don't know. I have never ridden a telelever beemer. The pre-telelever Beemers that I have ridden seemed very stable, near to the point of boring. But sitting on the telelever Beemer, they have a riding position that I find more stable feeling. I find the V11 to be a combination of top heavy and flickable that would eat non-Ohlins equipped Beemers for supper on the race track. I can only imagine the Beemer being slower handling and more stable in all aspects other than wallowing from being under-sprung and lacking rebound damping. But that type of wallowing is a different type of instability than the nervousness that a V11 can have. This review and others that I have read prior to buying the Guzzi led me to believe the BMW was more stable Of course these reviewers are often full of it. After all, we know that cranking the steerin damper down tight can ruin the handling. IMHO a poorly set up V11 can be a bad thing. I fully agree that a V11 can be more stable than your average BMW, but I don't think it is the nature of the Guzzi as it comes off the showroom floor, unless your dealer is extraordinary and drops the forks in the triples, sets the sag, etc.

Bringing it to a tech is an excellent idea. Something could be wrong with what others suggested, or maybe the steering damper. The bikes you are comparing it to are more stable, but the V11 should NOT be unstable. You might want to set the ergonomics up more like the california, with higher, wider handlebars.

I think we all agree that a rear brake failure can be dangerous. But I disagree that you'd be likely to notice the dragging before bad stuff happens.