Molly

So, it's all back together. The drive shaft now 'telescopes' like it should (it was solid!), the needle bearings in the right side of the bevel box actually move (they too were utterly corroded to a single mass), and everything else has had a good clean and grease. The old drive shaft bolts were munted and I think that's because the shaft wasn't moving. Could be my imagination but gear changes seemed smoother. More snick-snick rather than clunk-clunk. Thanks for your help along the way with this. Much appreciated, gents.

LOL. I'll put this one up there with the time I demolished a 'stuck' Harley fuel cap that turned out to be left hand thread... Thanks guys. Bit premature in my posting there.

Erm.... Should this chap be playing a part? It was hiding in plain sight...

Reassembling the rear end. Factory manual says 120nm on the torque values page and 28÷30nm in the wheel parts section. Whatever that means... Thing is, the wheel is solid - won't rotate - long before 120nm suggesting to me that there's a spacer missing as I must be applying lateral force to the bearings. Any advice appreciated. 2001 Greenie.

Thanks Docc. I'll look at all that. This one is now replaced.

Certainly nobody had taken the trouble to grease it despite assurances. And the outer needle bearing in the bevel drive too hadn't been checked because it too was rusted-up. Otherwise the bike seems good.

Naaa. It was perfectly safe. No spring-loaded tension set to explode across the garage or anythinglike that. Biggest risk was a bollocking from the Mrs for spending the entire weekend in the garage. ;-)

It's a different one. I took the first out to NZ (as a family we alternate between there and the Isle of Man). This one was bought a year ago from a dealership in Wales based on photos and a video. It was supposed to have been fully serviced but clearly wasn't. I'd only done about 700 miles on it but being a year figured it was time for annual maintenance. Salt air could be an issue as I'm on the coast but my garage is dry and warm (contains the house heating system) and my other bikes show no corrosion. The outer surface has cleaned-up well on the stainless wheel. The splines are in good condition. As I said I suspect the grease takes the path of least resistance so rather than being forced down the splines it escapes through the hole beneath the UJ.

Here's the thing. The splines were clean but dry. Because there's a small hole (appears like the plug simply hasn't been welded-up properly - not an engineered hole) grease seemed to be stuck at one end and would escape rather than find its way along tge splines. Path of least resistance I suppose.

Celebratory beer... Had to look a the manual's drawing to appreciate how releasing fluid would find its way to the splines. Removed the grease nipple and put loads of WD40 in that way. Reassembled my contraption, heated the heck out of it, and it finally let go.

Same with mine. There's a vent of some description so no pressure is possible. Thanks for your help with this guys.

Same with mine. There's a vent of some description so no pressure is possible. Thanks for your help with this guys.

Same with mine. There's a vent of some description so no pressure is possible. Thanks for your help with this guys.

Thanks to you too Phil. I'm heating with a paint stripping gun. Might have to get a butane torch.

Thanks Docc. I'm leaving it overnight to see if there's any movement. I'm left wondering how I didn't notice this when riding...

I think this is stuck....

Just in from the garage. No way I can get those two shaft halves separated whilst it's stuck in the swingarm. Decided to disassemble a UJ. It wasn't keen.... Don't seem to be able to press one side in far enough for the cap on the other side to protrude sufficiently to get a grip on it. It's battling me but that's OK. Any tips on taking apart the UJ. Haven't done it before but I've watched a ten minute YouTube video.. ;-)

LOL. I can see I'm treading for the first time down a well-worn path. The swingarm itself needs a good clean-up. The powder coat is flaking all over the place. I guess I'll get it blasted and recoated. I've a 2000 Cali arriving next week too so there'll no doubt be more to do there. I just want to retire and spend all day on this stuff but my Mrs said something about bills....

Thanks Docc. I had the same with a BMW drive shaft last year. Was a pig to get it to release but got there in the end. This started-out with me just wanting to grease the front UJ. Next thing I've half the bike on my bench and am busy getting parts vapor blasted and changing bearings. I don't mind. It all needed doing and we're heading into winter so it's a good time to be doing it. Thanks again.

I now have my swingarm on the bench but I'm struggling to separate the drive shaft halves so as to remove it. I imagined the two halves would telescope easily in and out of each other but not so. Have I misunderstood something here? Any advice appreciated. Apologies if this has been previously covered. I did look but unsuccessfully.

That's rather nicely put. I'm presently in the Isle of Man which has many parallels with the north of the UK. History at every turn, and picture-postcard views in every direction. The natives are friendly too. Tourism plays a diminishing part in the economy. It's certainly not like it was in George Formby's day. So we survive by helping the super-rich stay that way, and housing most of the UK's online gambling companies...

Thanks again. I used the BMW details when I sourced this Fuelmiser one. Further investigation revealed two other ones of the same spec (AC Delco and, erm, sorry, it escapes me). Anyway, all being well, there should be a good number of alternatives. Will let you know how things work out.

Don't have the Fuelmiser specs to hand but cross-referenced with the AC Delco equivalent (EP102AU). This is 2.4 LMP @ 200 KPA, 3.6 amps, max pressure 700, max amps 9. Doesn't give bar. It's frustrating all this. The old pump is fine but for a hairline crack in the plastic inlet tube. Thanks for your help so far. I may return this one and keep looking.

Using the advice already given here I’ve bought a replacement fuel pump for my 2000 V11. The info I have is that the stock one is 3.0 bar (43.5psi) and 1.6 litres per minute. The generic replacement I have (Fuelmiser FPE240) is rated at 2.9 litres per minute @ 200 kpa. I need to know if this is OK to use (think it’s based on the one for the 1991 BMW 318 IC)? Many thanks in advance. It's much appreciated.