OldButNotDead
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Posts posted by OldButNotDead
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Condolences; seems a stern punishment for a single incident.
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Well documented issue: SPEEDO CABLE
I've found Roy's suggestion to be effective (and much cheaper than the OEM alternative).
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Just had my tank Caswell-coated by a local Ducati shop. They've done more than a few Duc tanks with reportedly good success.
My tank was left to dry about three months before being brought in, and it had returned to near its original size. They had it media blasted and then rinsed it out thoroughly with a solvent (I don't know which). It got two coats of the Caswell epoxy and I just got it back on the bike.
Time will tell, but for now, I'm just stoked to be riding again...
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I tried setting up my V11 way back when, and eventually brought it to a suspension specialist. There's some art and feel that I didn't get from how-to guides.
That said, the source I like best for diy suspension info is: Racetech
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...so remember to shake the bottles before you use them to get the additives.
Cheers
Roy
Some of us who are not detail oriented appreciate those of us who are
Now you just need to reinvent Maxwell's demon to get the water out of the engine.
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It must be water. Did you ride short trips not heating the engine sufficiently?
My vote too. Mayo in the bike or car = oil + water emulsion. I lived in Vancouver for a while and seem to remember a bit of dampness in the air on occasion....
I haven't noticed it in unopened oil, but can't say I've looked all that carefully; maybe direct this ques to the manufacturer?
I'm going to predict you will find a way to fix this with an ingenious wiring modification
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Damn it's nice being spoon fed; thank you. I just dug out my CA schematic and noticed it's for a 1999 model. My 2003ish owner's manual tells the other, less happy story.
Sorry if I've missed this, but is the solution a fused hotwire to pin 30 on the starter relay?
I occasionally need to thumb the start switch more than once, and none of my attempts to rejuvenate switches/contacts/starter have cured it.
Yes, you can power it up from a new fuse or re-wire fuse 3 from a hot.
Here's a mod for a 2000 Jackal
On my list for such time as the garage warms up. When it comes to the line between "inspired" and "unhelpful variability", Italian design often stumps me. 
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Update Rant:
I looked at all Carl's drawings for 2000, 2002, Every one of the solenoids is wired through the ignition switch, I don't know what Luigi was
at the time but obviously he didn't realize that the starter solenoid would like to pull about 50 Amps for the split second it takes to pull in.Damn it's nice being spoon fed; thank you. I just dug out my CA schematic and noticed it's for a 1999 model. My 2003ish owner's manual tells the other, less happy story.
Sorry if I've missed this, but is the solution a fused hotwire to pin 30 on the starter relay?
I occasionally need to thumb the start switch more than once, and none of my attempts to rejuvenate switches/contacts/starter have cured it.
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This topic came up recently and that thread is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16928&view=findpost&p=181275
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What was the purpose of putting the sealer in the tank in the 1st place? Was the fuel tank leaking ? The plastic tank was (and is ) probably too "slick" for the sealer to stick to the tank.
I've heard of this being done (on plastic Ducati tanks?) to prevent the tank from absorbing EtOH and swelling. Apparently, left dry, tanks will shrink back to their original size after a few weeks and can be coated. I was planning to do this over the winter, but now ???
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I am using the GEI relays but hadn't considered the relay to be a problem since the starter gear is engaging the flywheel. Am I wrong there?
When I took the solenoid apart last year it was in good shape. I cleaned it up and added a slight bit of grease on the walls of the tube to prevent rust. It seems to me that it's working fine before & after I went in there. I cleaned, greased and tightened all electrical connections on the starter when I reinstalled it and the symptoms didn't change.
I only popped a fuse once by holding down the starter button when the engine wouldn't turn over. After that never held the button down beyond 4 seconds when it was refusing to turn over for fear of popping another fuse.
A few years ago I had a 30 year old garden tractor starter rebuilt for $75 when I couldn't find a new replacement which cost about $120. The rebuilt starter worked OK but not great for about a year then died again. I bought a new one and it worked MUCH better than the old one ever did. Based on that experience I'm more inclined to spend a little extra money for a new unit over a rebuild.
OBND, did you go with the Valeo or EnDuralast unit from EME?
Valeo. My experience was similar to yours, minus the blowing fuse. After the new one went in, I took the old one apart, but couldn't find anything wrong with it.
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There are some snippets of truth here but many errors.
I believe I have just learned the secret to life. Thank you Cliff.
I've installed a starter from EME; worked for me
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I changed the oil in my forks
Dave, the guy in the local shop recommended transmission fluid which was cheaper than the fork oil he had in stock.
The manual says add 400mL (it doesn't actually say "In each leg") but I found the right fork seemed to be fairly full, just a couple of inches from top with no weight on, If I pushed the fork up it would run out. I spoke to Dave and he assured me 400 sounds about right for an inverted fork.
There is very little travel with a sudden stop and the ride seems a bit rough.
Also by the time I had spilt a bit and generally made a mess when I tipped the old oil back into the bottle I ended up with about 600mL total
I am tempted to suck some back out, is there a level I should have it at e.g. XX mm from top?
Can I do any harm by having the level a bit low?
Thanks
Roy
Just noticed that it's been 2 years since I changed my fork oil. Everyone's taste is different, but afte upgrading to 0.95 kg springs (I'm ~165lbs), I've been happiest using 7.5 wt oil and a 100mm air gap.
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It's really tricky troubleshooting from here but thinking about it you say " If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on"
I would try first to figure out why the oil and alternator lights don't come on until you press the horn button. It seems to me the horn circuit is providing the 12V that should be provided from Fuse 5, the headlight circuit.
Tell us a bit more about the horn relay you used, it wouldn't by any chance be a 3 wire type or you have a regular one wired with 3 wires would it?
I'm thinking that with the key off you are powering up one end of the coil from your "Hot Wire", the other end is connected to the horn button (where the horns originally connected). When you push the button the power flows from your back through the relay coil to ground through some of the other loads on Fuse F5 for example the headlight filament.
Actually I would be checking for a broken Red/Black wire between the large plug at right front of tank and the idiot light cluster, perhaps where it flexes with steering, I know for sure there are several spots where other wires are spliced into it.
From memory the wire runs up the right hand side (throttle side) a wire splices into it and goes to the plug on left hand side plug
Check the plug and socket for corrosion also
Appreciate the input Roy; was hoping you'd show up....
Years ago I put in a std 5-pole (30A?) automotive relay with a fused hot wire direct from the battery. Don't recall all details of how it's wired, but should know shortly.
I pulled the tank of this morning, and so far have checked that the ignition switch is working properly. Will print your questions and take them out to the garage. I sure hope Carl Allison accumulates some good karma every time I unroll his blessed diagram !
EVENING EDIT: not sure if I should be embarrassed or angry. I assumed that all these 4 (or 5) prong relays are standard the world over. I FINALLY looked at the side of the (Hella) relay I popped in to "repair" my horns. Turns out, though the terminals are numbered the same, their positions are swapped.
WTF?thanks for listening! I guess the upside is that I swapped out the oil breather hose while I was in there....
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I recently noticed my horns not working. I’d run a hot wire and relay to drive these a few years ago, so guessed the relay went bad. Swapped it out today, and still no horns, but some twilight zone stuff I’m at a loss to understand.
With the ignition key in LOCK or OFF, a press of the horn button causes the horn relay to click. No horns, so I’m thinking I will need to check wiring between the relay and the horns. BUT…why is the relay (driven off the original horn wire) even being activated with the key in the LOCK or OFF positions??
Now it gets weirder. If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on.
Otherwise, the bike seems to function normally. The last electrical work I’ve done was to swap some bayonet-style lamp holders into the instrument cluster.
Any takers?
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I never thought of that, yes I did wash it down with the hose a couple of weeks ago, it's probably full of water. I will pull it off tonight. I assume it's held in place by the tank fitting.
Just ignore me next time I ask a stupid question.
Cheers
Roy
It's a kind of press fit; be gentle as it's possible to rip the anchors out of the pad.
I'm pretty sure I had the same "stupid" question some years back and eventually stumbled onto this *feature* accidentally. Living my life by tenacity or stupidity: at this point I'm rarely able to differentiate.
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My tank has a fat vinyl pad inset into its top. It acts to trap water that vibration + wind can dislodge.
Sounds like it's only a possibility if you wash this thing.
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That's 4 against one (me) so far so I'll take that you all win, the nipple must exist....
Probably all I need to know is the easiest way to access it. I don't have a bike lift or stand so rather not get the rear wheeel off let alone the swingarm.
Chris (galaxiid)
The numbers are less compelling than the integrated experience.
I suggest: get a stand, pull the wheel, grease the nipple. It's a head-scratcher even with the wheel off, but can be done. For more ideas, check this thread from the Refersence Section > How to... GREASY NIPS
You will need a stand for servicing this bike. You will need to service this bike if you wish it to remain roadworthy. Have fun !
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I am not getting as much response as I thought.
Please give your comments, good, bad or ugly
Freaking AWESOME?
Exactly what I imagined myself doing, but was too bloody lazy?
A good deed that will in all probability not go unpunished?
Deserving of at least a few pints?
Not as good as it could be, since I will need to print and laminate it myself?
Cheers!
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the electric petcocks seem to have a very bad reputation; got one of those?
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Ready to let go of my Quat-D Ex-Box exhuast system. I had purchased this from RossoPuro for my 2003 V11 Sport; I think it will fit all V11 variants, but it's up to you to determine this for sure. Was ~$1000 new, about $1200 last time I looked, and don't think they are available any more. I'm looking for $450 + shippping.
I rode with this system for a year or two, and was happy with the weight savings and mass centralization, look,and sound. The system is complete (port adapters, headers, muffler, cat, springs) and fully functional. I got a local guy to make some mufflers with good ground clearance, so it's time for the Ex-Box to go.
It could use a little TLC. Before use, I would replace the rivets in the homemade block off plate, as it was beginning to rattle when the system last came off the bike. Alternatively, you could just weld it shut. If you're looking for pretty, some people ceramic coat these things,and that would bring this one back most of the way towards a new appearance. The damaged areas are shown in the photos.
Find some tuning data here: Link
Weight and fitment info here: Link
You Tube video (not mine)here:
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Lucky lucky bastard.
You can be on a chairlift at a pretty decent local area in 30 minutes from downtown - if you have that inclination.
Vij's (more upscale) or Vij's Rangoli (kind of bistro-like) should not be missed if you enjoy Indian food. There's a ton of other places as well, but the food he makes is unique and outstanding in my experience. They sell takeout from the bistro if you're short on time.
Tojo's is a well regarded (but pricey) place for sushi. I've had good experiences here as well.
Great fish & chips at Mr. Pickwick's on Denman downtown; Falafel King, also good, is just down the street.
Finally, Granville Market is a huge covered market with a pretty good variety of foodstuffs; vendors cater to both locals and tourists, and I'm salivating thinking about all the varieties of smoked salmon you will find in the fish stalls there.
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55F here today; lesson learned. 20W50 + near freezing = slow cranking. I'll finish this season out with a 5W40....
The warm weather sure did bring out the motorcycle fags...
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Don't know if you've got the same iteration as me, but mine's on the bench at the moment...here's a plate I riveted in place of the cat:
And here's the cat:
Hope that helps.
Horn Not Working
in Technical Topics
Posted
As already mentioned, Step 1 is to check if they are getting voltage - voltmeter or $5 test light will do.
When mine stopped working, I found it was the horns. On my OEMs there's a wee small adjustment screw on the back side - just needed a turn or two.