OldButNotDead
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Posts posted by OldButNotDead
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You have two "3"s.
It's lucky someone is on the ball
. You guys are great and I'm chuffed to be part of such a awesome community. No failure to lubricate here.I too think I might have two "3"s, and was wondering if I should be worrried. Sometimes I hear funny noises or experience an overwhelming desire to have one or both of my "3"s anodized, ceramic coated, or double-plugged. Alternatively, I was wondering if I could just replace my "3"s with an aftermarket "6"?
I wuve you guys!
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Sound like you're a bit down, but surely not out. My Italian wife endures numerous health problems, but you don't see me hacking her up to sell on Ebay. Sometimes she don't run so good, but she's always good to look at
. Unless she's angry. Then life is very very bad.
Gary is a standup guy
and can be trusted fully with your motor, if not your women. After seeing how both he and Pete jumped right in 
, I'm thinking there's a lot of heart in some of these ornery old farts . -
Yah, that a reasonable suggestion - I'll give it a go when next season rolls around...
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The outlet drags:
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I found my version of the Quat-D (2nd iteration I think) to be disappointing on the dyno (vs Stucchi + Ferracci cans). I get a similar top end, but lower peak torque. I end up mostly riding about 6k rpm, ~1k higher than I used to. I like the Ferracci sound better, though this thing does make an interesting noise.
I think the Ghezzi site shows the first iteration system. I believe these had a left-hand outlet, clamps, and were prone to cracking. Mine has a right-hand outlet, removable cat, and is held together with springs. The current version on the Quat-D site looks a bit different, so it may be a third generation.
Riding "performance" integrates more than just engine output. I mainly bought the Quat-D to improve ground clearance, and it does that extremely well in left-handers. Right handers, not as much. Still, it's significantly better than with the Ferracci (low) can. It's the outlet that scrapes, and I have considered whacking it off, though the dyno guy suggested that might affect performance. After individual cylinder mapping, delivery is pretty linear.
Despite lower peak torque (which I do miss), I haven't taken it off to date. I have considered a barter for a MG titanium system, but am not sure I can bring myself to do it. It looks so much better to my eye this way and cans would strike me as colostomy bags at this point.
Unfortunately, I can also provide feedback on the system's crash durability - we lowsided (on the outlet side) at Mid-Ohio in September. Very short ride on the pavement before sliding into the dirt. Pretty durable, some rash and dents where the header joins the box, but I'm hoping an expander will pop most of these out.
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I had a VERY upsetting Thanksgiving Day....
Man, this whole ordeal upset me more than I expected. I'm pretty tough, but this accident bothered me a lot last night....
To see that type accident and watch that young girl die right in front of me was too much. Geezzz.
I suppose I'll eventually get over this.
Sorry to hear this. Front row seats to this kind of event is upseting for all but the pathological.
Sure, it's possible to avoid the feelings by dissociating, but that's not toughness in my book. Toughness means you're willing to integrate and learn from the experience and feelings. You can get over it and be a better person/rider for it.
Drunk drivers suck. Back in the day, I ran over a yield sign after six Jack Daniels + chasers. I am eternally grateful it wasn't a person. There but for the grace of god go I.
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Thanks for the response & info. I think I'm now leaning toward Quat-D Ex Box system, if I can get it...
I got a later version of this muffer, for the same reason you are considering it. Consider this: leaning towards a Quat-D in a right-hander will leave you with the same problem you're seeking to avoid.
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OK..... I sniffed the exhaust tips again....
.....Am I being parinoid....If not, then whats up?
Umh...too much gas sniffing?
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The light works fine when grounded but the switch is not providing a good ground according to the multimeter. Any suggestions?
I was thinking about changing the trans oil as it is looking quite black.
DW
Cleaning the switch worked for me; some suggestions: HERE
Having a little cloth to plug the hole when the switch come out can be useful.
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The loosening top plate on the Quat box has been commented on before
I see that the sealing fibre in mine is now well blown out and the plate sits loose with loose rivets, exhaust blowing out through it onto back tyre. Should speed-up tyre warm-up. Ho hum.
What's anyone done for a longer lasting (permanent even) repair solution?
The big flat top of the box makes a superb frying pan, for the continuously leaking gearbox oil. Ho hum.
Still sounds great.
I dealt with this when removing the cat from mine. The main bit of "wisdom" I can relate is: do NOT bother to reattach this with aluminum rivets, no matter what their diameter; they will loosen with use. It took me ~ 3 tries to figure this out (fecking eejit)
. Online vendors of marine hardware can supply SS rivets that will do the job.I bought some "Ultra Seal" gasket HERE , cut it to size and used a punch in my handrill to make holes for the rivets. So far, so good.
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Just bought a new knox back protector from the local bike shop and was wondering if i could justify it, glad i did now after reading your post OBND.
Oh you can SO justify it when you're sliding down the track on your back thinking about how your wife was so worried that you wouldn't be coming home from your trackday that she broke down crying.
Sadly, my greatest joy comes from the fact that I did NOT have to tell my wife that I'm mangled. In fact, I'm so NOT mangled that I didn't feel the need to share the experience with her at all (nor should any of you). Those with non-riding, supportive, but scared-shitless-of-the-motorcycle spouses may understand.
The bike lost a Givi windscreen, both throttle cables, spark plug cap and plug, and the rear brake pedal. Some dents in the bottom of the header, scapes on the valve cover and head, no broken fins. Not so bad, just more expensive than it should be. I think I was careless, drifted too close to an edge and ended up with the rear tire on some crud or actually in the dirt. It lowsided when I pushed it over to move away from the edge. I came off onto the pavement and the bike spun off into the dirt.
Thanks to all with plug cap sources!
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Thanks for the good thoughts. I'm no angel and ride in jeans if I'm "just out for a toodle". So far I've been lucky. Shattered kneecap doesn't sound like fun, you have my condolences - how was that repaired? I'm grateful for the small mishaps that I get to call "learning experiences".
I'm looking to buy a spark plug cap (preferable red) from someone other than Guzzi and searched the archive, but couldn't find a reference. Anyone have the NGK # and a suggested source?
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Or even particularly maimed...
Here's an encouragement to those of you who don't wear adequate protective gear, or who doubt how much joy it can bring.
I had my first get-off at speed two days ago, and need to say
to the folks at Vanson, who made the garments I was wearing.After I low sided at ~50 mph, bodyslammed onto my backprotector and helmet, and then slid along on my back, I had time to reflect on how much I was enjoying these items and my perfed leather jacket and pants.
Another satified customer.
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I've come to a new appreciation for shipping and handling. Spent the better part of last Saturday looking ...
Now if I don't know exactly where to get something I just order it online. No fuss, no muss. No more chasing through the city on a precious day off finding nothing.
Rj
Amen. I finally came to the same place. The older I get, the more I value my time - I figure I'm worth at least $10 an hour.
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Try HERE
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Reading April 2006 "Cycle World", an article by Phil Schilling on the Moto Parilla, he states, "No Italian motorcycle would be authentic and complete without its Grand Quirk. For Ducati it's the desmodromic valve system. In the case of Parilla, it's the high-cam engine . . . "
And in the case of the V11 Moto Guzzi?
The Grand Quirk is the old guy sitting on it - he can't quit the silly machine, but struggles to explain why. Likewise, "flaws" make my Italian spouse compelling. Chemistry, love, hormones?
Definitely NOT boring. 
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Aesthetics aside I don't recall ever seeing a Quat D dyno chart that was as strong as a Stucchi crossover/aftermarket can chart. I think aftermarket cans with the stock crossover usually show better power than the Quat too. I'm going from memory here though, a good search might turn up different results.
Your memory matches my experience. Moving to the Quat-D from Stucci crossover/Ferracci cans meant significant loss of peak torque, though a similar top end. Both configurations were setup with custom Power Commander maps. Personally, I really like the clean look, but miss the midrange kick. I'm spending a lot more of my time at or above 6krpm as a result. Previously posted dyno appears in this thread: Quat-D vs Ferracci dyno runs
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While Nogger's suggestion is a possibiluty I have to say I think it unlikely in this case.
...CLIP...
given the circumstances where the problem occured my best guess is that either the friction material has started separating from the plates, one of the pates has torn it's centre out or the intermediate plate is warped...
Pete
DING DING...give that man a rubber chicken.
I'm posting to get this archived in case anyone else is silly enough to do this.I stopped in at Detroit Eurocycles after Keith and Jeff had opened it up - a nice big chunk had separated from one of the friction disks. If I can't find a slipper clutch, I may be forced into learning how to downshift properly
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Yes, Antonio, the sphincter-operated remote is the most popular option for the PCIII in the US.
I've heard this is also how much of our recent "foreign policy" has been formulated, not to mention implemented.
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I realize this topic has been covered to death, so I will admit my ignorance now!
I am ignorant.
At 5000 miles the Rossa Corsa is becoming a greater pleasure to ride. I am quite surprised how the engin "breaks in".
Anyway my pipes have been bluing, so I did a search on how best to clean them,
which led me to read that I may be running too rich.
This led me to the PC111.
I'm not really sure I want to add the PC111.
It seems like just another thing to go wrong and I am happy with the bikes performance.
I guess I just don't want to miss out on anything
What advantages will a dyno test give me?
What exactly does it do?
How is it different from what the PC111 does?
Who is Todd, the person often referenced in the PC111 discusasion?
Thanks in advance!!!!!
-john
Todd is the guy who rectifies your lack of PCIII knowledge and PCIII issue. See: http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII.html
No, you don't absolutely need it, but yes, you do absolutely want it.
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While Nogger's suggestion is a possibiluty I have to say I think it unlikely in this case. The usual scenario with the welded pushrod is on bikes with a cable operated clutch whhich has not had the arm adjusted. The situation for pre-loading the actuating system simply shouldn't exist with a hydraulic clutch and given the circumstances where the problem occured my best guess is that either the friction material has started separating from the plates, one of the pates has torn it's centre out or the intermediate plate is warped. Any-which-way I think you're going to have to go into the clutch for a looksee. Tedious and for a beginner time consuming but not particularly difficult! There' are probably instructions in a thread on this board somewhere otherwise we can puppy-walk you through it.
Pete
Hey Pete, thanks for the "learning opportunity", but finding time for this just isn't going to happen right now. I looked through some of your engine teardown docs - looks like it would be more involved than my old XS650 was. Dragging that lump down into the basement workshop was trouble enough.
I've switched my vote from warped intermediate plate to: I tore the center out of a friction plate. I'm going to try and stop by the shop while it's apart to get a better idea of the innards.
My latest theory is that I need to keep track of what gear I'm in. My V11 doesn't seem to like it when I downshift into first and drop the clutch at 70 mph .
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Here's my stab:
The clutch operating rod has welded itself to the spinning part inside, causing it to wear down, and now there is insufficient throw in the system to disengage the clutch completely.
Thanks Nog-
I've never been into a Guzzi engine and have little idea of how this clutch works. I found diagrams of the pressure, friction, and intermediate plates. I'm thinking that my squeezing the clutch lever pushes the pressure plate forward to allow the clutch to disengage, but I've got no idea of the bits involved that make that happen. Did I miss a diagram in the manual?
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I took my 2003 (02) V11 Naked out for it's annual trackday last weekend and maybe had a little too much fun
. After a couple of sessions, I found myself unable to shift out of first gear. Ahhha thought I, the shift return spring has finally let go (~9000 mi on bike).Nope. Gear selector seems to work OK when the motor's not running. Starts fine in neutral. When clicked into first gear, it pulls forward a bit, then stalls. Seems like the clutch isn't disengaging. Pulling in the clutch lever when running in neutral gives little of that rattle I'm used to hearing. I tried bleeding the hydraulic line, with no change.
I've searched a bit and found mention of loose rivets on the friction plates and warping of the intermediate plate. Anyone want to take a stab? It was a hot day and it's fair to say I wasn't at all easy on the clutch.
Off to the shop it goes. I'm guessing ~5-6 hours labor to swap what's not right? It sounds like none of the aftermarket plates are particularly heplful, but I'm wondering if anyone here has tried the intermediate plate modification described on guzzitech.dk?
Scura at Laguna Seca
in 24/7 V11
Posted
I can hear your cans scraping from here!