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Anders

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Posts posted by Anders

  1.  

     

    My 02 Lemans ran perfect, but after opening up the airbox, I decided to pun on an older serial PCIII. I have mistral pipes, an FBF x-over and modded airbox. Before mapping, it made a healthy 77 bhp, after mapping (and this was at 2600 ft elevation), it made nearly 85 bhp, and was the strongest running guzzi I have ever ridden, it wheelied very easy (roper sloppage plate installed) and got better mileage as well. Louie knows the guzzi's well, and really dialed it in. It still shows a dip, but it was so strong, you never noticed anything but horsepower and torque

     

     

    That looks really good.Is that with a K&N filter or stock paper filter?

     

    Uhh, that thread is 9 years old.

     

    He he,yes I know.I did a search and found this thread,and took a real longshot he would remember.Chanses are slim,I know.I'm just trying a bit too hard I guess to get all the information I can get on Stucchi vs Mistral x overs.

  2. My 02 Lemans ran perfect, but after opening up the airbox, I decided to pun on an older serial PCIII. I have mistral pipes, an FBF x-over and modded airbox. Before mapping, it made a healthy 77 bhp, after mapping (and this was at 2600 ft elevation), it made nearly 85 bhp, and was the strongest running guzzi I have ever ridden, it wheelied very easy (roper sloppage plate installed) and got better mileage as well. Louie knows the guzzi's well, and really dialed it in. It still shows a dip, but it was so strong, you never noticed anything but horsepower and torque

     

     

    That looks really good.Is that with a K&N filter or stock paper filter?

  3. Thank you Greg Field for the info in this thread.

     

    I must try the Mistral x over now because I seem to have very much the same preferences and ride mostly in traffic like you.I've got the later model too with the joining front pipe,and the Phil A airbox mods,so results should be similar with a new map for the ECU.

    I rarely rev higher than say 5000 rpm anyway because there is a turn comming up or a damned car or something.

  4. Hi Gelos.

    Thanks for the charts.

    That is some good numbers you got! Maybe it's not at the rear wheel?

    In any case it's good info to see the curves compared to each other.

    You have the 2002LeMans and I have a LeMans from 2005 with the balance pipe between the headers,otherwise we seem to have about the same tuning.I also have ported heads,higher compression,twin spark.Work done by Dynotec in Germany.

     

    I should say that I usually ride in traffic to and from work and I'm looking for good torque and throttle response from 2500-5000 rpm for most of the time.

     

    When reading about and comparing what v11 owners with Mistral I think it may be a difference with that balance pipe when using Mistral crossover.I think that's maybe atleast part of the reason why Greg Field got as good results as he did here:

    http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11564&hl=%2Btale+%2Bcrossovers

     

    I might try the Mistral xover anyway..

  5. OK,I know this sounds stupid but I'm going to ask anyway..

    Is it possible by mapping/tuning to get the same throttle response from a Stucchi xover as a Mistral xover?

     

    The reason why I ask is because I have a Stucchi xover-mistral silencers on my v11 and i'm going to get a custome map for it.

    I'm thinking of buying a full system from MASS

    http://www.massmoto.com/en/moto-guzzi-2/v11-sport.html#1

    but ask them to make it the same size as Staintune all the way through.(It's not as expensive as it may sound 600 EURO)

    Or simply buy a Mistral xover to get better throttle response and a little bit more torque at the sam time ,around 3000-5000 rpm.

     

    I had an1100sport ie with Stucchi xover and mistral silencers and a good PC III map.That set up was far from the same throttle response as a full Staintune exhaust I put on later on.

    So,I thought,as Staintune is1mm thinner than stock ID ,which would keep the speed up on the exhausts,(i would think) and give instant throttle response,i thought it would be the same for a Mistral xover (which also is thinner than stock)and Mistral mufflers.

    Greg Field's post here:

    http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11564&hl=%2Btale+%2Bcrossovers

     

    I should say also that Staintune doesn't make those full systems for 1100sport anymore,if they would I would buy one right away.But now maybe MASS can make one instead.

     

    What do you think?

    Keep the Stucchi/Mistral?

    or swap the Stucchi for Mistral xover?

    or get the MASS system?

  6. Thanks Hansson ,I had the gearbox switched for a Centauro by them a few years ago on my 1100sport.They are great guys.Good to know they also tune the engines.I will maybe contact them ,but first I'll ask RG Engineering in Falkenberg and see what he sais,or ofcourse the best place in Sweden IMO,Biscaya motor as they are nearer.Lots of options then.Great!

     

    Thank you Docc and Hansson.

  7. I recently had my 2005 LeMans tuned by Dynotec with higher comp,tuned camshaft,twin spark and so on.He modified the ECU to make it as good as possible (not 100%)as he only could go by what usually work with the Stucchi xover,modified airbox and Mistral exhausts.

    It runs well right now but I think I could get more out of it as a map of a Dynorun I did showed it was a bit lean from 3000- 5000,especially on part throttle.

     

    I'm thinking of taking it to a shop with a Dyno and finetune it.

     

    Can I use a PC III powercommander,or can I have the ECU reflashed ?

    Of what I've heard the Lambda sensor makes it harder to use a PC III.

    Help apreciated.

  8. OK .The problem is now solved.

    One of the cam followers (inlet on right side) was grinded down 5 mm !!! The camshaft was damaged (scratches).

    So,as the camshaft was being removed and the heads were being inspected,instead of installing the same original parts I had the workshop in Sweden sent the camshaft,cylinders,heads,pistons and ECU to Dynotec in Germany.

    They are specialised at this problem,and has a camshaft kit for just about every MG model.Besides ,I had thought alot about doing this restoration on my old 1100 sport because of the increased engine life and increased torque ,but never got round to it.

    Jens Hoffmann at Dynotec told me I was very lucky there wasn't more damage than there was,like the valve breaking.That would be very expensive.

     

    The shop who had the bike installed the modified heads(new stronger springs,ported heads with higher compression and twinspark,stronger valves,and grinded camshaft to give more torque,and ajusted ECU for the new specs)

     

    It got abit expensive but now it runs like a dream!!!

    Totally different when I ride during subtile throttle movements for example.No hesitation what ever I do with the throttle.Pulls like a train from 3000 rpm.Rock steady idle.

    If you think it's worth the money I would recommed it.

    Here's a link:

    http://www.dynotec.de/

    I got the 7902 camshaftkit.

    • Like 2
  9. Anders

     

    I won't discourage you, but I suppose it might be a bent valve that remains open 5 mm. That can either be caused by charcoal in the valve guide or by a too tight valve guide play. In that case the valve sticks in the guide and the piston on his way up the bore hits the valve. 

     

    If you are lucky it is a shrinked pushrod as mentioned above. remove the rocker and pull the pushrod. In case of a shrinking you can observe an aluminium rollover at the connection to the steel end caps. You can remove the other pusrod too to compare the length. In that case replacing the pushrod is a cheap repair. 

    Thanks.I talked to the workshop on the phone today,that has the bike at the moment,he said everything in the head including pushrods are OK.He said it can only be in the engine,(camshaft?)and that he will disassemble and have a look when it's time.He was already full when I had it toed to the shop.

  10. Assuming 5mm is a misinterpretation it may be lifter/ lobe failure.

    Ciao

    Aha,thanks good to know.

     

     

     

    Hoping for the above but it could also be a bad pushrod. I've seen a 2005 Cafe Sport once with similar clearances

    Oh,the guy looking at it at the workshop told me the pushrod was OK too,I forgot to mention that.Do you know what could have caused those bad clearances on that bike you saw?
    From what I remember it was a case of an extremely worn pushrod. So it must have been a production problem. The bike was almost new

     

    OK,could perhaps be cam lobe faliure then.

     

    If you suspect it is a cam lobe failure , get a dial indicator and set it up to check the lift of the cam lobe . Check both sides and compare what you find . They should be within 0.005" .

    Great! I'll talk to the mechanic at the workshop about it.

     

    I'm really apretiate your help guys!

  11. If the valve adjustment "loosened" the valve would not reach further into the cylinder, but simply would not open.

     

    5 mm into the cylinder, (I would think) would put the valve into the piston (very bad).

     

    It really sounds like the adjusting lock nut came loose (noisy, but no real damage).

     

    Just a valve adjustment - no engine tear down.

     

    You can remove both valve covers and see how much of the adjusting screw is exposed above the rocker arm on the other side . If they are close or the same after adjusting , you are o.k.

    Big thanks once again for your input guys!!

    I will look into it.I really hope it's just a valve adjustment.

  12. Thanks for the input guys! I think the valve must have been loose reaching 5mm further into the cylinder.And yes,I'm sure he said 5mm.I only talked to the guy at the workshop on a cellphone when he explained it.The bike had a steady idle when I last had the engine running.Also when I was leaning a bit in the turn going into the gas station there was a rattle(of loose parts) and then the ding ding ding sound,all in the same pitch,sounding like it was the same parts making the sound all the time.

     

    I have contacted the seller,waiting for an answer.

     

    It seems like the damage isn't that big then ,as the idle was steady,and it was running OK except for the sound.

     

    I wonder though,how the hell could it even come loose? Maybe the spring broke and/or the lock nut?

    In any case ,it seems like the damage is all in the head,and no need to take the whole engine out.Right?

    I'll talk to some guys at a workshop nearer home that I usually go to,and see what they say.

    • Like 1
  13. I just bought a 2005 V11 LeMans from a private seller here in Sweden.I took it for a 10 minutes test ride,everything was great.Then on my way home after about 50Km I stopped for gas.This was the first time I could hear anything because of thundering headwind.I heard a banging noice ,like when you drive a nail into concrete.Not good,so I stopped and had it brought  to a workshop.When he looked at it there was nothing wrong with the other valve clearances exept for the right hand inlet valve that was off by 5mm! So what I heard must have been the valve banging on the piston.

    Has this happened to anyone of you?

    The guy at the workshop only had time to have a quick look for now and it will be weeks before he has time to really dig in,so I'm asking you guys,what could have caused this?

    He said the push rod was fine by the way.

    Help and input appreciated.

  14. I'm looking for 12V Battery driven,heated undervest or gament.

    It's to be used as undergarment for diving actually.But I thought I would take a longshot and try here.

    I know BMW makes this vest:

    http://showroom.bmw-motorrad.com/Wind-Weather/HeatUp-Vest.-psc-200004341-jfigMkqloeEAAAE0uNJtTecS-UXCOM-WFS-en_US-EUR.html;sid=N2g6R9-ByiwkR4szmrQRHe0h9jlRORYSAfU=

    But the thing I'm really looking for is a fullsuit undergament -thing.

     

    I only found these apart from the BMW Vest:

     

    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/41570/i/tour-master-synergy-2-0-heated-pants-liner

     

    Has anyone tried anything like this?

     

  15. The way I grease the front zerk is to take a needle zerk push into the the intended spot without being attached to your grease gun. Then when the needle is in position hook up your grease gun and Bob's your uncle!

    Roy's system is probably a better way but if you haven't had the wheel off for a while (or don't want to take off your wheel) my way is a quick fix.

    That's roughly the way I use to do it too.A good set of plyers will help putting it in place/loosen it when your hands are too big.

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