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raceboy

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Everything posted by raceboy

  1. Thanks folks for your replies. GuzziMoto can you pass along the details of your Penske shock. Cheers, Raceboy
  2. Hi all, I'm trying to locate a (Preferably New) Ohlins shock for my 04 V11. Any one have any ideas or know where I can get one. The Sachs (Sucks); it's toast. Pref in North America for ease of shipping. Cheers,
  3. What are the part numbers for the CRG long and short levers?? I would agree with Greg on not having a shorty lever on the clutch side. I've ridden bikes with both and prefer the long one on the clutch side, I could live with either one on the brake side. Cheers all, Raceboy
  4. 'Taranta' Raceboy will check them out. They are not that far from me 20 or 25km. When I get something or anything interesting I'll report back. Raceboy
  5. Hello all, I've been considering wheels for my V11 for a few weeks now, One option I was considering is the PVM wheels. But any chance to save a few dollars and still get a decent product (yet to proved it seems) is always welcome. I live in Toronto Ontario and was considering donating my bike to science by taking the 4.5 ride to MI, but having read the last thread that production is based in Ontario (Canada I assume), if anyone can get an address / location / company name somehow I'll personally go and check it out and let the fourm members know what is what. Cheers, Raceboy
  6. Congratualtions to all involved, great to see Guzzi taking and holding records. Raceboy
  7. QuatroV the bike looks amazing. My curiosity and scheming mind is working overtime..... A few questions for QuatroValvole or anyone else who has made the conversion on MGS 01 for the street. Can you give us some idea what it's like living with the MGS 01 on the street; how well is the ecu programing done for low/slow speed riding around the city with traffic? Is engine cooling adequete for the street? You or someone mentioned in one of the posts that the alternator was a little undersized for running the required lights for the street, did you change or upgrade it? I'm also guessing the battery is quite small, did you change it? Realizing that it is a track bike, how comfortable is the seating position for blasting around city streets? Gas milage?? Keep the shinny side up, Raceboy
  8. Well folks, I seem to have fixed the problem, buy not really doing much. Tracking the circuit in question with help of an electrical schematic I found on 'This Old Tractor' site. I removed the tank and seat, I proceeded to isolate everything in the circuit; brake swithes, horns, headlight and the left hand control module on the clip-on. Looking at the wiring bundle just under the tank, at the front of the bike (left side) made me think. The wiring is held in place with 2 or 3 wire ties to the left side down-tube and were cinched quite tight. I cut the ties, completely freed the wiring and moved the wiring around. I put in a new fuse and turned the key to on, fuse DIDN'T blow. One by one I started connecting everything that I disconnected while the key was still on and checking the fuse. The only thing I can figure is under the sungged wire ties is where the problem lies. I put on a few new wire ties and put the bike back together and went out for 1/2 hr ride with no ill effects. During the winter I will open up that part of the harness and see if there is any half broken wires or missing insulation. Not sure how to explain what happened but it's fixed now. Keep the shinny side up Raceboy
  9. I assume it's the front brakes that are giving the problems. Check the discs for warpage, possibly caused by overheating. A good way to tell is look for any discolourations (blueing). More accurate method is using a dial gauge to check for Flatness....is that a word?? Also check to make sure the caliper and disk fasteners are tightened to the appropiate torque specs. Hope that helps a bit. Raceboy
  10. Good Days fellow Guzzists, The 15Amp fuse for the headlight and brake lights keeps blowing, just started a few days ago. Just wondering if this maybe a common V11 problem, anyone else have the same issue? If not I'll just start the process of tracking it down. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I hate electical GREMLINS......... ...........bad little electrons going down the wrong path. Cheers, Raceboy (John) Edit: forgot to mention the tach also is not taching very well........uhmmm no needle movement from the tach.
  11. Absolutely nothing, I like the minimalist look to the bike, very cafe racer looking of yesteryear. Raceboy
  12. Yeah! That would be a good thing don't you think. I'm game to have a serious go at this if I can get some tech help from the more seasoned Guzzi veterans. The motor is coming out and completly torn down this winter, plans have been made. God I love spending money I don't have. Cheers, Raceboy
  13. raceboy

    The MyECU thread

    Can the MyECU handle 2 WB sensors?? Raceboy
  14. Bike looks great. Are you running 1 or 2 - O2 sensors...one in each pipe?? If not, why not? Can it be done? I'm gearing up to get an ECU kit from Cliff so inquiring minds need to know Raceboy
  15. Has anyone ever tried to Dry Sump a V11 or any other Guzzi?? Thoughts, ideas, critique or just kick to the ground..... Raceboy
  16. raceboy

    The MyECU thread

    Howdy, Great Idea to have this thread. I'm just in the process of getting my kit for both the ECU and Optimizer. I have be in contact with Cliff through emails and will be putting my order in shortly. My question for this thread is regarding the enclosure or case. I don't want to rip apart my stock ECU to fit the new one into it. I'm wondering if anyone here has found a suitable little case to mount the electronics into it?? Also the connector(s) required?? Cheers, John (Raceboy)
  17. Bob, Penske told me that the 2 models available are the 8983 for $855.00 or the 8987 for $1195.00. Don't know if V11 will be able to work with a 'Piggy Back' style, I think we need to have remote reservoir. John
  18. The prices for the Elka are in Canadian $$$$$. There are a number of Canadian Pro racers using the Elka and seem to be happy with the performance. I checked the YSS website, couldn't find anything for the V11. Penske tells me they have two lenghts available for the V11. Which one is the correct lenght????????? I also heard that a European Guzzi dealer bought up all the remaining Ohlins shocks and parts for the V11 about 3 or 4 yrs ago. Don't know what dealer it was. If anyone knows, please post on here. Happy Trails, Johnny
  19. Hello fellow Guzzists, After a 4 day BLITZ of calling every contact I know both in Canada and the U.S. I've come up rather empty and disappointed with the news. Ohlins has stopped producing aftermarket rear shocks for the V11 (and possible other older models). This happend about 3 or 4 years ago. I don't know about front forks, I'll inquire later. The stock shock I have is a Sachs and there does not seem to be a rebuilt kit available from Moto Guzzi or rebuild shops. So it seems the current crop of available performance shocks are Wilbers from Germany, Hagon from Europe (I think U.K.) Bitubo from Italy which is a basic shock and Penske in the U.S. I'm sure there may be 1 or 2 more. If any of info is incorrect please jump in and correct me. I think it's important that we stick together and help each other out in these trying and difficult times....therefore...... I talked Elka suspension (Quebec, Canada) and they have indicated to me that they would be willing to make a shock for the V11 if I can get 10 or more interested in a group purchase (one time). This will be a fully adjustable race level shock. I would be willing to donate my bike to Elka for fitting the shock and testing. For all those that are interested contact me or I'll contact you via the V11 direct email. I'll get accuate pricing once I get a number of interested parties, of course the more people the cheaper it will be. The general pricing I was quoted is from 900 to 1200 this depends on option chosen...2-way, 3-way, and with or without remote Hydraulic preload adjuster. Billet machined, fully adjustable and rebuildable. Check out the web site at ............. http://www.elkasuspension.com pdf brochure to big to load up here. Stand up and be counted.... Cheers all, John
  20. Good Idea. I will try and get some pics posted and if there is an interest with a fellow guzzist I will trade. Give me a few days. Raceboy
  21. I found the adjuster, it is held by a locking spring clip (underside of lever) which I removed, made the adjustment but could not fit the spring locking clip. The adjustment I made is beyond the notch in the adjustment screw to be able to accept the locking spring. I'll find another method of securing the adjuster screw. Nevertheless I will still do the fluid change over the next week or so. Greg I'm looking forward to reading your method for doing the fluid change. Raceboy
  22. Daniel Thanks, I'm getting ready for a ride so I'll have a quick look. I'll bring a tool with me if I have the adjuster screw on my bike. I will report later the results Cheers, John (Raceboy)
  23. Thanks Where can I buy the Wilbers shock?? I'm about 165lbs, I think the front is ok, of course I'll know better once I have a working rear damper on the bike. Raceboy.
  24. Well race fans, it's been six weeks of V11 blissful ownership and the problems keep on coming. From the first ride I knew the suspension was not set up correctly...not even close. The bike also needed new tires, so my thinking was don't worry about the suspension just ride and enjoy do the suspension set-up when I get new tires on the bike. Well this past Saturday I mounted tires (Metzlers M1) and proceeded to attempt suspension set up.............Much to my dismay the rear shock is SHOT, GONE, DONE-FOR, NIX, DEEP-SIX IT!! Leaking fluid, the adjustments have no effect. Now I understand why the bike rides the way it does. So. What options do I have????? Rebuild stock shock........Who can do rebuilds??? It is not an Ohlins shock. Can I buy an Ohlins shock??? Next problem. The clutch has started to act funny when the bike gets warmed up, about 20 min riding. The clutch begins to be very Grabby making shifting clunky (especially at stop lights), the clutch does not fully disengage, as soon as the clutch lever is just slightly released the clutch is almost fully engaged. Any thoughts or ideas. I will flush out the old brake fluid and put in new Dot 4. Sorry for the wordiness of this post. Not much riding time left, I'm looking forward to being able to carve a few corners before the snow flies. Cheers folks, Raceboy
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