RHIP

I've also got my '94 Miata (owned since new), but that's not for sale.

@fotoguzzi, are you still looking? I'm about 95 miles south, in New Ulm, and have been thinking about selling my 2001 Rosso Mandello. I'm the second owner, 17K, factory bags and tankbag, Teo Lamers centerstand. I'm just about to order a new rear tire for it. I love the bike, but I'm turning 70 this year, and maybe the riding position is getting to be a bit too much. On the other hand, when I had it out yesterday it was such a joy.

I'm also in Minnesota, and have a 2001 Rosso Mandello. I haven't ridden the 1200 Sport, but owned a 2013 Stelvio. The Stelvio was full of quality stuff, but just too heavy for my taste. All of the comments are probably right on - the V11 is rorty fun....you've got the BMW for sane riding, so I'd suggest the V11. Try to make sure it's sorted out - but I think more than any bike I know, the build quality varies tremendously on these, and it may just be the luck of the draw. I've had no problems at all with mine over 8 years of ownership, except the waiving speedometer needle. I think almost every Minnesotan with a V11 Sport must have responded to your post. Wheere do you guys go for service? I've always used Ron at Judson Cycle (great guy and excellent mechanic), but he's cutting his hours.

Great story. When I saw this bike revealed at the bike show, I thought "At last, Guzzi has a winner!" But, as always, no bikes have been released. As is so often the case, the company is just a year or two behind everyone else when a new design is first unveiled - and by the time production starts, 4-5 years later, the rest of the industry has blown past it. I still think this will be a very nice bike, but that 80-85 horsepower is rated in Italian ponies, which are always optimistic, and when its finally put on a dyno, I think it will more likely be 70-72 HP at the rear wheel, which is still a whole lot better than the V7. It's hard to believe my 1973 V7 Sport was rated at 70, would comfortably pass the Ton, and would eat an R80 BMW for breakfast. Progress?

I'll be there, but not on my Rosso - 1200 miles is too far when I'm on a limited schedule and need 4 500 mile days. Will try my 2016 Street Twin - no RT, but it's still two wheels.

I haven't tried the new Roadsmart, but I always had the last version on, and its a good tire. My buddy with an XR 1200 has gotten 12K on the rear and 17K on the front (my mileage was about half that). I just switched to Pilot Road 4's, and they have transformed the bike. Smooth, comfortable, solid in the corners and have added a precision to the handling that I didn't know was possible. I can't recommend these enough.

I'm not sure how we got from a Scot's knee pain to what's naked and what isn't, but that's the joy of this forum. Docc, you got me on the label - mea culpa! I did learn something else - all of the later models forks must be the type used on the LeMans - the ad shows enough room above the top yoke to mount the clipons. My Rosso's tubes are flush with the top, so the bars go under - but with the dogleg design, I think the height is about the same as on a LeMans...and I bet someone out there has measured it!

Docc, you have described the three alternatives much more accurately than me. I don't want to split hairs, esp curly ones, but what makes the last four models "nakeds" when an original V11 Sport had no wind protection at all, not even the bikini fairing on my Rosso? The Cafe Sport has essentially the same fairing as on my RM. I can assure you, that when the weather gets foul, except for the folks on a LeMans, we are all riding naked.

Sending them a report that they are showing a Sport instead of a Naked. I'd say both the original Sport and the other versions with a regular bar are "nakeds" - but you obviously have a point in that the relationship to where our hands go is very different on those two machines. I think that the clipons on the LeMans are also slightly higher than on my RM. This site is interesting, and would allow comparisons of the ergonomic measurements between bikes, but comfort is in the posterior of the sitter, so there is no substitute for actually riding the beast.

I put the 30 mm Varios on my Rosso Mandello. They do help, and can be rotated forward or back. It does mess up the relationship with the shift and brake levers - you eventually adapt, but it takes a while (if anyone can tell me how to adjust them for this setup, please do so! ). I tried using my Airhawk pad to get a bit more room, and to make the seat more comfortable - it does both, but then I find the reach down to the bars becomes more extreme - on longer rides, I usually prefer having the bars higher up than saving my bum. After about 200 miles, I am stopping every 60-100 miles to get off and stretch, which really eats into the miles you can cover in a day. Whatever you do, before you leave on that length of trip, I'd make sure you are comfortable. I'm surprised that the Triumph bothered you, but not the Ducati, which has much sportier ergos - maybe you need your Guzzi's pegs farther back, if the setup on the Duck works. And hey, taking that Ducati through the Alps wouldn't be too shabby if you can't get the Sport sorted.

At around 70, it begins to dance, gets worse as the speed increased. During a particularly spirited run, I glanced down and saw it was pegged at 160 (I wish). It did come back to reality once I dropped down to about 80, but this condition is gradually getting worse. I hav the original cable in, about 14K on the bike - is this a cable issue, something with the drive, or the instrument itself? Any point in replacing the cable? Thanks!

What, I can't say "@#$$#!" on this forum? If it bleeps it again, that would be 'Richard".

That's @#$$#! Cooter's bike, at a First Thursday I must have missed. He had it dyno'd with a Power Commander, and eventually got some decent HP produced.

I've found that using an Airhawk helps a bit - improves the seat, and a bit more room to the pegs. With the stock setup, I have no problem with the bars at all, but my knees also ache. I dropped my pegs 30mm, which helps, but is still not ideal. I have found that just raising the seat height exacerbates the lean to the bars, and diminishes that feeling of being one with the bike. Keep trying - it's worth it! All the comments on your weight and condition are legit, but what do these guys know unless they are MD's who have examined you? Hey, posting kitty photos always helps - as long as you don't plan to sit on her!

I have a problem getting the seat on my Rosso to lock. I can get it to click into place, but in moments it pops up again. Is here some way to adjust he cam on the lock to make sure it is seating against the pin on the bottom of the seat? Even when closed, the cam has a pretty large gap. Thanks!

GuzziMoto is right - I decided to go for the FMJ Odyssey, which is just that much larger in all dimensions to not fit. Finally got the seat on, but it's not proper, so I'll take the battery out and start all over again.

Did the tray drop, got the seat back on, and the first time I accellerated through the gears it began shorting out. I got home, and realized that I hadn't tightened the two rear nuts for the tray. Got those snugged up, zip-tied some rubber where the positive terminal hit the frame, but having problems getting it to fit. I'll work on it again when my frustration level drops a bit. There appears to be NO WAY the strap will stretch enough to fit with an Odyssey - it should be locked in place, as tight as the fit is - are others running woithout it? Also, I substituted M6 bolts for the stock Allen head ones supplied with the battery. There appears to be no way to get a regular hex-head key in the limited area available to tighten them up, and they are fractionally taller than the stock terminals. The Odyssey is a good battery, but it doesn't turn me into Val Rossi, or my Rosso into a superbike. For anyone needing a new battery, buy the smallest that fits and get on with riding. I would never do this again.

DOCC - Thank you for the photo and suggestion! I will try it as soon as I can, and hope it drops it enough to clear the seat.

Dale, I think I should have gone with your recommendation. I got the Odyssey instead, full metal jacket, and now I can't get the seat to fit. It sure does start the beast right up, but now I have to figure out how to make this work. I'll search the site because I think others have had the same problem. And whoever designed the layout for this battery....if you have ever replaced a simple, upright unit in another bike, you can appreciate what a PITA this swap was.

Need to replace mine - looking at the Westco 12V13L or the Odyssey PC545. Any suggestions? Other options? Thanks!

FG, as a fellow-Minnesotan, of course you are right. But better than messing with the porkchop, I think someone with the right program could cut some lower aluminum mounting brackets that, properly designed, would keep your feet in where they should be. This system is a tradeoff, but for the miles spent with some relief from the too-high stock position, the minor annoyance of tucking in my toes when I need to shift and brake is worth it.

In an effort to get the pegs on my Rosso into a more reasonable position, I bought a lowering kit from Twisted Throttle. Quality bits, they move the pegs down 20mm. This does make a huge difference on longer trips, but they are still too high to be really comfortable. They also move my boots out a bit, so that I need to "toe-in" when braking and shifting. They help more than they hurt, and I'm leaving them on. It's possible to get a 50mm lowering bracket, but it's not recommended except for rear pegs. I would be curious what it would do - with these, no difference on cornering clearance for me

I'm in the U.S., so can't help you find a bike, but (at the risk of starting a mjor flameout) I'm not so sure why the Ohlins are a big concern for you. Granted, my Rosso has the standard suspension, but, unlike a lot of bikes, I never felt going to an Ohlins setup was going to make a huge amount of difference.Whatever handling issues it has aren't due to the dampers, but to it's design, weight and distribution. That said, after some experience riding it, it is a fine handling bike. All of the tests I have ever read of any variation of the V11 with Ohlins have had some pretty negative comments on the handling, much more so that on the stock setup. I'd urge you to find a clean, well-maintained bike, and not get hung up on the gold bits. Too bad you aren't looking to buy stateside - I have seen some really fine V 11's, with thousands of dollars of goodies on them, for some very low prices. I don't want to ever sell mine!

I've got 3 bikes, and keep an Airhawk on my f650, because it is REALLY comfortable, and boosts the seat height up to where it should be for me. I use it on my V11 for any trips over 100 miles. It does help make the stock seat much more comfortable, and helps a little with the high pegs on the bike (a fix for those is, hopefully, on the way). Yeah, it looks a bit dorky, but for what it costs, and the fact that it can be switched from bike-to-bike, it makes a lot of sense. For the price, I'd try it before you pop for a custom seat. If you get one, just make sure you don't over-inflate it...the instructions get it about right, and you can fine-tune the level you want.